Marius, help me understand your thinking here. You say 2SO added to diesel fuel should help. The carbon build up is in the intake manifold which is a "dry zone" with respect to fuel. If the diesel fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber, I do not understand how the 2SO / diesel mix would reach the carbon in the inlet manifold. I want to make sure I am not missing something here.
Reading Aussie posts, the carbon in the inlet manifold is quite a job to get rid of. I have a contact with a de - carbonising tank (aluminium cylinder heads, etc.) and will get it to him next week.
Last edited by peterpot on Wed Mar 23, 2016 2:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Affiliate Member
Gunk in the intake is due to egr gasses (which comes from the combustion chamber) and pcv vapours mixing.
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Just returned from Sabie. So every step I have taken in resolving this problem has been followed by an evaluation to identify if there was any improvement. The test of pulling the same load up the same uphill was used (Rigel ave hill). It would have been ideal to dyno test with every check but that was not possible. We had to rely on the "seat of the pants".
Of all the checks I have done, I have now eventually found the one specific thing that has put my vehicle at 80% to 90% of what I would expect it to be. The fuel consumption also improved significally. Once we got on the road on Thursday I realised that there was a big improvement. On Rigel ave hill today it pulled much much better.
What ?????? okay, okay........... the tiny fuel filter on the pressure pump. Oh yes I did remove it, it "looked clean" and around town it did not seem to make a difference but what a big difference on the open road - like I said it is now about 80% to 90% of what I would expect it to be. Hopefully cleaning the inlet manifold tomorrow will bring the last 10% or 20% - or more!!!!
I realised that I would be busy with the intake for most of tomorrow and thought every one would enjoy some good news.
Removing and cleaning the filter is a task that needs removing the starter and small strong hands to loosen the 6mm allen key socket underneath the pressure pump working from underneath the vehicle. Now when I was struggling to get the filter out I tried to "back wash" the filter by pumping via the return on top of the pump but found most of the pressure was being lost via the pipe to the fuel rail. I collected the "back washed" fuel in a clean container - nothing visible. When we eventually got the filter out, it appeared clean. What could possibly block this filter then (any one have experience with a Ranger 2.5tdi little filter on the pump ?) I thought about that and visits to GUD where a lot of their filter medium is a type of cellulose whose fibres are probably transparent when wet with diesel - ie it was obviously blocked - I just did not see anything.
So yippeeee
......... we did not know it (at the time) but we got it!!!!
Of all the checks I have done, I have now eventually found the one specific thing that has put my vehicle at 80% to 90% of what I would expect it to be. The fuel consumption also improved significally. Once we got on the road on Thursday I realised that there was a big improvement. On Rigel ave hill today it pulled much much better.
What ?????? okay, okay........... the tiny fuel filter on the pressure pump. Oh yes I did remove it, it "looked clean" and around town it did not seem to make a difference but what a big difference on the open road - like I said it is now about 80% to 90% of what I would expect it to be. Hopefully cleaning the inlet manifold tomorrow will bring the last 10% or 20% - or more!!!!
I realised that I would be busy with the intake for most of tomorrow and thought every one would enjoy some good news.
Removing and cleaning the filter is a task that needs removing the starter and small strong hands to loosen the 6mm allen key socket underneath the pressure pump working from underneath the vehicle. Now when I was struggling to get the filter out I tried to "back wash" the filter by pumping via the return on top of the pump but found most of the pressure was being lost via the pipe to the fuel rail. I collected the "back washed" fuel in a clean container - nothing visible. When we eventually got the filter out, it appeared clean. What could possibly block this filter then (any one have experience with a Ranger 2.5tdi little filter on the pump ?) I thought about that and visits to GUD where a lot of their filter medium is a type of cellulose whose fibres are probably transparent when wet with diesel - ie it was obviously blocked - I just did not see anything.
So yippeeee
......... we did not know it (at the time) but we got it!!!! I found some images of the pressure pump on the internet. This is the pump as you see it from above. The 6mm allen key plug is on the other side.
This side can only be seen from underneath.
It is the bigger plug that takes a 6mm allen key which has to be cut shorter to fit between the engine block and the pump.
- densocr pump1.jpg (84.46 KiB) Viewed 1439 times
This side can only be seen from underneath.
- denso cr pump 3a.jpg (12.14 KiB) Viewed 1439 times
I wish I could do it to test it on my Pajero but I'm to scared I will break something.
I hope some one else could try it and if it works I will have to take it somewhere to get it removed.
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I hope some one else could try it and if it works I will have to take it somewhere to get it removed.
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2009 Pajero 3.2 LWB GLX
OME Suspension
ARB Bumper
FR Roof Rack
OME Suspension
ARB Bumper
FR Roof Rack
Peter. So did you replace the filter or just clean it? If replaced, where did you find the replacement part? Dealers?
Thanks for keeping us all in the loop.
CATD
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Thanks for keeping us all in the loop.
CATD
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2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
Cats, while I was researching I found an exploded view diagram of the Denso pump which showed a small filter with an allen key plug situated next to a delivery valve (I cannot find it on the net again!). The older type Common Rail pumps show a filter at the pump inlet banjo bolt but they are different. Compare the photo with your pump. My inlet pipe goes straight into the pump with no banjo bolt. I then phoned and was told that there was only one filter in stock and that was in Cape Town (ie - they do not sell many) so I was pretty sure that this was a small reusable metal filter ("siffie") which it is (about 4mm x 10mm). So yes we just cleaned a seemingly clean filter and put it back. It is not an easy job and the 6mm allen key plug was extremely tight and inaccessable. The engine mounting is also in the way. We cut the short end of a 6mm allen key shorter to get it to fit in and found it so tight that we cut a small piece of pipe to put on the allen key and ended up just bending the key. The answer would be an allen key socket but there is no room for it. We ended up damaging the allen key plug with the allen keys that kept slipping out and the only way then was a hammer and chisel which now means a replacement plug.
The pump is a Denso HP3 Common Rail pressure pump (the older CR pumps have the banjo bolt type filter and are a lot more accessible) and here is a diagram of the pump showing the filter. This HP3 pump is in the inverted / upside down position when fitted on the 4M41 engine so the plug is partly sideways / facing downwards. You can just reach it with the tips of your fingers down between the engine from above.
Really wish we had a before and after Dyno for the filter clean as well. Towed an Explorer 4x4 caravan down to Underberg over the weekend. Can run at 120 on the flat, pushing up to 140+ to pass, but coming up van Rheenens dropped to 80km and temp climbed to 3/4. Really felt the lack of oomph when trying to accelerate, even from 100. 
If you can feel the grass between your toe's, your flying too low!
3.5 GLS F/LIF 1998 Lost to the x wife
3200 Tdi GSL 2001 Written off
3200 Di-D 5Dr A/T 2002 338 000 Sold
3500i A/T 5Dr 2001 Sold
3.2 Di-Dc GLS A/T 2008
3.5 GLS F/LIF 1998 Lost to the x wife
3200 Tdi GSL 2001 Written off
3200 Di-D 5Dr A/T 2002 338 000 Sold
3500i A/T 5Dr 2001 Sold
3.2 Di-Dc GLS A/T 2008
In problem solving it is sometimes more than one fault that causes a problem. Being without an EGT gauge for now, I watched my heat gauge like a hawk and it never moved over normal in all the test runs.
I believe you might have another problem and would suggest for starters that you fit an EGT gauge. That is a heavy van and if your vehicle is showing signs of running hot I would not take any chances. If you look down the outside of your radiator core can you see lots of hairs sticking out of the fins?
I believe you might have another problem and would suggest for starters that you fit an EGT gauge. That is a heavy van and if your vehicle is showing signs of running hot I would not take any chances. If you look down the outside of your radiator core can you see lots of hairs sticking out of the fins?