[Nick Gibson]

Bear in mind that a filter has an inverse relationship with depth of filtration (micron size of particle captured) and flow rate, the better it filters the worse than the flow rate becomes. The best it will ever filter is the second just before it blocks up.

Just beware of over servicing fuel filters, it isn't necessarily better to change them every 10k km, as ideally you want them to catch as much particulate as possible; as this particulate matter is extremely detrimental to the injectors and pump.

Rather stick to the manufacturer specs of every changing 60k km and carry a spare filter in case of a dodgy load of fuel (which is probably a good thing to do even if you change them every 10k km).

See here:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php? ... stcount=20
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php? ... stcount=31


NB! EDIT:
From a discussion on the 4x4 community forum I have come to understand this is not best practice. Restriction in diesel flow is very bad for the HPFP and injector pump as the ONLY cooling they receive is from the fuel they pump. Please ignore my advise above, it may cause damage to your vehicle. Contra to my previous advice, I am changing the service intervals on my filters to every 20 000 km.

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[Nick Gibson]

Creaky front suspension:

I have had an annoying creak/click develop on the front end of my van over the last month or so when driving over kerbs/bumps and light braking.

I checked:
1. Sway-bar bushes and knuckles on the links.
2. Upper & lower ball joints to front wheels.
3. Control arm bushes, upper & Lower
4. Wheel hub bearings
5. Tie rod end inner & outer ball joints
6. Power steering rack
7. Engine and gear-box mounts
8. ARB front bumper mounting bolts.
9. Wheel nuts
10. Dry-splines on the front drive shaft & incorrectly torqued castle nut.
11. Shock strut mounting bolts & bushes, upper & lower.

Could not find the issue, all was within spec with no play what-so-ever... Refitted my LYNX bash plate and the noise was gone!

Drove for a day or two and it slowly re-appeared again, I was very frustrated at this point. I had a sneaky suspicion and I removed my bash-plate completely for a day or two. Noise gone again!
The bash-plate was the culprit, creaking against the chassis...

Upon closer inspection, I found three partially stripped M8 x 1.25mm threaded captive nuts (in the chassis) that are used to fix the bash-plate to the chassis with bolts. The thread would take just enough to hold the plate when fitting but slowly work loose again when driving, with the chassis twisting slightly over the road. It uses six M8 and two M10 bolts to fix the plate to the chassis securely.

Lynx Bash-plate

[Red Arrows show which nuts had stripped.]

I re-drilled the 3 nuts out with a 8.5mm HSS bit and re-tapped them one size up to an M10x 1.5mm thread, and also chased the relevant thread tap through all the other nuts to clean the threads up properly for good measure.

Noise gone!!

[Ritteling]

Wheel rotation, balancing and alignment.

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[CATS]

I took my 'new' gen4, Casper, on its first camping trip. Took a bit getting used to the autobox and towing coming from my old manual but after we spent some time together we started to understand each other and it went great!

Also tested the reinforced dash on a bit of gravel road and it was solid with only mild rattle on the right hand center airvent.

All in all great to get out there with my family!

CATS

[LowRange]

I took my 'new' gen4, Casper, on its first camping trip. Took a bit getting used to the autobox and towing coming from my old manual but after we spent some time together we started to understand each other and it went great!

Also tested the reinforced dash on a bit of gravel road and it was solid with only mild rattle on the right hand center airvent.

All in all great to get out there with my family!

CATS

Lekker! Have you managed to lift that sparewheel as yet?

Johan

[CATS]

Lekker! Have you managed to lift that sparewheel as yet?

Johan

For the trip I still had it at normal height but lifted the tow hitch so ended up with a rear door that I could not open. Hopefully get the template plate fitted today and then we can start taking orders . Stofpad 4x4 will be your port of call.

By the way the rear spare wheel arrangement on the gen4 Pajero, over and above the height, is really a step backwards from the gen 3 if you are contemplating to tow anything! The spare wheel garnish makes it stand out even further in the rear which sometimes lead to very little space to operate a jockey wheel when not parked in a straight line. I HATE it. Maybe one day I will remove it completely like this guy?


CATS

[jbeez]

Damaged the rear bumper a while ago. Eagerly awaiting Burnco to fit a replacement. All on track so far to have her back by the end of the week.

[RockCrawler]

Creaky front suspension:

I have had an annoying creak/click develop on the front end of my van over the last month or so when driving over kerbs/bumps and light braking.

I checked:
1. Sway-bar bushes and knuckles on the links.
2. Upper & lower ball joints to front wheels.
3. Control arm bushes, upper & Lower
4. Wheel hub bearings
5. Tie rod end inner & outer ball joints
6. Power steering rack
7. Engine and gear-box mounts
8. ARB front bumper mounting bolts.
9. Wheel nuts
10. Dry-splines on the front drive shaft & incorrectly torqued castle nut.
11. Shock strut mounting bolts & bushes, upper & lower.

Could not find the issue, all was within spec with no play what-so-ever... Refitted my LYNX bash plate and the noise was gone!

Drove for a day or two and it slowly re-appeared again, I was very frustrated at this point. I had a sneaky suspicion and I removed my bash-plate completely for a day or two. Noise gone again!
The bash-plate was the culprit, creaking against the chassis...

Upon closer inspection, I found three partially stripped M8 x 1.25mm threaded captive nuts (in the chassis) that are used to fix the bash-plate to the chassis with bolts. The thread would take just enough to hold the plate when fitting but slowly work loose again when driving, with the chassis twisting slightly over the road. It uses six M8 and two M10 bolts to fix the plate to the chassis securely.

pajero-ck-bk-bashplate.jpg

[Red Arrows show which nuts had stripped.]

I re-drilled the 3 nuts out with a 8.5mm HSS bit and re-tapped them one size up to an M10x 1.5mm thread, and also chased the relevant thread tap through all the other nuts to clean the threads up properly for good measure.

Noise gone!!

Hi Nick

I am new to the forum,

I have only had my Pajero for about a month now and I developed the same problem.

I also went through everything only to discover that it was the bash plate.

I fixed mine as well and it has now once again reappeared after my weekend away 4x4ing.

I also have one nut that I was a bit to scared to over tighten as I thought it would strip. I think I will get the guys out her to re-thread it for me too.

Thanks for the info.

[CATS]

I went to visit the Voortrekker Monument in Pretoria to show some visitors. Havent been there in many years and with the organized guide it was quite a good informative outing.

Also spotted this interesting specimen in the parking area. Obviously not a local vehicle.


CATS

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[jbeez]

Damaged the rear bumper a while ago. Eagerly awaiting Burnco to fit a replacement. All on track so far to have her back by the end of the week.

Problem now sorted. Estimate for front and bashplates is VERY acceptable.