[4ePikanini]

try the following.

look for a level flat piece of gravel.

drive slowly in low range and ask an observer to look for any slip of the wheels (there shouldn't be any when driving straight on lat gravel in low range)

If there is then you have a tyre diameter difference or someone's swapped the diff with the wrong ratio and this difference in drive is bogging the car down.

[quintonv]

OK...I'll try that, but do you really think that would have such a huge impact. I'm refering to the tyre diameter problem. Maybe the diff if it was swopped, but surely not the tyres or am I just ignorant? Sure, you might loose a bit of power here or there, but to this extent is just mind boggling. I'll try your suggestion though. Who knows, maybe it is that. I'm up for anything at this stage.

[jbeez]

When I just got mine I had a similar problem. I "thaught" I was in low range but in actual fact I was in High Range. I could not do the rocks on the old Paardeberg Trail no matter how hard I tried.

You have to press down on the lever before moving it into low range not just move the lever forward. Even on a flat road you can immediatley feel the difference.

I have no problems uphill and yes the my turbo only kicks in at about 1900 revs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEIzkP7CGfU

This is me after a diesel Jeep on a steep incline with loose rocks. Both diesels performed well as we could keep our revs down and limit wheelspin. I was fully loaded doing this trail at the end of a camping week-end.

[quintonv]

Thanks Johann. What are you saying exactly? Remember, you can't lock the rear diff if you aren't in low range and if you're in low range, the front diffs lock automatically. Right? At least the front diff light lits up. Are you saying that even with the front diff light lighting up that the car might still not be in low range?

[jbeez]

Remember, you can't lock the rear diff if you aren't in low range and if you're in low range, the front diffs lock automatically.

I do not have difflock - 96 model.

All I am saying is, are you sure that you are in low range?

Get onto a level piece of gravel road or grass. Now pull away in 2H, change from 1st to 2nd (if maunal). Now repeat this in 4H and 4L. You should immediatley feel a difference every time. If there is no difference between 4H and 4L, you are not engaging low range.

[quintonv]

Thanks, I'll try and see what happens.

[robwright]

Sounds to me like your inj pump not set up right . Pump has 2 fueling sections . The 2nd section ( boost actuator plunger ) only gives extra fuel when turbo boosting . Sounds like your fuel setting to low on main section of pump which would cause serious loss of power until turbo on song . Very easy to adjust this pump in situ . And retarded pump timing will Also cause loss of power at low rpm .

[quintonv]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions from everyone so far. How would I go about adjusting the pump or do I have to take it in? I can only take it in next year and would like to get it right before we leave for a trip to Cape Town.

Freek can't help me this year as the place that checks this for him is closed until next year. I suppose it's not really an easy job. But if it's possible for me to do it myself, please help.

Thanks in advance.

[quintonv]

Very easy to adjust this pump in situ . And retarded pump timing will Also cause loss of power at low rpm .

How would I go about doing this?

[Bigwill]

The easiest way to ensure that your car engages lowrange is to check your revcounter in low and high range but always at a constant speed. There must be a significantly higher rev reading in low range on any road surface.

Then on the tyres: assuming you only have the central diff locked as in 4H and 4L and if the average size of the front tyres are smaller or bigger than the rear tyres you will get into a windup problem where the one set of wheels need to scrub the surface to catch up or wait for the other set of wheels to sync on speed. This will feel like you are putting the brakes on. Ensure same tyre sizes and pressure on all wheels.