Can someone help?
My DiD smoke exstremely with starting in the mornings. It will continue till the engine gets to running tepreture. I had my Injectors tested by CRD. According to them they fine.
I was told to change the Censor on the intake manifold. Apparently this keeps the glow plugs on till engine gets to running temp.
Still no joy
Do the glow plugs still work?
CATS
CATS
2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
Is the coolant level in the radiator perhaps going down with time?
If it does and there is no other explanation for it, it might just be that you are very slowly leaking coolant from the radiator into a combustion chamber over night. Anti freeze in the coolant does cause white smoke if it gets into the combustion chamber. It then takes a while to burn up all the substance before the white smoke stops.
If this is the case major damage may result if not attended to soon.
It could be a head gasket or a crack.
Only a theory to follow-up on, hope I'm wrong.
If it does and there is no other explanation for it, it might just be that you are very slowly leaking coolant from the radiator into a combustion chamber over night. Anti freeze in the coolant does cause white smoke if it gets into the combustion chamber. It then takes a while to burn up all the substance before the white smoke stops.
If this is the case major damage may result if not attended to soon.
It could be a head gasket or a crack.
Only a theory to follow-up on, hope I'm wrong.
Willie from Jo'burg
White Gen 3 SWB Pajero 3.2 DID
White Gen 3 SWB Pajero 3.2 DID
You can test this by checking for pressure build-up in the cooling system. Under pressure the coolant will be forced out (to the reservoir) and air will build up in the system - danger for hot spots, w/pump failure, etc.Bigwill wrote:... major damage may result if not attended to soon.
It could be a head gasket or a crack.
Only a theory to follow-up on, hope I'm wrong.
A quick test is to open the radiator (not while very hot, of course!) and place a pipe in the radiator, and the other end in a bottle of clear water. Seal the pipe at the radiator. A piece or rubber such as an old tube will work). Idle the engine. If air bubbles comes through the pipe (it will bubble in the clear water), it means the cooling system is getting gas - thus indicating a leak in a gasket or a crack.
I hope you see no bubbles!
Anton
Thanks guys for all the replys.
According to the test I had done on the Glow plugs they still work. I must admit that on return from Malawi recently I suudenly notced that my engine temp is running above normal. While driving at night and the outside temp quite cold, I started to get concerned. It eventually just kept on rising over a 100km. I had to bring my speed down to about 90 kmh and it stayed constant. When I evetually got to a town, I checked the oil and water. I had to top up my water. I bought a litre of anti freeze and toped up the raidiator. I filled the radiator with 700ml of anti freeze. For the rest of the road back to SA until now no heating problems.
I will do the test today and I must say what you guys say make sense and it does not sound like any good news for me.
Regards
According to the test I had done on the Glow plugs they still work. I must admit that on return from Malawi recently I suudenly notced that my engine temp is running above normal. While driving at night and the outside temp quite cold, I started to get concerned. It eventually just kept on rising over a 100km. I had to bring my speed down to about 90 kmh and it stayed constant. When I evetually got to a town, I checked the oil and water. I had to top up my water. I bought a litre of anti freeze and toped up the raidiator. I filled the radiator with 700ml of anti freeze. For the rest of the road back to SA until now no heating problems.
I will do the test today and I must say what you guys say make sense and it does not sound like any good news for me.
Regards
Hi Guys
I did the test! I used a see-thru piece of pipe. Initially the ant-freeze pushed up in the pie for about 200mm 1 minute after starting. As the engine temp rises the fluid went up in the pipe as well. Every now and then a bubble appeared in the bottle. After about 15 minutes the fluid was almost as high as my hood in the open position. At this time I got bubbles jst about every 2 seconds. The engine temp was not even on running tempt.
So I think this is the not so good news
Can anybody tell me what cost am I looking at, and who will be the guys to trust to do this????
Keep in mind I am not related to any rich person. All I can say is that the company I am working for owe me so much money that they are paying me of monthly.
I did the test! I used a see-thru piece of pipe. Initially the ant-freeze pushed up in the pie for about 200mm 1 minute after starting. As the engine temp rises the fluid went up in the pipe as well. Every now and then a bubble appeared in the bottle. After about 15 minutes the fluid was almost as high as my hood in the open position. At this time I got bubbles jst about every 2 seconds. The engine temp was not even on running tempt.
So I think this is the not so good news
Can anybody tell me what cost am I looking at, and who will be the guys to trust to do this????
Keep in mind I am not related to any rich person. All I can say is that the company I am working for owe me so much money that they are paying me of monthly.
Attachments:
The bubbles COULD mean that gas is getting into the cooling system. This happens via a crack or (probably in most cases) a leak in a gasket.
You get an additive that is supposed to seal the gasket. It is pellets that is put into the radiator and disolves and then clog holes. A temporary fix.
I am not qualified to diagnose - the "test" is a simple but not totally infallable one. You may be facing removal and refitting of the cyl head here. I believe it is worth your while to take it to the agents for a proper check.
Hope the agents say it is something simple, though!
Anton
You get an additive that is supposed to seal the gasket. It is pellets that is put into the radiator and disolves and then clog holes. A temporary fix.
I am not qualified to diagnose - the "test" is a simple but not totally infallable one. You may be facing removal and refitting of the cyl head here. I believe it is worth your while to take it to the agents for a proper check.
Hope the agents say it is something simple, though!
Anton
Thanks Anton
Is Cracked Heads a common thing on the DiD Motors?
Anton if I have learned something about my local Mitsubishi dealer is that they are definitely not cheap !!!!
A dealer that charge you R150.00 to change a Air Filter. I mean it is 4 clips out with the old and in with the new. How long does that take??
Is Cracked Heads a common thing on the DiD Motors?
Anton if I have learned something about my local Mitsubishi dealer is that they are definitely not cheap !!!!
A dealer that charge you R150.00 to change a Air Filter. I mean it is 4 clips out with the old and in with the new. How long does that take??
Tonton wrote:
I am afraid your cylinderhead will have to be pulled and the gasket examined for confirmation of the cause and in any event you should then have the head pressure tested. Normally one would have the head and valves serviced at the same time.
A gasket failure or a crack can also be as a result of the overheating you have had before. In which case you still also need to find out why you overheated in the first place.
I cant say but would expect anything around R10K.
He is right, a temporary fix, only good enough to get you to the next town in an emergency. This could clog up ports in the radiator as well.You get an additive that is supposed to seal the gasket. It is pellets that is put into the radiator and disolves and then clog holes. A temporary fix.
I am afraid your cylinderhead will have to be pulled and the gasket examined for confirmation of the cause and in any event you should then have the head pressure tested. Normally one would have the head and valves serviced at the same time.
A gasket failure or a crack can also be as a result of the overheating you have had before. In which case you still also need to find out why you overheated in the first place.
I cant say but would expect anything around R10K.
Willie from Jo'burg
White Gen 3 SWB Pajero 3.2 DID
White Gen 3 SWB Pajero 3.2 DID
Here is a previous thread that may scare the living daylight out of you.
https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... 2108#p2108
https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... 2108#p2108
Willie from Jo'burg
White Gen 3 SWB Pajero 3.2 DID
White Gen 3 SWB Pajero 3.2 DID