So
My spare Idle Control Valves eventually arrived from the US (thanks VERY much to Monty at 4x4Wire), I swapped out my faulty one this morning. 5 minute job, with another 5 minutes trying to bring the idle speed down.
Job done!!
The idle speed is still a little high despite cranking the idle adjustment all the way, so the next step is adjust the SAS, although I'm not keen on that as it is factory fixed.
I will post photos in due course if anyone wants to do this themselves.
Total cost:
2 x Used ICV's from the US @ US$10 each (R152)
Postage @ US$26 (R198)
Customs and VAT R70
So effectively I paid R309 for a job where the cheapest USED spare I could find here in SA was R1600
Affiliate Member
It seems as if this is a weekend for maintenance 
Now for the photies 
Now for the photies Henk Bannink
Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
Hi Simon
Awhile back I posted something about my 3.5 V6 cuting out. You suggested the ICV, which it was, it has been repaired since then. It works much better than previously but still not 100%. I am very interested in ordering one from the US, as I have not found any spares. I am in Durban, do you know of anyone I can speak to this side or should I just deal with the people you dealt with and get it sent to Durban.
Thanks
Keenan
Awhile back I posted something about my 3.5 V6 cuting out. You suggested the ICV, which it was, it has been repaired since then. It works much better than previously but still not 100%. I am very interested in ordering one from the US, as I have not found any spares. I am in Durban, do you know of anyone I can speak to this side or should I just deal with the people you dealt with and get it sent to Durban.
Thanks
Keenan
Site Admin
Keenan
What is not 100% about your ICV.. what symptoms? What is not right?
What is not 100% about your ICV.. what symptoms? What is not right?
Simon Bloomer
Site Admin
Well I promised a short write up. So, here goes...
Replacing the ICV is easier than brushing your teeth, although if the price to weight ratio was anything to go by, an ICV is about as valuable as gold, and probably closer to the price of platinum. This is what the ICV look like:
First things first, the symptoms of a faulty Idle Control Valve include:
On the 3.5V6 the ICV is secured by 2 screws immediately underneath the air intake into the throttle body.
Unscrew the 2 screws on either side of the ICV, although you might need an 8mm spanner to loosen them. Unplug the harness, and install the new ICV in reverse order.
Having replaced the ICV you might find the vehicle idles far too high, especially if you've been running without one, like me, for the better part of a year (something I DO NOT recommend if you do any regular offroading). It's a simple matter of setting the engine idle speed which is a screw located at the back of the throttle body closest to the firewall, under a rubber plug.
You'll need to readjust the idle speed to around 700 to 800 rpm. If, after you have cranked the idle all the way down, it still idles high, then there are other steps to follow including the SAS, but I have it on authority the ECU will readjust the idle to the right level given a few days of driving. As mine is sitting around 1000 rpm I have decided to leave it. This is because , when the idle was adjusted to nearly 1000rpm while I was waiting for a spare ICV, I noticed it settled back to 750-odd rpm as a result of the ECU "learning" the correct settings. I am assuming it will do the same with a functional ICV.
Short, sweet and simple.
BTW, there are many comments on the various SA 4x4 forums that Mitsubishi engines are not able to have the idle speed adjusted. This is completely false and anyone who takes more than a few minutes to peruse the workshop manuals will see this.
Happy offroading...
Replacing the ICV is easier than brushing your teeth, although if the price to weight ratio was anything to go by, an ICV is about as valuable as gold, and probably closer to the price of platinum. This is what the ICV look like:
- The vehicle starts but stalls immediately without a cough or splutter - it just dies.
- At full lock on the steering the vehicle will stall or labour a lot.
- If you switch the aircon on the vehicle will probably stall. If it does not the revs drop when they should increase about 200rpm when the compressor kicks in.
On the 3.5V6 the ICV is secured by 2 screws immediately underneath the air intake into the throttle body.
Unscrew the 2 screws on either side of the ICV, although you might need an 8mm spanner to loosen them. Unplug the harness, and install the new ICV in reverse order.
Having replaced the ICV you might find the vehicle idles far too high, especially if you've been running without one, like me, for the better part of a year (something I DO NOT recommend if you do any regular offroading). It's a simple matter of setting the engine idle speed which is a screw located at the back of the throttle body closest to the firewall, under a rubber plug.
Short, sweet and simple.
BTW, there are many comments on the various SA 4x4 forums that Mitsubishi engines are not able to have the idle speed adjusted. This is completely false and anyone who takes more than a few minutes to peruse the workshop manuals will see this.
Happy offroading...
Simon Bloomer
The symptoms include what you mentioned in your earlier post. The vehicel cuts out right after starting without any spluttering. When i tested the wheel lock and aircon, the revs only dropped slightly.SimonB wrote:Keenan
What is not 100% about your ICV.. what symptoms? What is not right?
I took the vehicle to get fixed and mentioned the symptoms to the mechanic. He said it could be the ICV. He had the vehicle for almost a week and said he fixed it. The vehicle did start much easier but sometimes still cut out after starting.
I then took my car to a mechanic in PMB, who works on my brothers Colt 2.8TDI, he is very knowledgeable about Mitsu. I took it to the mechanic to replace a sensor in the gearbox to stop the CDL light from flashing and to stay on. I did not mention the ICV to the mechanic. When he returned the car he said he gave the car a once over and found the ICV was faulty. He said he saw someone tried to fix it but failed. He cleaned it out and but it back. He suggested I look for a second hand ICV at a scrap yard. He also found that the other mechanic had tried to solve the problem by just increaseing the fuel mixture. This explained the higher than normal fuel consumption.
I must say that the car starts fine and idles much smoother but if i try and drive straight away after it is cold, it cuts out. I let the car idle for a little bit before driving and it is fine. Is this still related to the ICV?
Site Admin
Keenan
Yup it sounds like your ICV is still faulty. I opened my old one up and it looks like these things are not "fixable". I'd rather not bug my contacts to source me another one as they did me a huge favour, but you can get them on eBay for around US$50.
Yup it sounds like your ICV is still faulty. I opened my old one up and it looks like these things are not "fixable". I'd rather not bug my contacts to source me another one as they did me a huge favour, but you can get them on eBay for around US$50.
Simon Bloomer
Thanks Simon
I just found the correct ICV on eBay ($54.99 incl shipping). I will use your explanation above to fit it when it arrives
Thanks again
I just found the correct ICV on eBay ($54.99 incl shipping). I will use your explanation above to fit it when it arrives
Thanks again
this iac valve is basically an electrically controlled air bleed.The motor operates in a series of graduations.
the plunger normally becomes clogged with oil and gases from the engine recirculation system.Remove the valve it will be gummed up.now clean it with SUBARU upper cylinder cleaner.it comes in an aerosol tin.respray until clean/also clean throttle butterly and inside manifold with tube supplied with tin.Some throttle butterflys get so bad it can make the throttle feel like its jammed or sticky to get off idle.The air being drawn past the butterfly (Base idle basically) at idle is critical.A faulty pcv valve or some other vacuum leak will trick the iac valve.does it have a faster idle speed when cold(valve working) if not its probably stuck.If you can get it buy some of that subaru cleaner .Amazing stuff.Used in subarus at every service to cure egr issues
the plunger normally becomes clogged with oil and gases from the engine recirculation system.Remove the valve it will be gummed up.now clean it with SUBARU upper cylinder cleaner.it comes in an aerosol tin.respray until clean/also clean throttle butterly and inside manifold with tube supplied with tin.Some throttle butterflys get so bad it can make the throttle feel like its jammed or sticky to get off idle.The air being drawn past the butterfly (Base idle basically) at idle is critical.A faulty pcv valve or some other vacuum leak will trick the iac valve.does it have a faster idle speed when cold(valve working) if not its probably stuck.If you can get it buy some of that subaru cleaner .Amazing stuff.Used in subarus at every service to cure egr issues