So there we have it:
TC can also not be switched off for a Pajero with TC
One can switch off Stability Control, but that does not limit the TC functionality
If one chooses to select 4LLc, the SC is switched off and cannot be selected - so, this is in effect the same as proposed / stated by Gerrit and 4ePajero. Mitsubishi knew what was required to overcome the challenges of sand dunes
If the dunes are "tough", one normally selects 4LLc:
This caters for loss of power concerns due to SC-initiated braking; SC is deactivated so there is no loss in engine power or braking to prevent car from sliding; (TC still functions as designed to brake the spinning wheels for transferring power to wheels with grip)
So, based on what I have learned so far, when you drive sand dunes in either 4H or 4HLc, one should preferably switch off Stability Control in order to have full engine power available. TC will however still be managing (braking) the spinning wheels ..
Traction control does work
- Chris2
- Country: South Africa
- Vehicle: Pajero 3.2 DiD SWB
Post
Re: Traction control does work
2006 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD SWB (aka Sho't Left)
Drawer System DIY
Burnco Front and Rear Bars
Hannibal Roofrack
Drawer System DIY
Burnco Front and Rear Bars
Hannibal Roofrack
- 4ePikanini
- Affiliate Member
- Contact:
- Country: South Africa
- Vehicle: 2007 Pajero LWB 3.2 Di-D GLX
- Location: East London, South Africa
Post
Re: Traction control does work
This brings up my question again. If the TC brakes a wheel but it doesn't stop immediately, there will be heat generated by the brakes. That heat is energy lost! Is the energy lost worth the traction gained?
Just a hypothetical theoretical question
Just a hypothetical theoretical question
- Chris2
- Country: South Africa
- Vehicle: Pajero 3.2 DiD SWB
Post
Re: Traction control does work
I really dont have the answer to your question, BUT, what is the use of power if it is used to spin the wheels without getting the grip you need...4ePikanini wrote:This brings up my question again. If the TC brakes a wheel but it doesn't stop immediately, there will be heat generated by the brakes. That heat is energy lost! Is the energy lost worth the traction gained?
Just a hypothetical theoretical question
2006 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD SWB (aka Sho't Left)
Drawer System DIY
Burnco Front and Rear Bars
Hannibal Roofrack
Drawer System DIY
Burnco Front and Rear Bars
Hannibal Roofrack
-
cn
Post
Hi all
Apologies if I am deviating from the topic, but I would really like to know what your experiences are of the TC and how it should / not be used when traversing mud.
How do you best deal with a lot of mud (except for avoiding it)?
Thanks!
Re: Traction control does work
Hi all
Apologies if I am deviating from the topic, but I would really like to know what your experiences are of the TC and how it should / not be used when traversing mud.
How do you best deal with a lot of mud (except for avoiding it)?
Thanks!
- 4ePajero
- Vehicle: 1989 Pajero LWB
- Location: East London
Post
Re: Traction control does work
4ePikanini wrote:This brings up my question again. If the TC brakes a wheel but it doesn't stop immediately, there will be heat generated by the brakes. That heat is energy lost! Is the energy lost worth the traction gained?
Just a hypothetical theoretical question
- It does not take much energy to stop a spinning wheel.
- while it spins, you have no traction on the other wheel(s)
- traction is everything when driving off-road, so the small loss in energy is no problem.
-
Wy
Post
Re: Traction control does work
Hi Guys
Long time since I posted here.
I am quite fortunate to have both. TC and the diff lock. I have a 2009 LWB GLS 3.2. It has an aftermarket rear diff lock(ARB). This allows me to be able to test the vehicle both with the difflock and without on, both times with TC. This I have done under numerous circumstances, mud, rock climbs, wet grass etc. I have not had extensive experience with sand yet , that will come soon though.
I must say that in hindsight unless you are going to be doing very technical rock climbs I would just have the TC. It will take you over most stuff very easily. I seldom "need" to engage the difflock to clear an obstacle. It is a different technique though, diff locked versus no diff lock. A little more (not a lot -don’t damage your vehicle by going "floor it") momentum is required with TC over particularly broken terrain, i.e. axle twisting, wheel lifting stuff. Sometimes the TC noise/sensation can be disconcerting for people who are not used to its action -- I really can suggest that owners go out and practice and get used to it.
I feel it (TC) is safer for non-technical or inexperienced off roaders. May don’t understand the mechanism or operating techniques that should be used for a diff lock. I have seen people get themselves into trouble by using a diff lock when they don’t need or should not have activated it. TC does not have that disadvantage.
Having said all of that there are situations when I love my vehicle with its combination of TC and the diff lock. Rock strewn axle twisting stuff with the diff lock engaged can be taken nice and slowly, this makes picking a line for ground clearance and under body damage avoidance easier at times. In mud I am more limited by tyres than anything else but in mud there can be an advantage by having the diff locked.
Long time since I posted here.
I am quite fortunate to have both. TC and the diff lock. I have a 2009 LWB GLS 3.2. It has an aftermarket rear diff lock(ARB). This allows me to be able to test the vehicle both with the difflock and without on, both times with TC. This I have done under numerous circumstances, mud, rock climbs, wet grass etc. I have not had extensive experience with sand yet , that will come soon though.
I must say that in hindsight unless you are going to be doing very technical rock climbs I would just have the TC. It will take you over most stuff very easily. I seldom "need" to engage the difflock to clear an obstacle. It is a different technique though, diff locked versus no diff lock. A little more (not a lot -don’t damage your vehicle by going "floor it") momentum is required with TC over particularly broken terrain, i.e. axle twisting, wheel lifting stuff. Sometimes the TC noise/sensation can be disconcerting for people who are not used to its action -- I really can suggest that owners go out and practice and get used to it.
I feel it (TC) is safer for non-technical or inexperienced off roaders. May don’t understand the mechanism or operating techniques that should be used for a diff lock. I have seen people get themselves into trouble by using a diff lock when they don’t need or should not have activated it. TC does not have that disadvantage.
Having said all of that there are situations when I love my vehicle with its combination of TC and the diff lock. Rock strewn axle twisting stuff with the diff lock engaged can be taken nice and slowly, this makes picking a line for ground clearance and under body damage avoidance easier at times. In mud I am more limited by tyres than anything else but in mud there can be an advantage by having the diff locked.
- 4ePajero
- Vehicle: 1989 Pajero LWB
- Location: East London
Post
Re: Traction control does work
One of the major advantages of TC over locked axles, is that you are unlikely to break either a CV or a side shaft when using TC.
Said breakages are real concerns when using locked axles. The breakage happens when a (locked) wheel is spinning in the air (with no traction) and then suddenly lands on the ground with full traction - "snap" !
Said breakages are real concerns when using locked axles. The breakage happens when a (locked) wheel is spinning in the air (with no traction) and then suddenly lands on the ground with full traction - "snap" !
- SimonB
- Site Admin
- Country: United Kingdom
- Vehicle: 2017 Nissan X-Trail
- Location: Southampton, United Kingdom
Post
Re: Traction control does work
But not on live axles though...4ePajero wrote:One of the major advantages of TC over locked axles, is that you are unlikely to break either a CV or a side shaft when using TC.
Said breakages are real concerns when using locked axles. The breakage happens when a (locked) wheel is spinning in the air (with no traction) and then suddenly lands on the ground with full traction - "snap" !
Simon Bloomer
- 4ePikanini
- Affiliate Member
- Contact:
- Country: South Africa
- Vehicle: 2007 Pajero LWB 3.2 Di-D GLX
- Location: East London, South Africa
Post
Re: Traction control does work
I snapped the spider gears (Mazda 2.5TD) on a bad gravel road that way. Uphill, giving gas, jump in the air, bite on the ground, snap!SimonB wrote:But not on live axles though...4ePajero wrote:One of the major advantages of TC over locked axles, is that you are unlikely to break either a CV or a side shaft when using TC.
Said breakages are real concerns when using locked axles. The breakage happens when a (locked) wheel is spinning in the air 9with no traction) and then suddenly lands on the ground with full traction - "snap" !
- 4ePajero
- Vehicle: 1989 Pajero LWB
- Location: East London
Post
If a spinning wheel is in the air and then falls to the ground (regardless of axle type), watch out!
Re: Traction control does work
Any locked axle - solid, independantly sprung, portal, you name it!SimonB wrote:But not on live axles though...4ePajero wrote:One of the major advantages of TC over locked axles, is that you are unlikely to break either a CV or a side shaft when using TC.
Said breakages are real concerns when using locked axles. The breakage happens when a (locked) wheel is spinning in the air (with no traction) and then suddenly lands on the ground with full traction - "snap" !
If a spinning wheel is in the air and then falls to the ground (regardless of axle type), watch out!