Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Gemaskerde Tuinvurk wrote:
Sorry 4eP, you might have answered this in a previous post (can't find it though), but why is Delo400 better than the much more expensive synthetic oils?

I cant remember where i read it but i recall a person reporting that he drove about 30km on no oil pressure with using delo 400. He repaired the sump leak, filled up and the pressure tested fine.

Besides that large truck fleets report less breakdowns.

Besides the above all forum users i have encountered that switched to delo were more than happy.

In the end the choice lies with you but there is no denying delo is a damn good oil.mpity i cant use it in my pumpe deuse engine.

Sent via iPad & Forum Runner

Dont get me wrong - I'm a fan... got 2 5L bottles waiting to get put in this weekend.

I just have a friend who is a sceptic, and he reckons the synthetic is better since its more expensive.

My opinion as follow:
Looking at the long list of oil standards that Delo 400 adheres to compared to other oils as well as to the Delo Gold range itself you can see it is a better oil, coupled to the proven track record from fleet owners it surely is a great oil to use for our Pajeros which doesnt work as hard as fleet owners vehicles do.
Synthetic is good for the latest earo spec engines where tolerances are very tight and you need an oil that performs great while still being thin enought to work with the tight tolerances in these new engines BUT if you use them in engines where the tolerances are more relaxed due to wear-n-tear or due to older technology/design you migh not get the desired effect due to the thinner oil running/washing out much easier.
Personal experience with this as follow:
I had a 2.0 Astra and being a 2.0 and young I had some extras on it and drove it hard - nice boy toy At some stage I thought it good to use synthetic due to me driving it the way I did and this route went bad, she started sweating oil all over, it took me 3 flushes to get rid of the synthetic and all was good again. The reasoning behind it was that the thinner synthetic and the shaft-to-seal clearances did not work well together, dont know if this makes sense but it is what I experienced.

Masker,

I'm sure Gerhard will reply with a very informed answer, but to me it is simply a case of matching the engine requirements and the oil.

DELO 400 has brilliant cleaning properties. This means a poorly looked after motor will clean itself up with regular use of DELO 400 (or of course keep a nice clean engine clean ), while offering close to synthetic-type lubrication, which is perfect for the "old fashioned" straight four DiD motor.

When the motor is more refined and starts to lean towards being a "racing" engine, then I think the more expensive full synthetic "thin" 5W-type oils will be the preferred option.

We like our oil to be cheap, lubricate well and clean well. I'm sure Uys will say "pick two" . Luckily with DELO 400 you get all three.

This is my take on the issue - now lets get the facts from Gerhard. I had a little thread a year ago before I had my SWB 3.8V6 serviced and the Fouries were brilliant with their replies - I'll see if I can dig that link up.

Cheers.

I think all the questions have been answered!

Horses for courses!

Full synthetic is not necessarily 'better' for the average engine. it is more a case of a requirement, in some cases.
If your engine calls for 15W40, use the best there is (as far as mineral oils go, I believe the oil that is better than Delo400 still has to be developed).
Using full synthetic in this case often causes more problems than solutions.
Running 5w30 full synthetic when your engine wants 15W40 is not clever, regardless of how good the 5W30 is!

On the other hand (Derrin) if your engine calls for a very thin, expensive full synthetic oil, don't use mineral 15W40!

As much as I like Delo400, it is not right for the Touareg's V10 TDI, which calls for very special 5W30 full synthetic to VW's spec. I use Shell Helix HX7 AV, which goes for R325 /5l !

Your vehicle's oil spec is very important. Many clever people have ruined VW Pump-Injector engines by using the wrong (but very good) oil!

Your Mitsu (Pajero) engines are very happy with Delo400.

(I would not even think of putting it into an Evo Lancer, though!)

Here you go:

https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... =55&t=3219

and

https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... =55&t=4324

i pulled my tappet cover on my gen3 Di-D on a regular basis for various work done and every time I pulled it, it looked cleaner on the inside.

I recently pulled the tappet cover on dad's gen1 with a 3.2 Di-D heart for a cam chain top guide and his engine was fairly new when he built it into the gen1 and has been running on delo 400 ever since. It was spotless! Absolutely spotless! The camshaft lobes looked like mirrors and there wasn't a black mark or stain anywhere to be found.

My Pajero just got serviced yesterday and I supplied Delo 400, I'm sure you guys know what you are talking about and tgats why I serviced with Delo400

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Delo stands for Diesel Engine Lubrication Oil. It has synthetic features (ISOSYN similar to Castrol Magnetec) which Castrol GTX Diesel does not have, although it is not fully synthetic. It has a API rating far beyond that of Castrol Edge. Look up the specs. Castrol Edge API only goes to CF-4 whilst Delo goes to CI-4. (The oil quality grade is alphabeticly increasing letters after the C. C means it is specially formulated for Compression engines (Diedsel Engines).
Oil for spark ignition (Petrol engines) have an S in place of the C. It may work for petrol engines but is in fact a prime Diesel engine oil. You also get Delo 400 LE which is full synthetic (if you weant spend that much money)

I serviced mine with the Delo 400 for the first time last week. I might be imagining it, but starting seems a bit quicker!