Hi forumites,
Does anyone have any sage advice for me?
I stripped my radiator out this morning to get it tested / cleaned because I have experienced some high temps under heavy load on last two trips.
I assumed that it just needed a good clean / rodding and took it to Silverton in Strijdom Park, Randburg.
They pressure tested it (Was OK) and then stripped off the bottom chamber to rod it. Reassembled and cleaned and have now reported that the top tank is cracked along the lower corners where it is crimped to the radiator. (And come up with a story that the tank could pass a pressure test, even if it was cracked when I brought it in - that the crack could have been blocked by dirt.)
I don't quite buy this yet, but I DO acknowledge that at 240000km and 11 years the tank can be brittle - so I may as well bite the bullet and replace the whole radiator.
So far my choices are:
1. Silverton have quoted just under R3600 incl VAT for an "identical" replacement radiator - available tomorrow.
2. Mitsu have quoted just over R7100 incl VAT ex stock.
Edit
3. Autoboys Selby (Plexus radiator) have quoted R1976 incl VAT.
I have read about others getting a 3 core radiator (what does that mean?) with improved cooling capacity.
I have left a message with Morne (now at Silverton head office) and hope he can also provide some wisdom.
Any suggestions from the rest of you?
I am in Randburg, Gauteng area.
I would not take the risk of putting a cheaper Chinese copy in for the sake of a few thousand Rand., especially if you do long trips , overland, fully laden, in the African heat.
Different story if you are replacing the rad on a 15 yr old Citi Golf that is used to run around your neighbourhood.
My 2c worth.
Different story if you are replacing the rad on a 15 yr old Citi Golf that is used to run around your neighbourhood.
My 2c worth.
Thanks Dirty Boy - not sure that I would class Silverton radiators as a cheaper Chinese copy!Dirty Boy wrote:I would not take the risk of putting a cheaper Chinese copy in for the sake of a few thousand Rand., especially if you do long trips , overland, fully laden, in the African heat.
Different story if you are replacing the rad on a 15 yr old Citi Golf that is used to run around your neighbourhood.
My 2c worth.
Anyway - it gets to a point where an engineer has to make a decision based on available information. So with valued input from Morne at Silverton head office and Rudi at Silverton Strijdom Park my decision is that Silverton will fabricate a 3 core (vs original single core) copper bodies radiator with brass top and bottom header tanks. (vs OEM which has aluminium core and "plastic" / resin tanks). Price just under R4500 incl VAT. All nozzles, fittings and overall dimensions per original. Delivery about 4 working days.
The radiator will have a somewhat higher cooling capacity and coolant capacity than the original and I think that a brass tank will stand me in good stead when I fit a water level sensor, without having to cut into the header hose.
I will keep the forum informed.
Silverton Radiator branches sell, depending on the vehicle, a selection of radiators from different suppliers. Ideally they should lay them all out on the counter and say " These are all made for your car Sir, This one is the cheapest and comes from Whoflungdung, China. This is middle price and comes from Joes Radiator manf in Portugal and this expensive one is made by the same company as the original OE radiator, which one would you like ?
You could then inspect them and weigh price against quality. Not all cases would you have 3 to choose from.
I suspect that this is not the case, they will push the one with the biggest profit margin.
I dont think you will go wrong by having a copper/brass rad made up. Firstly, the fact that its being done by Silverton is a good thing. Secondly, that is a great price, thirdly if it ever springs a leak, it can be easily repaired. The price of Copper has helped the demise of Copper radiators fitted as OE. I dont think any production cars come out with Copper rads anymore.I think the Toyota Tazz, HiAce and Nissan 1400 bakkie were the last cars to have Copper Brass rads as standard. There is however a demand from the Heavy Truck market for Copper rads. In deepest Africa, a holed tube can be repaired a lot easier than a brazed aluminium rad.
Good luck and keep us posted.
You could then inspect them and weigh price against quality. Not all cases would you have 3 to choose from.
I suspect that this is not the case, they will push the one with the biggest profit margin.
I dont think you will go wrong by having a copper/brass rad made up. Firstly, the fact that its being done by Silverton is a good thing. Secondly, that is a great price, thirdly if it ever springs a leak, it can be easily repaired. The price of Copper has helped the demise of Copper radiators fitted as OE. I dont think any production cars come out with Copper rads anymore.I think the Toyota Tazz, HiAce and Nissan 1400 bakkie were the last cars to have Copper Brass rads as standard. There is however a demand from the Heavy Truck market for Copper rads. In deepest Africa, a holed tube can be repaired a lot easier than a brazed aluminium rad.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Andrew
I think you have taken the correct/best route. Please keep us updated. Please make sure that the thicker radiator still fit in properly with the standard fittings and that they dont leave out some plastic parts when refitting. This is especially important for the plastic cowling part that goes over the viscous fan. Without this cowling the fan just moves the air about instead of actually pulling in new cooler air through the aircon and engine radiators.
By the way. Did you check that your aircon radiator( I think it sits in front of the engine radiator if I recall correctly) is not restricted by mud/seeds/grass while you are in there?
CATS
I think you have taken the correct/best route. Please keep us updated. Please make sure that the thicker radiator still fit in properly with the standard fittings and that they dont leave out some plastic parts when refitting. This is especially important for the plastic cowling part that goes over the viscous fan. Without this cowling the fan just moves the air about instead of actually pulling in new cooler air through the aircon and engine radiators.
By the way. Did you check that your aircon radiator( I think it sits in front of the engine radiator if I recall correctly) is not restricted by mud/seeds/grass while you are in there?
CATS
2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
With reference to CATS's post, yes any clips on the current rad are important.
Im not familiar with the Paj (yet) but most rads have the Fan shroud clipped on the back and the Aircon condensor on the front.
In some cases the Intercooler and also the Transmission Oil Cooler could also be attached.
Im sure the guys at Silverton have come across this before but it might be a good idea to highlight the fact to them beforehand
Im not familiar with the Paj (yet) but most rads have the Fan shroud clipped on the back and the Aircon condensor on the front.
In some cases the Intercooler and also the Transmission Oil Cooler could also be attached.
Im sure the guys at Silverton have come across this before but it might be a good idea to highlight the fact to them beforehand
Hi CATS,CATS wrote:Andrew
I think you have taken the correct/best route. Please keep us updated. Please make sure that the thicker radiator still fit in properly with the standard fittings and that they dont leave out some plastic parts when refitting. This is especially important for the plastic cowling part that goes over the viscous fan. Without this cowling the fan just moves the air about instead of actually pulling in new cooler air through the aircon and engine radiators.
By the way. Did you check that your aircon radiator( I think it sits in front of the engine radiator if I recall correctly) is not restricted by mud/seeds/grass while you are in there?
CATS
Thanks for the feedback / watch-out-fors ...
I removed the radiator myself and will be reinstalling it myself.
The old rad definitely had some blocked tubes.
I have also fitted a new water pump (bought it a while back) although the old one looks OK. Also fitted new thermostat.
The aircon condenser looks ok - but I am fabricating some new foam seals that go round it.
Strangely enough I did find that the lower fan cowl was missing - so if you see something like that next time you go to the Kgalagadi, please remember who it belongs to. A new one is on order - should have it early next week.
Am also replacing the insulator rubbers.
Andrew, when you say that the rad has blocked tubes, what do you mean ?
1.If you mean that looking at the outside of the rad it is clogged up with mud/seeds etc then the tubes are not blocked. it just means that the cooling fins are not able to dissapate the heat.
2.You will only be able to see if the tubes (internally) are blocked by removing the tank and seeing if water passes through them.
Going back to '1' Do not just blast away with a hose or high pressure cleaner.The fins, which are between the tubes are made of a thin strip of aluminium which are pierced with fine louvers and then folded into the zigzag pattern. These are then brazed between two tubes which carries the coolant. Using a hose (on blast mode) or HP cleaner will crumple the fins. Despite being clean, they will not function properly in getting rid of heat.
If you wish to clean the outside of the rad whilst removed, I would soak it in a tub of water and then gently hose out the excess mud from between the tubes. If clean, you should be able to see through the rad when viewed from straight ahead.
I hope this makes sense and is of some help.
1.If you mean that looking at the outside of the rad it is clogged up with mud/seeds etc then the tubes are not blocked. it just means that the cooling fins are not able to dissapate the heat.
2.You will only be able to see if the tubes (internally) are blocked by removing the tank and seeing if water passes through them.
Going back to '1' Do not just blast away with a hose or high pressure cleaner.The fins, which are between the tubes are made of a thin strip of aluminium which are pierced with fine louvers and then folded into the zigzag pattern. These are then brazed between two tubes which carries the coolant. Using a hose (on blast mode) or HP cleaner will crumple the fins. Despite being clean, they will not function properly in getting rid of heat.
If you wish to clean the outside of the rad whilst removed, I would soak it in a tub of water and then gently hose out the excess mud from between the tubes. If clean, you should be able to see through the rad when viewed from straight ahead.
I hope this makes sense and is of some help.
Hi Dirty Boy,
Thanks for the input.
No, I meant what I said! i.e. after Silverton stripped off the bottom tank they found some tubes (coolant passages) blocked - not referring to mud on the air-side.
Thanks for the input.
No, I meant what I said! i.e. after Silverton stripped off the bottom tank they found some tubes (coolant passages) blocked - not referring to mud on the air-side.
Ok cool (or maybe not so cool, till you get a new rad)
It sounds like you are in safe hands with Silverton.
Good luck.
It sounds like you are in safe hands with Silverton.
Good luck.