[MorneDJ]

OK. I drove back today at I had a nice time checking everything. The car was fine for the first 10 minutes, but the temperature started rising then. I took it slowly and drove most of the way between 80 and 100 km/h. When I hit a long uphill and drive anything faster than about 90 km/h I would reach 116 C, the warning temp on my Madman. I generally would slow down quite a bit. The trip between Stilfontein took me just over 3 hours with one stop halfway to check the coolant levels .. about 5 minutes (wanted to get coffee). No drop in the coolant levels fortunately.

I averaged about 100 most of the way, dropping to about 70 at the bad long uphills but gaining a bit in speed with the descents and the level areas.

I will speak to the dealer I bought the car from as I feel I already spend a crapload in the first month (SAC redid the injectors when they fitted the Madman - I also fixed the ABS and Traction Control as well as changed the oil to Delo 400) and they need to come to the party. I will ask that the following be checked:
- Thermostat
- Radiator
- Type of antifreeze they have in .. they must flush and replace with something decent.
- Anything else ?

[Grant4u]

When I was at the same stage as you a new radiator cap mostly fixed the temp fluctuation. Pressure is everything to keep steady and cool!
Replace ALL the back hoses to and from the heater (lots of them and awkward with the diesel pump/filter in place....remove it!) The hoses may not visibly leak water but can still loose pressure if not brand new and properly clamped....try it!

[andrew.ashton]

I will ask that the following be checked:
- Thermostat
- Radiator
- Type of antifreeze they have in .. they must flush and replace with something decent.
- Anything else ?

You could ask them to check the viscous coupling on the mechanical fan at the same time.

If anyone has been fiddling with the motor, make sure they have not connected the electric fan the wrong way round (positive negative). I once had this on a Ford V6 kombi - took a while to work out that as the elec fan kicked in it actually worsened the situation!

Also - when they replace the coolant - make a note of what it is so that you can use the same stuff every time - some coolants don't play nicely together and gel up the radiator when different brands are mixed.

Also some reports of owners changing water pump at around the 200000km mark.

[4ePajero]

This needs to be resolved in a logical way.

The cooling of an internal combustion engine is based on the following very basic principles:

• The combustion process generates heat
• The coolant 'gathers' this heat, by getting heated up.
• The coolant is circulated to a radiator, where it is cooled down, by a process of heat exchange, to repeat its task of soaking up the heat in the engine.

If the cooling system does not work, it is either

• The combustion process generating more heat than the cooling system was designed to handle
• The cooling system under-performing, not being able to cool down the coolant sufficiently.

The engine generating to much heat could be due to:

• Over-fueling
• Incorrect timing
• Failure to dissipate some of the heat through the exhaust.
• Warm exhaust gasses entering the cooling passages, not only to heat the coolant up, but disturb the circulation (the dreaded blown head gasket)

If the cooling system fails, it can be one (or more) of the following:

• Blocked cooling passages in the engine block and head, resulting in inefficient circulation
• Blocked hoses, resulting in inefficient circulation
• Inefficient water pump, resulting in inefficient circulationDefective thermostat, preventing proper coolant circulation
• Air locks in the system, preventing proper circulation
• To small a heat exchanger (radiator)
• Blocked radiator (internally)
• Blocked radiator (externally - bent fins, mud, vegetation etc)
• Restricted air flow through the radiator due to restrictions or inefficient fan
• Incorrect coolant
• Incorrect pressure in the cooling system
• Air in the system, due to blown gasket, broken radiator cap, or inoperative overflow-replenish bottle system

By checking and double-checking all these, the reason for the over-heating can be found by the process of elimination.

Don't only repair the consequences - find the source!

PS Wiping your nose (consequence of the source) does not cure your cold. Killing the virus (source of the problem) does!

[MorneDJ]

It is currently at Silverton Radiators to check the cooling.

I will take it to Alan Black in 2 - 3 weeks time.

Thanks, appreciated. Nice post.

[Grant4u]

This needs to be resolved in a logical way.

The cooling of an internal combustion engine is based on the following very basic principles:

• The combustion process generates heat
• The coolant 'gathers' this heat, by getting heated up.
• The coolant is circulated to a radiator, where it is cooled down, by a process of heat exchange, to repeat its task of soaking up the heat in the engine.

If the cooling system does not work, it is either

• The combustion process generating more heat than the cooling system was designed to handle
• The cooling system under-performing, not being able to cool down the coolant sufficiently.

The engine generating to much heat could be due to:

• Over-fueling
• Incorrect timing
• Failure to dissipate some of the heat through the exhaust.
• Warm exhaust gasses entering the cooling passages, not only to heat the coolant up, but disturb the circulation (the dreaded blown head gasket)

If the cooling system fails, it can be one (or more) of the following:

• Blocked cooling passages in the engine block and head, resulting in inefficient circulation
• Blocked hoses, resulting in inefficient circulation
• Inefficient water pump, resulting in inefficient circulation
• Air locks in the system, preventing proper circulation
• To small a heat exchanger (radiator)
• Blocked radiator (internally)
• Blocked radiator (externally - bent fins, mud, vegetation etc)
• Restricted air flow through the radiator due to restrictions or inefficient fan
• Incorrect coolant
• Incorrect pressure in the cooling system
• Air in the system, due to blown gasket, broken radiator cap, or inoperative overflow-replenish bottle system

By checking and double-checking all these, the reason for the over-heating can be found by the process of elimination.

Don't only repair the consequences - find the source!

PS Wiping your nose (consequence of the source) does not cure your cold. Killing the virus (source of the problem) does!

Thanks for this detailed reply Gerhardt...all brilliant information and so true! I am currently working thru your check list again!
(My only wish is that I did not want to become an expert in all this stuff)
Like most others I just want to drive my car and have it work normally like every other car /vehicle I have ever owned! (and that is lots of them!...more than 60!) I have to say my Paj is probably the most tetchie / sensitive vehicle I have had! The tiniest issue is always a major prob!
Right now with all the auto-electric expert attention my Battery still goes flat and no one knows why with a brand new battery and alternator!? (I still don't know what that little servo / relay / regulator unit is next to the battery and no one else knows either....never seen it before on any other car....I suspect that is the problem!?
The biggest prob for me is that when my Paj runs properly it is one of the best vehicles you ever had!!!!

[Grant4u]

Thanks for this detailed reply Gerhardt...all brilliant information and so true! I am currently working thru your check list again!
(My only wish is that I did not want to become an expert in all this stuff)
Like most others I just want to drive my car and have it work normally like every other car /vehicle I have ever owned! (and that is lots of them!...more than 60!) I have to say my Paj is probably the most tetchie / sensitive vehicle I have had! The tiniest issue is always a major prob!
Right now with all the auto-electric expert attention my Battery still goes flat and no one knows why with a brand new battery and alternator!? (I still don't know what that little servo / relay / regulator unit is next to the battery and no one else knows either....never seen it before on any other car....I suspect that is the problem!?
The biggest prob for me is that when my Paj runs properly it is one of the best vehicles you ever had!!!!

Grant4u

Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2012 7:31 pm
Location: Philipstown, Nr De-Aar, Northern Cape
Has thanked: 26 times
Been thanked: 1 time

[Wilddog]

Ive been busy with replacing my head gasket for a month now Ok,Ok Ive been renovating a house too. Anyway, Ive got a problem.

My cylinder block has the letter B stamped on it, which indicates a two notch head gasket according to the manual, There was a four notch fitted when I removed the head, Silvertons tested the coolant and found CO2 and diagnosed a blown head gasket, I haven't found any evidence of this after stripping. My Paj was running fine until the guage was often climbing into the red zone.

I have had the head pressure tested and skimmed (0.015mm)

Two questions:
Should I replace with the four notch?
What brand sealer is used at the front of the head gasket over the timming cover joints?

Thanks in advance.

[Grant4u]

Hi Dog....sorry yr having probs wit yr Paj! Me too and I learned a lot in the 19 month process....happy to share what I learned!
First....ya say ya had yr head skimmed?...Is it an original head or a replacement? The original head has ceramic injector ports....this cannot be skimmed!! New heads are all metal so it can be done!
Then....how was yr head pressure tested?...It may all look fine out side but the Paj head has internal combustion chambers for diesel inflow.....I don't know all the techie terms!....What ever....cracks occur within the head ya cannot see allowing fuel and pressure to pass between the combustion chambers!....that head is cracked no matter what anyone says....and ya can't see it!
If any of this makes sense and applies to yr vehicle....get a new head! A new head from a reputable engineer....supplied with all yr own cam and shims for proper fitting is about R5,000
I believe any standard head gasket will work okay....where do ya buy yr gasket?...."Engine Parts" in Bloem know what to supply from yr engine number.
Assuming ya still have the original gasket & flanges....normal red gasket maker is fine for fitting the timing cover joints or tell me I am wrong!

As I was tols by other members and found necessary.....get a new radiator cap, replace all the heater hoses etc...see other posts by experts in my posts before!

Good luck wit yr Paj fix!

[Wilddog]

Thanks for that, I just realised, trying to figure out what chambers you were refering too that I'm doff! My engine is 4M41 DID, so im completely on the wrong thread. My bad, sorry to waste everyones time.