Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Maybe someone else can comment on this, but when I watched Alan Black refit my injectors it looked like they put some red rubber grease around the sealing face of the injectors - not sure if they also put on the threads, but probably not a good idea.

Since you have already done all the work to remove the injectors, I am sure that you will save yourself some bucks if you take the injectors in loose to a diesel place that has a proper injector test facility - then you can actually watch them test the injectors and see if they are atomising correctly and at the correct pressure and that they are each delivering the correct volume of fuel.

Somewhere, either here on 4x4communityforum, I think I have seen reference to at least one very capable diesel shop in the CT area that will let you participate in / watch the injector testing.

I am sure someone else from the area can chip in with a name.

Once you see the injector test results then you can see what the possibilities of exchange refurbished units (then ask to see the test on THOSE) or new injectors vs price.

After you replace the refurbished / new injectors then you can decide what to do about the pump. I think it may be a PITA to remove - never tried / witnessed that.

In theory one should be able to test the pump in situ with the right equipment I guess. Looking at pressure and volume displaced per rev per cylinder. But I am not sure if anyone offers this possibility.

I know that Alan Black dynos the diesels and uses the dyno results to determine if they think the pump needs attention.

OK, so I have made a little progress...

I de-catted my pajero last week, the cat looked OK, bit of soot on the honeycomb. I just knocked the cat out, and the paj had a bit more oomph afterwards measured by seat of my pants-o-meter. Unfortunately still high EGT's still prevail, marginally down though, and they do cool down slightly quicker after shut down too.

So I have pulled my injectors, and took them too CL diesel in Blackheath (same owners as Dup Diesel) to be checked for pop pressures for both stages and spray pattern (they are Zexel two stage injectors).
All 4 of them atomised perfectly though the 5 nozzles, no drips, streams, etc. And popped at the correct pressure (on the low side of the tolerance though) , measured by a very fancy machine - all digital. I will try to load a YouTube video of the test later.

I must add that Ras at CL diesel was very helpful, did the test at no charge and gave me a free set of special copper crush washers and a banjo bolt I broke off for mahala. I just had to buy a set of copper nozzle gaskets. On that topic they are actually quite loose and fall off the tip, so you need to 'stick' them on with a bit of grease until they expand once set in the seat with the correct torque from the bolts.

On the torque issue, I broke two injector bolts off in the block...

I had to drill a small 2mm hole in the broken off stub, and knocked a small torx socket into it and carefully extracted the sheared off studs... Very luckily the two bolts holding the EGR valve on the intake manifold are identical in length and tensile spec so I could use them, nothing was open on a Saturday afternoon... Note to self and anyone else, DO NOT USE THE TORQUE WRENCH FROM MIDAS! It is way to sporadic for critical work, I will be buying a decent one ASAP...

Sent from somewhere in a galaxy far, far away...

So pics of the work done, note the broken bolts.

Sent from somewhere in a galaxy far, far away...

More pics...

Sent from somewhere in a galaxy far, far away...

Thanks for sharing.

So what does that leave as possible causes of high EGT (assuming the EGT readings re correct)? (Come in please Marius!)
Pump timing?
Pump displacement?
Boost / wastegate operation?
MAF sensor?

While you have the tappet cover off it may be worthwhile to set the valve clearances if this has not been done recently. I think I read that the design of these top ends is such that valve clearances reduce with age.

I thought I would revive my old thread. I have had my pajero back for just over a month now since my drama with the GE actuator going up in smoke and having to have the pump rebuilt again in just over a year.
My Egt's are still quite high, I have done the valve clearances and they were pretty close; within 0.01mm out. The intake should be 0.1mm and exhaust should be 0.15mm cold.

Done so far:
1. The injectors are good.
2. Pump is good(overhauled and recalibrated) and timing set 100% by CL diesel by mitsusbishi service manual spill Valve timimg procedure.
3. Intake manifold is clean.
4. De-catted exhaust
5. Egr is disabled
6. Turbo is boosting correctly and wastegate working as well.
7. Engine Compression is within service manual spec
8. Map sensor working correctly and rubber pipe and filter have been cleaned out.
9. Different fuel 50 vs 500ppm tried and tested, with and without 2so.
10. New fuel filters fitted (2 no. Of.)
11. No plug and play chip, blanking plug fitted to old dastek uni-Q harness.
12. New airfilter fitted.
13. ATF flushed out properly and renewed with mitsubishi diaqueen sp3.
14.???

Don't know what else to do or check....


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Perhaps your EGT gauge is reading incorrectly. I cant think of anything else.

You have basically checked everything! What does the intercooler look like? Have you cleaned that to assist in getting cooler air in, although I suspect a blocked intercooler should lead to lower power and not higher EGT.

How was your EGR blocked off? Blanking plate? If it is easy to remove it might be worth running it with EGR active ( no blanking) and comparing to blocked off results. I am led to believe that an active, proper working EGR will actually reduce heat in the combustion area and "may" just reduce EGT's as a result? Or am I wrong? I have often wondered if my blocked EGR is not causing my heat buildup after my rebuild when towing on extremes but has not yet gone the route of testing it. It was blocked off the same time as the rebuild having been left alone for many years to do it's designed thing.

If it is any consolation I believe that the 4m41 engine is very well controlled electronically to prevent high egt's so should be able to protect itself sufficiently in this regard.

I wonder if the MUT-II tool can read the EGT as well from the engine management system? Maybe worth your while to ask and if it does to take a drive with one and compare to your Madman readings.

CATS

EGR is only employed at part throttle. EGR is not employed at full throttle.

Yes EGR will marginally lower EGT if working correctly but that is only at part throttle when EGT is not high anyway.

Hello Guys - what are high EGT's?

idle temp?
normal driving temp,
highway 120 - 130km/h
full throttle uphill?

GK