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In search of the palm nut vulture, a trip with a twist
As usual work interfered with holiday plans and I started my preparation later than usual. My team worked until the 22nd of Dec and this left me with very little time to get Kasper trip ready. For some reason I have this primal urge to sort the niggles out before a long trip, well this one was no different, the clutch kit that had been gathering dust for the past 3 months was taken from the workshop and the engine pulled out to install it. While the engine was out I thought it wise to change the cam belt and oil seals on the crank and cams as the old belt had done 80k and to do it in the vehicle would just be more cumbersome. While I was at it I replaced the valve stem seals as there was a puff of smoke every so often from the exhaust. when the engine went back in it had new idler pulleys, belts and a complete service, what could go wrong?
Younger two sons helping with replacing the engine
Younger two sons helping with replacing the engine
A quick trip to Marakele showed that everything was right and that the repairs were 100%, Kasper was running like a Swiss clock. The final bits was packed in to the Metalian and we set off for Ndumu, a small nature reserve in the ezemvelo stable on the border with Moz. This was going to be the birding trip of a life time, the elusive palm nut vulture was high on the wish list as well as a few other tropical species, this was the first holiday in a looong time where it was just me and the weef the boys are not that in to birding .......yet :twisted:

The trip started off well with the Pajero pulling the Metalian as if there was nothing behind until I turned the aircon on just outside Ermelo, the heat gauge crept up and going through the town it went pretty high. The first thing that came to mind was the thermostat, I never replaced this niggly bit as I did not want to disturb the gasget and it was not that old. With luck on my side there was an Autozone on the main road and I made a quick U turn and popped in to get a new one, just in case.

The temp kept on fluctuating and each time I stopped it would take about half a cup of water and the level in the bottle would rise bu the same amount, still the alarm bells did not ring. Just after the Josini turnoff things started going wrong, climbing the Lebombo mountain Kasper got so hot that it boiled and I had to stop half way up. Still blaming the hot outside temp. and the hard haul up the mountain I opened the thermostat housing to replace the "faulty" unit only to find the new part being the wrong one. Murphy was around, the part was wrong and now I was stuck with a broken gasget as well. Bush mechanics 101 paid off, with a piece of cereal box side and a small ratchet I made a new gasget and sealed it with some Vaseline that mommy uses to remove the war paint.

With everything assembled and the water filled again I closed the bonnet, the weef had been in the trailer and an ice cold glass of juice was stuck in my hand, we just soaked up the scenery. Down below some elephant was doing their thing by the water's edge while a fish eagle called close by. We were in nature and nothing was going to spoil this trip.
Ellies onthe edge of the Josini dam
Ellies onthe edge of the Josini dam
Pulling off I found the Kasper dead, no power and I battled to get to the top, dufus had not let the handbrake down. Besides wanting to kick myself I felt relieved, the engine was not damaged, the handbrake was the cause. We reached Ndumu without any major drama, the temperature still fluctuated but without a thermostat I was convinced that the water passed through the radiator too quickly and did not have enough time to cool properly. This was a problem on the old Mini, take out the thermostat and she would boil.
Our first destination
Our first destination
We set up camp under a thorn tree, this was going to be home for the next two or three days. With the camp set and us drenched in anti mosquito we sat down to enjoy our first night in the bush, a braai with the sounds of wood owl and marsh night jar amongst the cacophony of insects.

(To be continiued, time for bed ;) )
Henk Bannink

Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
Loehis
Re: In search of the palm nut vulture, a trip with a twist
Hey Henk, you still in bed??? :lol:
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Re: In search of the palm nut vulture, a trip with a twist
Loehis wrote:Hey Henk, you still in bed??? :lol:
:lol:

Next morning had us out as the sparrows stirred, this place had a LOT of bird life, sounds and calls that I was not used to.
Green pidgeon or papegaai duif
Green pidgeon or papegaai duif
Slowly crawling through the bush looking for the slightest movement in the trees we made our way to one of the bird hides. Even the plant life in this park was different, from the strange lichens to the stuff that could seriously assault one.
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I believe this one is called old mans beard
I believe this one is called old mans beard
Euphorbia Cooperii  candelabra tree
Euphorbia Cooperii candelabra tree
Then there were the more gentle and refined plants, stuff one would rather expect to find in a fancy florist or specialised nursery.
Leopard orchid  ( Ansellia africana)
Leopard orchid ( Ansellia africana)
Stapelia gigantea
Stapelia gigantea
I can ramble on for pages just on the plant life but this is about birding and the twist is not plants.

The bird hide is about 800m walk from the parking and when we reached it I was blown away. I have never seen so many different waders and waterbirds in one lake and the quantities were just unbelievable, truly any avian photographer's dream come true. I wanted to kick myself for not getting hold of Simon for the short lens he offered me and for not having a bazooka lens in my kit.
Great white egret
Great white egret
Yellow billed stork
Yellow billed stork
African Spoonbill
African Spoonbill
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A Train of pelican
A Train of pelican

After spending a great deal of the morning in the hide we carried on exploring the rest of the park, every so often something special would cross our path. Rarities like Suni, re duiker and another big tick, European honey buzzard
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It was time to play and when the river 4x4 only track popped up I was delighted and could not wait to pull the short stick. The track takes one along the river banks and every so often one would encounter some heavy sand or a nice cross axle piece. Kasper behaved well and for a while I had forgotten about the heating problems. With the thermostat lying in the back of the vehicle the temperatures were below normal for most of the day even though the outside temp was in the high 40 and reaching 50 on occasion. It was hot and we ran the aircon more than we normally would as it masks the sounds of the bush and if one is birding that is bad news, a lot of spots are due to sound. After the euphoric morning and exciting afternoon we did a quick stop at the red sands picnic spot, this overlooks the river with Moz. on the opposite bank
P1370744e.jpg
On the way back to camp we decided to have a quick stop at the vulture restaurant, yes this place even caters for them, there were a lot of tawny eagles and yellow billed kites around as well as a few steppe buzzards but one bird was different, something that I have not seen before. I looked closer and to my surprise the books said this was a juvenile Palm nut vulture :o I never expected to find one at a feeding spot, they do not eat carrion (normally) and stick to the fruit of the raphia palms hence the rarity of these birds.
Juv Palm nut vulture
Juv Palm nut vulture
A quick scan of he area showed mommy on top of a large tree in the distance, the light was fading fast and the birds were far away so the pics are not of the best quality but we had found our vulture, not where we expected but we found them
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This was an awesome day and back at camp we just soaked up the sounds and twilight scenery while a good boerie was scenting the air
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TBC :twisted:
Henk Bannink

Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
Loehis
Re: In search of the palm nut vulture, a trip with a twist
Thank you Sir! Nice report, much appreciated. I have not been to that part of the world yet, but it is for sure on my bucket-list! Looking forward to episode 3 ... :D
Butch Robertson
Re: In search of the palm nut vulture, a trip with a twist
Thanks for sharing Henk.I am looking forward to the rest of your reort, and hoping that you did not have any more problems with your vehicle.
Re: In search of the palm nut vulture, a trip with a twist
henk, you have such passion for bird photography, I authorize you to buy a

"From me to me"

present for your birthday:
A DSLR camera with a 500mm lens!
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
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TomPaj
Re: In search of the palm nut vulture, a trip with a twist
Henk - thanks for a great TR - the good ones transport the reader to the bush, complete with sounds & smells - and this is a good one :D

Keep it coming,

Cheers
Tom
Re: In search of the palm nut vulture, a trip with a twist
Nice pics Henk - Thanks for sharing!
Johan
Gen 4 GLX 30th Anniversary Edition (Gravel :mrgreen: )
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Bushlapa Boabab 4.2 in tow
Re: In search of the palm nut vulture, a trip with a twist
Henk, great trip report!!

Nice to know there are other pajero owners who are keen on birds.. :D

Not to jump the gun, but you didn't perhaps bump into any Sooty Falcons? That's still a species I need to catch up with..

Nice record of Honey Buzzard - do you perhaps have some pics?

Cheers,
D
Pajero 3.2 DID LWB GLX
Pajero 3.2 DiD SWB [SOLD]
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Re: In search of the palm nut vulture, a trip with a twist
Thanks for the responses folks, I am glad you enjoy it.

@ 4E, it might be a blessing in disguise not having a bazooka lens, thing is I get bokkoors when I have that special in front of the camera and with a long lens that is a no no :lol:

@ dwinter The European Honey Buzzard is the one just after the egret landing. It was a youngster not quite in adult plumage but not juvenile either, this baby had us guessing and flipping pages in our various bird books like there was no tomorrow and it was eventually confirmed as honey buzzard by Niall Perrins. We were lucky to find a couple of sootys but they were not up to posing for a photo :twisted:
Henk Bannink

Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
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