Hi all,
Our 1998 Pajero 2.8 TDI is having the classic cold weather starting problems due to the leaking fuel pump seal. Yep, it's the 4M40 engine! Phoned the stealers in Pinetown but was not too convinced that he was quoting me on the right thing.
My understanding is that I'm after the o-rings / seals on the governor cover and the throttle shaft, am I correct?
My other question is where else to buy the seals in Durban other than the dealers?
Thanks!
Thanks for your PM, Spearo, just can't fathom out how to reply to it but I thought our findings so far would be helpful in the public forum anyway.
My hubby had long discussions with Brett (from Autozone in Dbn) who has 10 years diesel pump experience who, when quizzed, gave us a full blowup of the diesel pump and explained that the vanes on the impellor become worn at approx 200 000km, and that can cause a pressure variance that could cause the problem, but advised him to go to see Jacques from Automotive and Marine in Seaview. Brett was prepared to sell him the seal kit, but advised that he would probably wasting his money.
After much questioning etc and diagnosis by Jacques (trained by the Germans from Bosch.), he advised that before we blame the pump to do a simple test to determine the problem, this test is to disconnect the fuel supply to the pump and the return from the pump to the tank, and connect directly to a 5l container 3/4 full of diesel so as to gravity feed the pump, this will eliminate the tank pickup (which can get clogged and cause the same type of starting problem) as well as a blocked return line (which again, can cause the same problem).
Start the vehicle (might need to get a suction going first on the fuel line) and then once it has started and is running normally for a short while - then wait the 4 to 12 hours or whatever the timeframe is for your particular vehicle, then try and start it, if it starts without a problem, then this is eliminates the pump as being the problem. If not, look for seals that are sweating on the pump. If a seal is not sweating it is not leaking. If not visible, the possiblities are:
1. The return valve is stuck, and needs to be removed, cleaned and resealed.
2. The impeller vanes are worn and it needs to to be replaced.
3. The throttle piston could have worn the housing which will then need to be resleeved.
All of these need to have the pump removed to repair.
Unless the top seal is sweating (Leaking) this is not the problem.
We're in the middle of organising things to doing the abovementioned test but will let the forum know what the final outcome and costs are.
My hubby had long discussions with Brett (from Autozone in Dbn) who has 10 years diesel pump experience who, when quizzed, gave us a full blowup of the diesel pump and explained that the vanes on the impellor become worn at approx 200 000km, and that can cause a pressure variance that could cause the problem, but advised him to go to see Jacques from Automotive and Marine in Seaview. Brett was prepared to sell him the seal kit, but advised that he would probably wasting his money.
After much questioning etc and diagnosis by Jacques (trained by the Germans from Bosch.), he advised that before we blame the pump to do a simple test to determine the problem, this test is to disconnect the fuel supply to the pump and the return from the pump to the tank, and connect directly to a 5l container 3/4 full of diesel so as to gravity feed the pump, this will eliminate the tank pickup (which can get clogged and cause the same type of starting problem) as well as a blocked return line (which again, can cause the same problem).
Start the vehicle (might need to get a suction going first on the fuel line) and then once it has started and is running normally for a short while - then wait the 4 to 12 hours or whatever the timeframe is for your particular vehicle, then try and start it, if it starts without a problem, then this is eliminates the pump as being the problem. If not, look for seals that are sweating on the pump. If a seal is not sweating it is not leaking. If not visible, the possiblities are:
1. The return valve is stuck, and needs to be removed, cleaned and resealed.
2. The impeller vanes are worn and it needs to to be replaced.
3. The throttle piston could have worn the housing which will then need to be resleeved.
All of these need to have the pump removed to repair.
Unless the top seal is sweating (Leaking) this is not the problem.
We're in the middle of organising things to doing the abovementioned test but will let the forum know what the final outcome and costs are.
The leaking seals is a well documented problem on the 4m40 engines.
Your specialist could be correct, but if he is not (
), you will need the attached "how-to"
Your specialist could be correct, but if he is not (
), you will need the attached "how-to"Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Have studied this indepth! Printed out in colour and taken with to the various "experts". Jacques has agreed, should it be the fuel pump (which is most likely), that he will look at this these top seals first.
I have also had it independently confirmed by someone else whose word we trust that this guy is totally honest so won't charge us for a total overhaul when it's just a little seal!
I have also had it independently confirmed by someone else whose word we trust that this guy is totally honest so won't charge us for a total overhaul when it's just a little seal!
Affiliate Member
I would take the 200'000km vane's lifespan statement with a pinch of salt. I would believe majority of 4m40 diesel pumps would go far beyond 300'000km without funny vane wear.
Unless of course you are using paraffin (or other) contaminated diesel that compromises the lubricity of the diesel.
Unless of course you are using paraffin (or other) contaminated diesel that compromises the lubricity of the diesel.
Sorry for hijacking this topic, but I'm a bit desperate and a bit of an IT novice. I've bought my long time dream Gen 3 3.2 DiD and traded my beloved and trustworthy partner for 5 years Colt 2.8 Rodeo. The Pajero, a SWB 2001 model, had 168 000 km on the clock, a service history, although not all from the agents, and is in a fairly good condition for its yearmodel. Long story short, I had it for two months, and two days ago, no 4 piston's conrod went through the engine block whilst driving around 80km/h. 
Needless to say, no guarantees, everything is on me.
I got to get another engine. Just now I was contacted by my brother saying he can get me a 2007 3.2 DiD Triton motor with less than 50 000km on the clock, also a 4M4 engine for a very good price compared to the prices quoted to me this far. Now there is a lot of voices going up warning me that although both are 3.2 DiD 4M4 motors, there is vast differences in electronics and that it is not cost effective to try and do it. Can you give me advice on this. Is there a lot needed to be done in terms of electronics, fuelpump ect and would you so something like that if you were in my position. (short on cash)
Needless to say, no guarantees, everything is on me. I got to get another engine. Just now I was contacted by my brother saying he can get me a 2007 3.2 DiD Triton motor with less than 50 000km on the clock, also a 4M4 engine for a very good price compared to the prices quoted to me this far. Now there is a lot of voices going up warning me that although both are 3.2 DiD 4M4 motors, there is vast differences in electronics and that it is not cost effective to try and do it. Can you give me advice on this. Is there a lot needed to be done in terms of electronics, fuelpump ect and would you so something like that if you were in my position. (short on cash)