Bosaap,
I'll be very surprised if a snorkel saves you fuel,
A freeflow is likely to add a few extra kw's, but only at higher revs. I had it fitted to a 3lV6 Sani in the early nineties. It revved better, but was so noisy I took it back and had it removed. If you promise to never use those extra kw's, there could be a small saving in fuel cost. Will it ever payback the initial cost? I don't know.
4E may have said it in jest, but the best way to save fuel is to go for a Gen3 DiD Pajero.
Roelf
Site Admin
A slurpie makes your engine breathe cleaner and perhaps a little cooler, not any better. No-one I know who has one fitted says it made any difference to fuel consumption.bosaap wrote: Ive heard that a snorkel hels as your air intake is cleaner
I wouldn't bother - the gains are insignificant. But it sounds sweet.Ive heard that you can put in a freeflow exhaust system that decreases that factor
These all contribute quite a bit (although in my experience the roofrack isn't as big an issue as made out to be).I have a roofrack withe gear, some big MT's aa well as a bullbar and its a automatic, but surely there must be something that can be done.
As long as the vehicle is mechanically sound and the fuel system isn't showing any defects, then the only way to optimise fuel consumption is changing driving style
Simon Bloomer
Bosaap,
How old is your Pajero, mines a '96 model, Blister has a.. blister fender, we both are forerunners of the 20km/l club, and have a suspicion it has something to do with a dirty/faulty/old Mass AirFlow Sensor, since Fuel consumption is a big problem I have, I slurp up all an any info scanned in these forums that could possibly have any influence, no matter how small or vague.
I think the snake-oil-in-a-tank-helps, if not only for fuel consumption, then definitely at least for the marching-band-while-engine-warms-up.
If you have a mechanic that can swap out your MAF, just to test it, then try that route, Aslam's (Blister) mechanic swapped his out, and the results where quite remarkable, only problem is you have to be sure, before purchasing one, as you can only get them at the stealers, and then at about R4,500 if your lucky.
Free-flow system does help, even if its ever so slightly, but because the difference is so small, a lot of people only change them when the current system needs work. Even there, you have a few options as far as sound goes, you can go Stainless steel, or mild steel, stainless sounds quite bad if you only have 2 boxes, but better with 3, whereas mild steel sounds really good even with 2 boxes. Mild steel, 2 boxes is definitely the cheapest option considering your fuel Cons improvement is so little.
I agree with Simon, that Roof-rack doesn't play as big a role as perceived (at least when its not in use) a rooftop tent plays a big role here.
Marius's (4Epikaneni) thread definitely is worth a read, in so far as all the little things do eventually add up (and 1km/l) better equates to a hell of a lot of money.
Furthermore, I'd even look at resetting your ECU so it can re-learn your driving style(as Maruis pointed out on another thread) (just don't then drive like a maniac for the 1st few weeks) you could find, as I have now realised, that my ECU is obviously set to the previous owners driving style, and I could be overcompensation on the foot because the gear change is not quick enough, for all I know, the previous owner was a person that sticks to 60, whether on the highway or in a parking lot.
How old is your Pajero, mines a '96 model, Blister has a.. blister fender, we both are forerunners of the 20km/l club, and have a suspicion it has something to do with a dirty/faulty/old Mass AirFlow Sensor, since Fuel consumption is a big problem I have, I slurp up all an any info scanned in these forums that could possibly have any influence, no matter how small or vague.
I think the snake-oil-in-a-tank-helps, if not only for fuel consumption, then definitely at least for the marching-band-while-engine-warms-up.
If you have a mechanic that can swap out your MAF, just to test it, then try that route, Aslam's (Blister) mechanic swapped his out, and the results where quite remarkable, only problem is you have to be sure, before purchasing one, as you can only get them at the stealers, and then at about R4,500 if your lucky.
Free-flow system does help, even if its ever so slightly, but because the difference is so small, a lot of people only change them when the current system needs work. Even there, you have a few options as far as sound goes, you can go Stainless steel, or mild steel, stainless sounds quite bad if you only have 2 boxes, but better with 3, whereas mild steel sounds really good even with 2 boxes. Mild steel, 2 boxes is definitely the cheapest option considering your fuel Cons improvement is so little.
I agree with Simon, that Roof-rack doesn't play as big a role as perceived (at least when its not in use) a rooftop tent plays a big role here.
Marius's (4Epikaneni) thread definitely is worth a read, in so far as all the little things do eventually add up (and 1km/l) better equates to a hell of a lot of money.
Furthermore, I'd even look at resetting your ECU so it can re-learn your driving style(as Maruis pointed out on another thread) (just don't then drive like a maniac for the 1st few weeks) you could find, as I have now realised, that my ECU is obviously set to the previous owners driving style, and I could be overcompensation on the foot because the gear change is not quick enough, for all I know, the previous owner was a person that sticks to 60, whether on the highway or in a parking lot.
For what its worth,
i have a 2001 3.5 v6 and am getting 6.06 k/l
i drive i fill up and then fill up before i drive , here is a good calculator
for those who battled like me to figure it out exactly
http://www.convertworld.com/en/fuel-con ... er+km.html
i have a 2001 3.5 v6 and am getting 6.06 k/l
i drive i fill up and then fill up before i drive , here is a good calculator
for those who battled like me to figure it out exactly
http://www.convertworld.com/en/fuel-con ... er+km.html
HAHAHA This was funny when I read it.
I am looking for info because I have to rebuild my Pajero 6G74 Engine.
And like to see other Pajero owners reactions towards the consumption.
I purchased my 1997 Pajero 3.5 V6 24v LWB last year Nov 2019, I know this is an old post, Dec 2019 I went on holiday to cape town, Man these cars drive nice.
After traveling 1000km I started having a misfire, and yes I did service it and replaced water pump, timing belt, and main crank seal because it is a lot of strip work just for timing belt to not do these other things.
My consumption fell to 4.1km/per ltr.
Long story short it was the spark plugs, and it cost me R13 000.00 later to find that out.
These engines run warmer than normal engines and it uses PKR5Espark plugs, not the 6E like the vin says.
I bend valves,and had a 2 month vacation instead of 10 days as planned. R30 000.00 became R63 000.00 vacation.
But yes, empty or you load it fully and pull a trailer, driving 120 or 150 it gives you 5.5km. I still love my Pajero...…………...
I am looking for info because I have to rebuild my Pajero 6G74 Engine.
And like to see other Pajero owners reactions towards the consumption.
I purchased my 1997 Pajero 3.5 V6 24v LWB last year Nov 2019, I know this is an old post, Dec 2019 I went on holiday to cape town, Man these cars drive nice.
After traveling 1000km I started having a misfire, and yes I did service it and replaced water pump, timing belt, and main crank seal because it is a lot of strip work just for timing belt to not do these other things.
My consumption fell to 4.1km/per ltr.
Long story short it was the spark plugs, and it cost me R13 000.00 later to find that out.
These engines run warmer than normal engines and it uses PKR5Espark plugs, not the 6E like the vin says.
I bend valves,and had a 2 month vacation instead of 10 days as planned. R30 000.00 became R63 000.00 vacation.
But yes, empty or you load it fully and pull a trailer, driving 120 or 150 it gives you 5.5km. I still love my Pajero...…………...
@Anonomous , do you have a roofrack on your 3.5?
I recently did a trip from Cape Town, Stilbaai, onwards through Baviaans, Addo, Transkei, up SANI & through Lesotho & back home through Eastern Freestate.
3900km, fully laden. I maintain the legal limit. I don't hammer it, but I don't wrap it wool either.
Every tank I filled up to the neck. It even took 102lt on the 1st tank
Heaviest tank was between Mthata & Fouriesburg through Lesotho. 6.8km/lt.
Best tank was between Fouriesburg & Richmond. 8.2km/lt.
Averaged out on 7.5km/lt for the whole trip. I can live with that.
Owned a camping trailer a year ago. Averaged 6.8km/lt when towing
Mine now on 280000km. Had heads rebuilt on 265000km. Also did cambelt, plugs, coils & camshaft sensor. It's bone stock. No lift, snorkel or engine mods....yet
Sent from my SM-A307FN using Tapatalk
I recently did a trip from Cape Town, Stilbaai, onwards through Baviaans, Addo, Transkei, up SANI & through Lesotho & back home through Eastern Freestate.
3900km, fully laden. I maintain the legal limit. I don't hammer it, but I don't wrap it wool either.
Every tank I filled up to the neck. It even took 102lt on the 1st tank
Heaviest tank was between Mthata & Fouriesburg through Lesotho. 6.8km/lt.
Best tank was between Fouriesburg & Richmond. 8.2km/lt.
Averaged out on 7.5km/lt for the whole trip. I can live with that.
Owned a camping trailer a year ago. Averaged 6.8km/lt when towing
Mine now on 280000km. Had heads rebuilt on 265000km. Also did cambelt, plugs, coils & camshaft sensor. It's bone stock. No lift, snorkel or engine mods....yet
Sent from my SM-A307FN using Tapatalk