Gert
Hi Guys,
Could somebody give me some advise, I've got a 3.8V6 SWB Gen 3 2005 Paj
On 75000km's I had the lifter replaced under warranty
On 100000km's they started to get noisy again, the mechanic said that they put in 20w50 instead of the required 15w50, so we did that and it appeared to do the thing
Now on 140000km's it started again, I spoke to an other mech and he said that it has sludged up and that I must flush the engine, what I can't understand is that how it can sludge when the oil is changed every 10000 km's but I put in a bottle of wynn's engine flush,drove it for 200km's as prescribed on the flush bottle, drained the oil and replaced the oil filter, it lasted for 100km's and the noise is back
What else can I do before removing and cleaning the lifter,it's not a nice job or does anyone no of a good mech, please not a new parts fitter
Thanks
Gert,
It seems these lifters is problamatic anyway.
Guys on this forum swears by Delo 400 Caltex and it seems to work.
I also had this problem with my 3.5 and had the heads redone totally and now after start up WHOLA a noisy lifter
The shop said I must drive it for 1000 km when heads are going to re-torqued and then they will attend to the noisy lifter
Must admit not impressed though 
It seems these lifters is problamatic anyway.
Guys on this forum swears by Delo 400 Caltex and it seems to work.
I also had this problem with my 3.5 and had the heads redone totally and now after start up WHOLA a noisy lifter
The shop said I must drive it for 1000 km when heads are going to re-torqued and then they will attend to the noisy lifter
Must admit not impressed though
Thanks paw_by_paw
I managed to get hold of Freek at Mitspro, he said I must use Helix high milage 20/60.
I normally use Castrol GTX 20W50, Freek says GTX is not worth calling oil, he won't use it to oil his lawnmower wheels, so I'm draining oil this week-end and see what happens
I managed to get hold of Freek at Mitspro, he said I must use Helix high milage 20/60.
I normally use Castrol GTX 20W50, Freek says GTX is not worth calling oil, he won't use it to oil his lawnmower wheels, so I'm draining oil this week-end and see what happens
Hi Gert,
Changing the grade of oil you are using is like a doctor prescribing medicine to take away the pain but he does not look for the cause of the pain or sickness.
I can not guarantee that Delo 400 Multigrade will fix the problem but at using it will show if the lifters need to be replaced or not.
Sludge building up can contribute to lifters making a noise but warn lifters or lifters with tollerances out of spec can also be the problem.
If the noise is caused by sludge build up you must keep in mind that Delo 400 (it must be the multigrade and not one of the other Delo 400 products) will need some time to clean up the sludge. I suggest that you give the Delo 400 at least the time and distance from one oil change to the next (10 000 to 15 000km) to clean up the sludge and see if it is better with the next oil. The new oil will perform better that the oil that did the cleaning up.
We all know that the old 3.0l Ford V6 engines had noisy tappets. My dad did not want to spend the extra money to buy Delo 400 so at a stage I sponsored him with one can for the next service. Now he will take Delo 400 with him in the vehicle because he will not top up the oil if he can not do it with Delo 400. The main reason for this is because in the about 30 years he is driving vehicles with Ford V6 engines it is the first time the tappets does not become noisy the moment the engine is working hard towing caravan and become that few degrees hotter that normal.
Is the lifters noisy while the engine is still cold or is it becoming noisy only once the engine reach normal operating temperatures?
Waldo Fourie
Changing the grade of oil you are using is like a doctor prescribing medicine to take away the pain but he does not look for the cause of the pain or sickness.
I can not guarantee that Delo 400 Multigrade will fix the problem but at using it will show if the lifters need to be replaced or not.
Sludge building up can contribute to lifters making a noise but warn lifters or lifters with tollerances out of spec can also be the problem.
If the noise is caused by sludge build up you must keep in mind that Delo 400 (it must be the multigrade and not one of the other Delo 400 products) will need some time to clean up the sludge. I suggest that you give the Delo 400 at least the time and distance from one oil change to the next (10 000 to 15 000km) to clean up the sludge and see if it is better with the next oil. The new oil will perform better that the oil that did the cleaning up.
We all know that the old 3.0l Ford V6 engines had noisy tappets. My dad did not want to spend the extra money to buy Delo 400 so at a stage I sponsored him with one can for the next service. Now he will take Delo 400 with him in the vehicle because he will not top up the oil if he can not do it with Delo 400. The main reason for this is because in the about 30 years he is driving vehicles with Ford V6 engines it is the first time the tappets does not become noisy the moment the engine is working hard towing caravan and become that few degrees hotter that normal.
Is the lifters noisy while the engine is still cold or is it becoming noisy only once the engine reach normal operating temperatures?
Waldo Fourie
Gert,
Helix is a good oil but Delo 400 is a better oil. Check your owner's manual and you will see that the correct multigrade oil for the conditions and temperatures in South Africa is 15W-40.
Attached is a brochure of Delo 400.
Download similar brochures about different oils from the internet and compare the with each other. The base oil used for Delo 400 is Synthetic. Most other run of the mill products do not use synthetic oil as the base oil for there products.
Regards, Waldo Fourie
Helix is a good oil but Delo 400 is a better oil. Check your owner's manual and you will see that the correct multigrade oil for the conditions and temperatures in South Africa is 15W-40.
Attached is a brochure of Delo 400.
Caltex Delo 400 Multigrade.pdf- (267.69 KiB) Downloaded 178 times
Regards, Waldo Fourie
Hi Bold,
Thanks for the info. My question would therefore be why will a new lifter be noisy after complete head redo.
Another is natuarally if Freek suggested Shell Helix why does he not put it in when he service the vehicles
Because the oil I saw in his workshop is in big containers but no clear markings about the brand
Just something I noticed while there. No incrimination against them but it leaves the question why I should pay R195 for oil if I do not know what brand it is. Just a little worry
Thanks for the info. My question would therefore be why will a new lifter be noisy after complete head redo.
Another is natuarally if Freek suggested Shell Helix why does he not put it in when he service the vehicles
Because the oil I saw in his workshop is in big containers but no clear markings about the brand
Just something I noticed while there. No incrimination against them but it leaves the question why I should pay R195 for oil if I do not know what brand it is. Just a little worry
Hi paw-by-paw,
Please do not take me up wrong and think that what I am about to say is a rule for all businesses but unfortunately it is how a lot of businessmen are thinking.
First of all you must keep it in mind that one of the bad things about South Africans is that they will go for the cheapest price when they want to buy something (you also buy a service for your Pajero) and will not consider the more expensive prices buy looking into detail to what you get material (parts) and service wise.
The second fact is that that businessman must compete with his rivals round the corner, in town and with all the "mechanics" working from there backyard. That is one of the reasons why he will buy as cheap as possible as long as his cheap buying is hopefully not causing comebacks. We are doing it with a much smaller turnover than his. Imagine what his savings will be in one years time if he can save 10% on all the oil he must put into engines during that year.
I just hope things will change for the better with the new consumers act that is on our front step. We've got some off the best laws in the world, but law enforcement is a problem in the RSA.
When some third party must service one off my vehicles I will supply the oils and filters. I insist on getting back the empty containers. I also explain it to the owner of the business that I understand that he is making profit on the oils and spares and that I do not mind if that mark up is added to my account. In this way my chances is good to at least get the oil and filters of my choice used on my vehicles.
The boss at home always reminds me that if I need a helping hand or two I must look at the end of my arms.
"Life is a journey, enjoy the ride".
Regards,
Waldo Fourie
Please do not take me up wrong and think that what I am about to say is a rule for all businesses but unfortunately it is how a lot of businessmen are thinking.
First of all you must keep it in mind that one of the bad things about South Africans is that they will go for the cheapest price when they want to buy something (you also buy a service for your Pajero) and will not consider the more expensive prices buy looking into detail to what you get material (parts) and service wise.
The second fact is that that businessman must compete with his rivals round the corner, in town and with all the "mechanics" working from there backyard. That is one of the reasons why he will buy as cheap as possible as long as his cheap buying is hopefully not causing comebacks. We are doing it with a much smaller turnover than his. Imagine what his savings will be in one years time if he can save 10% on all the oil he must put into engines during that year.
I just hope things will change for the better with the new consumers act that is on our front step. We've got some off the best laws in the world, but law enforcement is a problem in the RSA.
When some third party must service one off my vehicles I will supply the oils and filters. I insist on getting back the empty containers. I also explain it to the owner of the business that I understand that he is making profit on the oils and spares and that I do not mind if that mark up is added to my account. In this way my chances is good to at least get the oil and filters of my choice used on my vehicles.
The boss at home always reminds me that if I need a helping hand or two I must look at the end of my arms.
"Life is a journey, enjoy the ride".
Regards,
Waldo Fourie
Sorry Paw-by-Paw,
Got a bit carried away.
I must be honest and say that I do not know why that lifter is that noisy from start up but here is a story that will explain or will not explain a lot of things.
Earlier this year a gave my 3.2l diesel engine a complete rebuild. The rebuild included new sleeves, pistons, bearings, water pump etc. I had the crank, con rods, pistons, crank pulley, flex plate and torque converter balanced.
Now you will understand that when it came to re-doing the cylinder head, I took it to one of the more reputable companies in town to do the job. The head was chemical cleaned, tested for cracks or any other damages. Then it was machined, new valve seats etc.
Started up the engine and at five of the camshaft followers there was no oil coming through to lubricate the camshaft lobes. I had to loosen the tappets, remove the followers and clean the oil ports. (will check and clean again with the first oil change). Remember, this head had a complete re-build and was chemical cleaned.
As I said previously, those lifters are very precise parts and just a small deviation from the spec may make them noisy. Sludge, a spec of dirt or grime or the wrong or old oil may all be reasons for a noisy lifter.
We must remember that a noisy tappet (not a rattling tappet) is a happy tappet. On a racing engine it may cause a minute amount of power loss butt on a production engine you will not be able to tell the difference. A tappet set with a to small a gap may cause burning valves and all the other problems to follow.
I understand the frustration with noisy lifters but they will cause no harm except if the are totally collapsed.
The use of the best oil and filters you can afford with regular oil changes will solves most of these problems.
Regards,
Waldo Fourie
Got a bit carried away.
I must be honest and say that I do not know why that lifter is that noisy from start up but here is a story that will explain or will not explain a lot of things.
Earlier this year a gave my 3.2l diesel engine a complete rebuild. The rebuild included new sleeves, pistons, bearings, water pump etc. I had the crank, con rods, pistons, crank pulley, flex plate and torque converter balanced.
Now you will understand that when it came to re-doing the cylinder head, I took it to one of the more reputable companies in town to do the job. The head was chemical cleaned, tested for cracks or any other damages. Then it was machined, new valve seats etc.
Started up the engine and at five of the camshaft followers there was no oil coming through to lubricate the camshaft lobes. I had to loosen the tappets, remove the followers and clean the oil ports. (will check and clean again with the first oil change). Remember, this head had a complete re-build and was chemical cleaned.
As I said previously, those lifters are very precise parts and just a small deviation from the spec may make them noisy. Sludge, a spec of dirt or grime or the wrong or old oil may all be reasons for a noisy lifter.
We must remember that a noisy tappet (not a rattling tappet) is a happy tappet. On a racing engine it may cause a minute amount of power loss butt on a production engine you will not be able to tell the difference. A tappet set with a to small a gap may cause burning valves and all the other problems to follow.
I understand the frustration with noisy lifters but they will cause no harm except if the are totally collapsed.
The use of the best oil and filters you can afford with regular oil changes will solves most of these problems.
Regards,
Waldo Fourie
Hi Bold,
Thanks for your info.
I put in 500ml of Wynn's engine flush, drove ± 200km's, drained the hot oil, replaced oil filter and filled up with Shell helix HX 5 K High milage 25W-60 as suggested by Mitspro,
Will run it for a few 1000k's to allow the sludge to be worked-out, one thing that worries me is that some times the tappets are quiet when I start the car and some time it sounds like if there's lose spares left in the tappet cover and this noise lasts about 5 to 6 min before it stops.
I've noticed this becauce when my solenoide of my second battery kicks in the noise tends to die down. Attached a video what it sounds like in the mornings when it is started.
Thanks for your info.
I put in 500ml of Wynn's engine flush, drove ± 200km's, drained the hot oil, replaced oil filter and filled up with Shell helix HX 5 K High milage 25W-60 as suggested by Mitspro,
Will run it for a few 1000k's to allow the sludge to be worked-out, one thing that worries me is that some times the tappets are quiet when I start the car and some time it sounds like if there's lose spares left in the tappet cover and this noise lasts about 5 to 6 min before it stops.
I've noticed this becauce when my solenoide of my second battery kicks in the noise tends to die down. Attached a video what it sounds like in the mornings when it is started.
MHO:
- I don't like engine flush. If you use decent engine oil, flushing would never be required
- 25W60 is not the correct oil for your engine.
- the long time the adjusters take to go quiet, is most probably due to the 'thick' oil you are using.
- a common cure (for the noisy adjusters) is to over-fill the sump with ±500ml of (good) oil.
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me