[bold4E]

After the rebuilding of my Pajero 3.2 DID engine there was an oil leak. The leak came from the oil temperature sender unit situated underneath the outlet manifold on the cylinder block. After an inspection I realized that I never tightened the unit properly. To get any tool in there, and tighten the sender unit is about impossible. I tried a deep socket because the lug for the wire prevent was in the way of the drive when a standard socket is used. The deep socket was to long to fit a drive once the socket was in position over the oil sender unit.

The next option was to remove the manifold and turbo (or only the turbo). This looked like a big job and I came up with the following solution:

I modified the lug for the wire to the sender unit so it is situated in the middle of the unit.

I then slotted the end of a 13mm aluminium square bar and hammered it into a 26mm (1/2 inch drive) socket.

The next step was to drill a hole through the square bar ad fit a part of a 100mm nail through the hole to use it as a handle to turn the socket.

With this "make-do" spanner I fitted the oil temp sender unit, tightened it and "whalla" no more oil leaks.

I hope this will be of some help to you the day you need to replace the oil temp sender unit. They tend to crack and start leaking oil.

Waldo Fourie

[4ePikanini]

I managed with a 24mm socket on the side of a gravel road in the dark, albeit I have much smaller hands . (If it wasn't for the low oil level light I probably would have lost the engine as mine failed instantly and catastrophically)

see my thread here
https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... =55&t=1856

[4ePikanini]

I just went through my old thread and it looks as though Mitsu has an updated part. The old is 24mm and the new one is 27mm.

[4ePajero]

Since the unit seems to come in different sizes (24/26/27mm), there is a need for a generic solution.

I see three options (all three using the appropriate socket):

1. I use a Gedore push-through ratchet. The ½" bar can be removed and fitted to the back of the socket, which can then be turned with either a short ½" / 13mm open wrench ("flat spanner") or a very small adjustable wrench ("shifting spanner" / "Danville Micrometer" )
2. The same as above, but using the ½" swivel ratchet.

   

   Gedore Swivel Disk.jpg (14.88 KiB) Viewed 1026 times

3. Use the Gedore Hand-Ratchet.

   

   gedore-hand-ratchet-1-tp_3017528952626894486b.jpg (8.63 KiB) Viewed 1026 times

PS It seems as if every Di-D owner should carry a sender unit and an appropriate "spanner" in the vehicle!

[Bernard]

Hi Guys

Sometimes I love this forum, and other times I HATE it. Seems like whenever I read about an issue, I seem to experience it soon after. Forewarned is forearmed or am I attracting bad karma...

So, I smelt hot oil on sunday, but, no drips under the car (except me..). Looks like a small leak around the oil sender unit, however, when I removed the old unit (socket no 24), it was hand tight, so the leak may not be a faulty sender unit, just a loose one. Anyway, replaced with a new unit, part number MC840219 which requires a 27mm long reach socket, which I do not have.

I think Mitsubishi is trying to make it difficult so that one is unable to effect a roadside repair and needs roadside assistance...