Hi all, I am a Pajero newby, having bought a 2009 LWB (BK) from an immigrating friend.
I am in the market to find a long-range fuel tank, but have received different views:
1. Place it in the spacing in the back, where the extra folds under the floor.
Uses a manually operated pump, to fill the main tank from the additional. Have been
warned that my car will smell of fuel, but have been driving in one the same, and there
is no smells. The only thing I don't like is that it has its own/separate fuel cap, located in
the loading area. This means you must always keep this spot OPEN to allow adding fuel.
Why can't it be fed from the main fuel fill-up pipe, when main is full and overflows into
the reserve?
2. Seems a secret, as none of the suppliers can tell me where exactly one will hang
on the belly. this method will as I understand connect the two tanks, and both empty
at the same time.
option-1 is > 1/2 cheaper than option-2 (from the different suppliers that could quote me.
Any guidance on this please !
Long-range Fuel tank placement
- Charlie67
- Country: South Africa
- Vehicle: 2009 Pajero diesel (BK)
- cloyd
- Vehicle: Pajero GLS
Post
Re: Long-range Fuel tank placement
Charlie,
I have installed an extra 100 lit stainless steel tank in the rear space and it works perfectly. It fills from the normal filler, You can decide if you want to fill it or not. It has it's own pump and filter (pump can be used as a reserve if the main pump should break), plus it's own contents gauge and ON/OFF switch. It feeds directly into the main tank and you can refuel whilst driving. If the main tank is full and you have forgotten to switch it off, the excess fuel will drain back into the extra tank.
Cloyd
I have installed an extra 100 lit stainless steel tank in the rear space and it works perfectly. It fills from the normal filler, You can decide if you want to fill it or not. It has it's own pump and filter (pump can be used as a reserve if the main pump should break), plus it's own contents gauge and ON/OFF switch. It feeds directly into the main tank and you can refuel whilst driving. If the main tank is full and you have forgotten to switch it off, the excess fuel will drain back into the extra tank.
Cloyd
- Charlie67
- Country: South Africa
- Vehicle: 2009 Pajero diesel (BK)
Post
Re: Long-range Fuel tank placement
Hi Cloyd,
Oh nice, exactly how I thought it should work. Who dis the work for you, and when ?
Oh nice, exactly how I thought it should work. Who dis the work for you, and when ?
2009 Pajero LWB (Gen-4 BK) 220,000km
No Risk, No Fun !
No Risk, No Fun !
- cloyd
- Vehicle: Pajero GLS
Post
Re: Long-range Fuel tank placement
Charlie,
Long story. I planned and bought the stainless steel (2mm). I took it to my friend's workshop where I marked it and cut it to size.
He then cut the stainless with me assisting and then from there to another friend in the same complex to do the welding. From thee to my house where I tested it for any leaks as well as for a test installation.
The filler took some time. First the planning, then I bought a used filler pipe. At home I then did the detail planning, cutting and test fitment. From here back to the welder for his magic and then back home for final fitment.
The filer and pump was easy. Some planning, to the shops (Diesel Electric) for the pump and then tp Action Spares for the filter, pipe and clamps. At home the final test fitment and installation.
The On/Off switch and fuel gauge unit I also bought from them. Power for the pump, gauge and switch was drawn from the fuse box. Easy.
I also made a cover for the tank as it is protruding slightly above the metal surrounding the seat stowage opening. If I should do it again, I shall change the shape of the tank slightly for a better fit below the standard Pajero cover.
Cloyd
Long story. I planned and bought the stainless steel (2mm). I took it to my friend's workshop where I marked it and cut it to size.
He then cut the stainless with me assisting and then from there to another friend in the same complex to do the welding. From thee to my house where I tested it for any leaks as well as for a test installation.
The filler took some time. First the planning, then I bought a used filler pipe. At home I then did the detail planning, cutting and test fitment. From here back to the welder for his magic and then back home for final fitment.
The filer and pump was easy. Some planning, to the shops (Diesel Electric) for the pump and then tp Action Spares for the filter, pipe and clamps. At home the final test fitment and installation.
The On/Off switch and fuel gauge unit I also bought from them. Power for the pump, gauge and switch was drawn from the fuse box. Easy.
I also made a cover for the tank as it is protruding slightly above the metal surrounding the seat stowage opening. If I should do it again, I shall change the shape of the tank slightly for a better fit below the standard Pajero cover.
Cloyd
- cloyd
- Vehicle: Pajero GLS
Post
Re: Long-range Fuel tank placement
Charlie,
Errata, after I marked and cut it, my friend BEND it for me (not cut).
Cloyd
Errata, after I marked and cut it, my friend BEND it for me (not cut).
Cloyd
- DandB
- Country: RSA
- Vehicle: Pajero 3.2D
Post
Re: Long-range Fuel tank placement
Hi Guys,
Long story, but on lock-down who cares!!!
I started off with an Addis Jerry can in the 6th & 7th seat well, Neat but only 28lit max and then it leaked so scrapped that plan.
After many hours looking at the underside of out '10 LWB I decided that I didn't want to prejudice ground clearance and / or risk puncturing an underbody mounted tank I pursued the 6th & 7th seat well. Underbody offerings were not very big & what I thought were very expensive - close to R10k for less than 50 lit extra.
By removing all of the Mitsu plastic in the 6th & 7th seat well close on 80 lit is possible.
A simple trapezoid shape would yield about 80 lit. I had a couple of quotes at about R6k for the fabrication, but still I think it was a bit expensive for the odd trip.
Then I discovered the Pioneer Plastics basic 60lit rectangular tank, R1450 @ Makro. Not quite the best use of the 6th & 7th seat well but on a price / performance basis a good option.
It fills through a screw-on lid which I access through the foldup floor panel and then it pumps to the main tank as needed.
Costs: Tank - R1450 (Makro), pump R300 (Takealot.com), Piping R140 (Midas), plus 2 tins of PU foam to fill the gaps between the tank and the well.
Now that I know it works, I intend to finish the prototype by:
Adding either another pump to fill OR a valve that will either empty or fill using only one pump.
I might add a contents gauge, but it would add more wiring for very little benefit.
Hope this helps
Dave
Long story, but on lock-down who cares!!!
I started off with an Addis Jerry can in the 6th & 7th seat well, Neat but only 28lit max and then it leaked so scrapped that plan.
After many hours looking at the underside of out '10 LWB I decided that I didn't want to prejudice ground clearance and / or risk puncturing an underbody mounted tank I pursued the 6th & 7th seat well. Underbody offerings were not very big & what I thought were very expensive - close to R10k for less than 50 lit extra.
By removing all of the Mitsu plastic in the 6th & 7th seat well close on 80 lit is possible.
A simple trapezoid shape would yield about 80 lit. I had a couple of quotes at about R6k for the fabrication, but still I think it was a bit expensive for the odd trip.
Then I discovered the Pioneer Plastics basic 60lit rectangular tank, R1450 @ Makro. Not quite the best use of the 6th & 7th seat well but on a price / performance basis a good option.
It fills through a screw-on lid which I access through the foldup floor panel and then it pumps to the main tank as needed.
Costs: Tank - R1450 (Makro), pump R300 (Takealot.com), Piping R140 (Midas), plus 2 tins of PU foam to fill the gaps between the tank and the well.
Now that I know it works, I intend to finish the prototype by:
Adding either another pump to fill OR a valve that will either empty or fill using only one pump.
I might add a contents gauge, but it would add more wiring for very little benefit.
Hope this helps
Dave