Freshman
Oil leak
Hi all,
For some time now I had an oil leak (very minimal) bugging me.
This morning I removed what seems like a heat shield/protection plate to reveal an entry behind a small "cup" seen in pic.
After I used engine cleaner to clean everything I waited a few hours and then noticed drops of oil forming in the red circles.
I also removed the small cup to see what is behind it but all looked very clean inside. There is some big flywheel plate inside the hole behind the small cup.
I take it the oil leak must be inside there somewhere and then dripping out of the small cup (which is not seal proof at all)

What is leaking?
Some input please?

PS: I took more pics which I could upload if needed
Attachments:
23102011.jpg
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Affiliate Member
Re: Oil leak
More than likely it's either the gearbox input shaft seal or the engine rear crank seal.
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Re: Oil leak
Try to get a dirt free drop of the oil. Smell it and look at it.

Generally gearbox oil will be cleaner and stinkier. Engine oil smell can be compared to dipstick smell.

Determining which oil it is will help pinpoint the leak.

The gearbox seal is slightly easier to replace but either way, the box or engine has to come out. :(
Freshman
Re: Oil leak
4ePikanini wrote:Try to get a dirt free drop of the oil. Smell it and look at it.
Generally gearbox oil will be cleaner and stinkier. Engine oil smell can be compared to dipstick smell.
Determining which oil it is will help pinpoint the leak.
The gearbox seal is slightly easier to replace but either way, the box or engine has to come out. :(
Will try that thanks.
Tell me - does the fact that it is an autobox make any diffrence. What I mean is, does an autobox only have ATF or other gearbox oil as well. The oil leaking is not ATF.

Lastly - if I can live with the oil leak for now (very little at the moment) and only have it fixed in a few months will that be a problem. I'm just very busy now and can't be without the car for long now as it sounds like a big job.
PS: I would replace both the seals anyway as I'm sure the parts are cheap compared to the labour.
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Re: Oil leak
The fact that its an auto is much better.

No clutch disc to get contaminated.

Atf will also show up red for easy identification, unless its old in which case it may go grey. Verify colour by checking the dipstick.

Verify atf oil level as well. Car warm, level ground, engine running, gearbox in park, dipstick must read on hot mark. If oil is overful and grey it may point to your leak as oil foaming out the breather.

If it's definitely engine oil it may be the rear crankseal that grooved the crank. Common issue on high mileage engines. Not critical though. A change in oil may temporarily fix it. Try delo 400 if you are not already using it.
Freshman
Re: Oil leak
I had the ATF and filter changed about 3 months ago so the ATF is still new, nice and redish.
The leaking oil is not ATF as I know the smell, colour and feel of it.
I'm only using Delo 400 yes.
I'm loosing a bit of engine oil (more than normal) so I imagine it must be due to the leak as it is not smoking.
So if it is not ATF then I guess I should just check engine oil very often and can drive it until I have time to have it done?

Glad that it doesn't seem to be crucial to do it right away.
I want the car 100% but this one will have to wait a bit.
Thanks again.
paw_by_paw
Re: Oil leak
Freshman,
My experience tell me it is the crank seal that is leaking.
I have tried to replace the seal only and it started leaking again after a while, I bought the seal as well as the aluminium housing that surrounds it at Mitsu as a unit. The seal is already fitted in it, It seemed to me that over years of heating up and cooling down the aluminum housing stretch out a bit and just that little clearance makes the seal leaking again. Unfortunnately the box has to come out for that. A biggish job for a small thing. You can check it and drive it but it will mess oil everywhere not only on your your floor but the whole car underneath will get oil splatter as well.
I found that the more you drive the more it starts leaking. So you have to attend to as soon as you can.
Freshman
Re: Oil leak
paw_by_paw wrote: I found that the more you drive the more it starts leaking. So you have to attend to as soon as you can.
To be honest I hate it if the car is not 100%.
I actually went to the Agents today (always go there on any job to get an idea of the max cost and hours).
I described the symptoms to the Mac and he said yip - Crank seal - especially when he heard it is an autobox and that it is not ATF leaking.
So he checked their systems and told me 6 hours labour to do the job. Much better than I expected.
So I might only be without a car for about 2 days, 3 max.
What I normally do now is to go to my own Mac and tell him that the Agents charges 6 hours, so then he will (have to cause he is a RMI workshop) also charge me 6 hours. It is just that his rate is much better that the Agents.
Planning to take it in next month but will order the part now already.

While I'm ordering parts (know that delivery is a problem) what other parts do I need to order for the job?
Like - what must I do while the box is out?

Cheers
Pierre
paw_by_paw
Re: Oil leak
Hi Freshman,
I don't think there is much to do unless you check the switches on the box and maybe your torque converter whilst it is out anyway.
Drain your oil in a clean container as you mentioned it is new for future use again .
Maybe just check the gearbox to engine bolts if you are still fine and the correct ones as I found out the wrong bolts were used . I always use a bit of Locktite the maintenance one (Blue) when I re-install just for security sake.
Maybe you should replace the front and rear seals on the box then you will know- not too expensive and easy to change.
One other thing check the breather pipes on the box that it is sealing properly as you do not want water in your box because the breathers are shod.
Freshman
Re: Oil leak
Thanks - will ask the Mac to check all those things out and I'll replace those gearbox seals as well - just in case.
Cheers
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