[RoelfleRoux]

My Indi (and I trust him with my car ) refuses to do more than just wipe the engine clean. He will not use a spay gun or a hose. He believes the companents in the engine bay were not designed to be exposed to direct water spray.

The dealer that sold me this one obviously didn't agree with my Indi

Prepsol? I'll have a look-see in our few shops in town. I'm sure a little care when applying the spray gun will be enough to preserve the "softer" components in the engine bay.

[Lock]

Nothing like a good clean engine.....

[cloyd]

Hi guys,

One question: How do you clean a 3,8 V6 engine. When I made enquiries at the "Stealers", they warn me not to use a hose and water to clean my engine. According to them there was/is a big possibility of water entering some of the ECUs and electrical connectors and that it can lead to big and expensive repairs.

Cloyd.

[RoelfleRoux]

Cloyd,

I rest my case.

A regular wipe with a rag will likely keep things in order. Those 3.8 motors are not in the habit of spewing oil out of every gasket and seal.

If more than a rag-wipe is required, I'd follow 4ePajero's advice. Big thing is to rather do it yourself to make sure you direct the spray at the non-vulnerable parts.

Now those cars that originated on the mud banks in the North Sea is a different story. They all leak oil AND their bonnets are open most of the time. One would be well advised to keep those motors clean or everybody will be able to see when it is dirty.

[4ePikanini]

another reason to like diesel! Less vulnerability to water.

[4ePikanini]

my engine (My previous Pajero - Gen2 3.0 V6) nearly at the end of the rebuild. Joh! What nostalgic drugs are running through my veins now!

https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/sh ... 181&page=1



and after it was born again



and 4ePajero's engine just after his transplant in his Gen1

[inglewood]

Hey fellas. Cheers from freezing Moscow!

As for engine cleaning, I think I can offer some solid advice, given the experience in this area (not that I wanted it)

The necessity to keep engine clean around here is dictated by winter, or the de-icing chemicals used on the road. When applied, they turn water grime and dust into sticky substance, that covers your car like a film of filth.

After each winter your radiator and engine bay (as well as the underbody) look like they went through some heavy-ass offroading. Engine is covered in a dried mixture of dirt mixed with chemicals and whatever else one may find. Getting rid of this is quite important, otherwise corrosive and other nasty effects are imminent, given that our summers run at +30C, and our winters are -25C.

So, to properly wash your engine bay

1. Buy (i dunno how it's called down under) concentrate for contact-free washing. (Used for Karcher pressure washers and whatnot). Buy a good brand, they're usually cheap. (around 10 bucks US for a liter or 3 liter bottle)

2. Cover (this is REALLY important) your alternator, and (if applies) the fuse box with plastic bags

3. ENGINE MUST BE BARELY WARM

4. Put the washing concentrate (do not dilute as per instructions on the bottle!) in a bottle that has a spraying nozzle on it (like window cleaner or whatever)

5. Spray richly on a DRY engine. AVOID hitting connectors and terminals with it.

6. Let soak for 5 mins

7. Rinse THOROUGHLY with pressure washer. Avoid spraying connectors and alternator, even with a plastic bag on it.

8. If the engine is RATHER filthy, add some scrubbing with a dish scrubber at step 5.

9. Stay amazed at the result.

And also, the concentrate is perfect for washing wheels without touching them. Just spay, let soak, rinse with a pressure washer. Basically, all those expensive brand wheel cleaners use the same basic solution as is found in washing concentrates.

This method can be used as many times as you like. However, if the engine is not really filthy, in step five use a diluted solution, or dispense from a Karcher foamer.

[GertM]

I think it's in order to welcome you on this forum. Must say your Russian is good!

[4ePajero]

@Inglewood, Welcome!

I have a query regarding your insistence to cover the alternator with a plastic bag.

Don't you think the mixture of water and road salt that is forced (blown by the fan/air flow) into the alternator will do more harm than clean rinsing water?

The salt mixture causes corrosion and will eventually destroy the alternator, no?

I don't say anybody else should do it, but I have never covered the alternator when I clean the engine, and I have not had a problem with that, ever.

What I do promote, though, is to have the engine running when rinsing it off, and keeping it running (after you have finished rinsing it off) until it has dried completely.

[inglewood]

Thank you for the welcoming, fellas! I like reading up on some info in my spare time, and I also wanted to broaden my knowledge, bu joining a forein forum) A forum from "down under" (is SA also Down Under as Australia?))) worked perfectly)

Anyway,

Being from a Soviet past (when we didn't have crap!) we learned to analyze how things work - in order to prolong their lifespan.

Re the alternator, one thing is like potassium cyanide for it: engine coolant. If it gets inside, consider the alternator ruined. Even if it does work at first, its function will grow weaker by the day.

One super-uber important thing about cleaning engines: never have it running. Risks vary from a short circuit somewhere to doing some major damage. Besides, the engine would be too hot.

Like I said, it should be at "room temperature" when you begin, and you should let it air-dry for an hour or so (keep the bonet open), preferably in the sun. Remove the bags when you begin the drying.

For us here it's a necessity to wash our engines. After winter, the radiator is full of crap, and you can easily overheat. Dealers offer "radiator cleaning" service, which involves dismantling the entire system. And engine connectors/wiring is better be kept clean of chemicals.

Also about alternators. I had 2 die on me (Peugeot 407, Ford Mondeo) because they vere mounted too low. Some splashing from the wheels - and they were done. Not immideatly, matter of fact, they were "operational". But lights began to flicker, and so on.

Paj has its alternator mounted in a great spot where it's protected from "direct impact" so to speak. The alluminum corrodes naturally, but its no biggie