Hi guys and gals!
Just finished a filter and oil change on my Paj and thought it a good a idea to check the underside while I had the car on ramps. For some time I've been hearing a bit of puffing when idling cold and assumed an exhaust gasket was going. When looking from underneath with a lead light a very clear crack was visible on the underside of the left hand exhaust manifold. As I always thought the noise was from the driver's side (hidden to view) I assume now both are cracked.
Questions ....
1. What would cause the manifolds to crack? (apart from age ... 2001 model with 175 000 on the clock)
2. What harm if any has it done driving the car like this for a few thousand clicks?
3. Repair welding cast iron I know can be tricky - recommended or not? If so, who can do a decent job in Centuruion / Pta / East Rand?
4. Worthwhile considering 2nd hand manifolds? If so where?
5. Branches an option? Again who and where and how much?
6. Last option .... new manifolds from the stealers ... I understand around R 6000 a set ... right?
Please help even if you can answer only one of my many Q's.
Thanks!
Francois
Hi Scubadude
I know I have an older Gen 2.5 3.5 V6, but also heard puffing on mine, thought it also was cracked manifolds(as suggested by mechanics). Ended up it was only blown manifold gaskets.
I ended up asking for an entire s/s freeflow exh system, as existing one was "tired".
Finally, got the best option from SAC--Wildcat performance manifolds = R3400, and remainder ENTIRE s/s system = R2600.
Best money spent - in my opinion, & MUCH quieter on idle. It still has a respectable growl when pushed.
Hope this helps.
Achille
I know I have an older Gen 2.5 3.5 V6, but also heard puffing on mine, thought it also was cracked manifolds(as suggested by mechanics). Ended up it was only blown manifold gaskets.
I ended up asking for an entire s/s freeflow exh system, as existing one was "tired".
Finally, got the best option from SAC--Wildcat performance manifolds = R3400, and remainder ENTIRE s/s system = R2600.
Best money spent - in my opinion, & MUCH quieter on idle. It still has a respectable growl when pushed.
Hope this helps.
Achille
Negativety and Non-enthiusiasm are the only obstacles we shouldn't encounter "
1) Pajero 2.5Tdi SWB Gen 2, 1998, JUST SOLD - 1/2014
2) Subaru Forester 2.5 XS 2017
1) Pajero 2.5Tdi SWB Gen 2, 1998, JUST SOLD - 1/2014

2) Subaru Forester 2.5 XS 2017
Hi Guys
Some more info on this topic. After about 6000km (towing a Off-Road-Trailer) of travelling during the December holidays, I booked my Pajero for the 135000km service at Mitspro in Centurion. Three days before the service date we noticed a funny whistling noise when accellerating. I suspected an exhaust leak of some kind so I closed up the exhaust with my hand. The engine stopped running. I did not worry about this till the next morning when I noticed that the noise is louder that the previous day. Again I tested the system by holding my hand against the exhaust. This time the engine did not stop. (Cold system)I took the vehicle to 3 different exhaust "specialists" who all advised me that it was an leaking manifold gasket but they will not be able to fix it due to the time it will take for replacing the gasket. I went back to Mitspro and request him to order a manifold gasket and install it when the vehicle came for service. Freek just looked at me and said. The 3.5 and 3.8 V6 engines do not blow a manifold gasget - they crack manifolds. He directed me to a company called Speedspot in Pretoria North. I went there, spoke to the owner Henri and explained my problem. He advised me that they see this problem quite often. Anyway, Speedspot custom built exhaust branches for all kind of motor racing people -rally, swartkops, oval track racers etc. I request a quote and they came up with R3800.00 and a 3year guarantee as well as a increase in power. (They have a dyno available but I was to scared that they will damage the autobox, so I decliced the free dyno report) I took my cracked manifold along to Freek at Mitspro and ask if he can maybe tell me the reason for the cracking. The firts thing he came up with is excessive heat, which was clearly visible on the normal brownish manifold. At the heat spots the manifold was dark grey. This excessive heat are generated by a. The use of 93 unleaded fuel (Owners manual say 95), b. The towing of the off-road trailer thru the Cedarberg with the outside temp 39deg C. Freek advised that welding the manifold is not an option as it will crack next to the weld. Freek use to be the service manager for Mitsu Centurion before they closed the branch. He since opened a service centre in Centurion and is already known for his good service and even better pricing. Sorry for the long story but it all leads to the solution in the end I am a happychappy although I must say that it takes some time to get use to the new sound.
Some more info on this topic. After about 6000km (towing a Off-Road-Trailer) of travelling during the December holidays, I booked my Pajero for the 135000km service at Mitspro in Centurion. Three days before the service date we noticed a funny whistling noise when accellerating. I suspected an exhaust leak of some kind so I closed up the exhaust with my hand. The engine stopped running. I did not worry about this till the next morning when I noticed that the noise is louder that the previous day. Again I tested the system by holding my hand against the exhaust. This time the engine did not stop. (Cold system)I took the vehicle to 3 different exhaust "specialists" who all advised me that it was an leaking manifold gasket but they will not be able to fix it due to the time it will take for replacing the gasket. I went back to Mitspro and request him to order a manifold gasket and install it when the vehicle came for service. Freek just looked at me and said. The 3.5 and 3.8 V6 engines do not blow a manifold gasget - they crack manifolds. He directed me to a company called Speedspot in Pretoria North. I went there, spoke to the owner Henri and explained my problem. He advised me that they see this problem quite often. Anyway, Speedspot custom built exhaust branches for all kind of motor racing people -rally, swartkops, oval track racers etc. I request a quote and they came up with R3800.00 and a 3year guarantee as well as a increase in power. (They have a dyno available but I was to scared that they will damage the autobox, so I decliced the free dyno report) I took my cracked manifold along to Freek at Mitspro and ask if he can maybe tell me the reason for the cracking. The firts thing he came up with is excessive heat, which was clearly visible on the normal brownish manifold. At the heat spots the manifold was dark grey. This excessive heat are generated by a. The use of 93 unleaded fuel (Owners manual say 95), b. The towing of the off-road trailer thru the Cedarberg with the outside temp 39deg C. Freek advised that welding the manifold is not an option as it will crack next to the weld. Freek use to be the service manager for Mitsu Centurion before they closed the branch. He since opened a service centre in Centurion and is already known for his good service and even better pricing. Sorry for the long story but it all leads to the solution in the end I am a happychappy although I must say that it takes some time to get use to the new sound.
Aggghhh thit! I hate unplanned maintenance. Suppose the increased power and improved sound track that comes with branches may sweeten the deal a little. Read about melting harnesses ... is this a real issue?
Hi guys,
Been putting this off for a couple of months now, but I'm doing a trip to Plett in a couple of weeks and thought it best to getthe old wagon sorted out first. I looked around for branch builders close to work (Elandsfontein) and both TNT (011 822 1772) and Wildcat (011 822 4000) fit the bill. TNT's quoted was the cheapest "so omtrent R 2500 plus VAT" agains Wildcat's R 3500 all in. I decided to go with Wildcat because:
1. It's a ready made branch just fitted to the car (so little or no welding on the car plus I can inspect the bracnh before fitment)
2. They only need the car for one day, not two
3. They offer a 2 year garuantee
4. Kobus said he may work a little on the price if I refer other people to them
Going in on Monday, will let you know how it goes and sounds when it comes back ...
Been putting this off for a couple of months now, but I'm doing a trip to Plett in a couple of weeks and thought it best to getthe old wagon sorted out first. I looked around for branch builders close to work (Elandsfontein) and both TNT (011 822 1772) and Wildcat (011 822 4000) fit the bill. TNT's quoted was the cheapest "so omtrent R 2500 plus VAT" agains Wildcat's R 3500 all in. I decided to go with Wildcat because:
1. It's a ready made branch just fitted to the car (so little or no welding on the car plus I can inspect the bracnh before fitment)
2. They only need the car for one day, not two
3. They offer a 2 year garuantee
4. Kobus said he may work a little on the price if I refer other people to them

Going in on Monday, will let you know how it goes and sounds when it comes back ...
Due a double booking (my side) could not take the car in on Monday, so did it this morning. Wildcat's cash price (fully legal with all paperwork) came to R 3200 - pretty reasonable I'd say. Their service was professional and quick - car in before 7am, out by 3pm. It is a LOT quiter, a little bit of a mumble on overrun (still have to check from where) and seems to pull smoothly. If there is a power difference it is imperceptable. Just one final question ... it seems to idle slower and a little more erratic than before. Is it possible they missed a sensor or something that should have been "transplanted"?
Thanks!
Francois
Thanks!
Francois
Branches will only increase power if the heads are done with them - alone they will not provide much more power, if any.
Hi Guys, had the same problem with cracked manifold on my 3.5 and were advised by Tonton to remove the heat shields on top of manifolds as they trap heat and help cracking. The last time I spoke to him he has done quite a few kilo's and no cracks. Welding the manifold should be done correctly though with proper heating of the manifold before welding and natural cooling ---no speed cooling.
Mine was welded as I did not have the cash now for branches and Mitspro installed my engine and unfortunately the manifold was warped and had to be skimmed and it is now sealing properly.
But branches I will do for one reason as these manifolds are pricy even second hand .
Regards
Mine was welded as I did not have the cash now for branches and Mitspro installed my engine and unfortunately the manifold was warped and had to be skimmed and it is now sealing properly.
But branches I will do for one reason as these manifolds are pricy even second hand .
Regards
Got in under the car Thursday night to find the reason for the puffing on overrun and saw the bottom flange bolt where the downpipes join up with the old system was loose. Pi$$ed about the appaling quality of workmanship in SA I tightened the bolt, started the car and got back under. To my absolute dismay I found the new flange on the back end of the system was tacked only and not fillet welded!!! And when applying power under hard cornering (in true Top Gear fashion) there is a terrible grating noise -- I susoect it's touching a prop shaft somewhere.
I suppose it makes sense ... when I arrived at the shop the car was still on the hoist and I asked for a lead light to do a pre-trip inspection. The man came back with a lead light but no lead, so I could not do my inspection.
Clearly the fitter worked like his ar$e and the shop manager did not check the work. I chose Wildcat over cheaper options because (1) I expected them to do a better job and (2) they could do it in a day. I was wrong on both counts ...
Will I ever recommend Wildcat? Never in a million years.
Other observations:
- I can fully understand the reservations about under-bonnet heat.
- It is an extremely tight fit. Some hoses had to be tied back with copper wire! Considering the heat issue I may choose to do some more.
- The system is lower than before (?) and the protective plate that went on the underbelly is not reinstalled. As a result the downpipe already shows a small dent and I had not even been off road! This will affect off road ability, no doubt, and may be a trip-terminator on day
I suppose it makes sense ... when I arrived at the shop the car was still on the hoist and I asked for a lead light to do a pre-trip inspection. The man came back with a lead light but no lead, so I could not do my inspection.
Clearly the fitter worked like his ar$e and the shop manager did not check the work. I chose Wildcat over cheaper options because (1) I expected them to do a better job and (2) they could do it in a day. I was wrong on both counts ...
Will I ever recommend Wildcat? Never in a million years.
Other observations:
- I can fully understand the reservations about under-bonnet heat.
- It is an extremely tight fit. Some hoses had to be tied back with copper wire! Considering the heat issue I may choose to do some more.
- The system is lower than before (?) and the protective plate that went on the underbelly is not reinstalled. As a result the downpipe already shows a small dent and I had not even been off road! This will affect off road ability, no doubt, and may be a trip-terminator on day

Hi,
Just picked up on the famous Cracked v6 Manifolds.
I have a 2000 CK 3.5 V6 Pajero. Mine are also cracked, but have been advised not to fit the Branches, as the original ones actually offer better low down torque than the branches.
So I bought 2 new Manifolds and Gaskets which came to about R3700 from Mitsubishi.
Before fitting then I met a guy with a 3.8 v6 at Kosie Swanepoel Developments in Stikland in the Cape, who was testing his new manifold that were ceramic coated by Powerkote. (He got about 166kW and 345Nm - The coating was done for extended life and not for performance if some feel those numbers are inadequate)
The 3.8 v6 owner mentioned that he had a number of cracked manifolds on his previous Pajeros, up to doing the ceramic coating. I must say it works excelent. Powerkote do a black high temperature coating on the inside and a silver coating on the outside for R1940 for both manifolds. The coating is so effective that you can actually touch the manifold just after you were driving. As you all know touching the standard manifolds is impossible without having a blister on your finger.
The Engine compartment heat is thus greatly reduced and your heat is channeled throught to the exhaust.
They also do brake calipers and piston head coatings with the Ceramic.
Just picked up on the famous Cracked v6 Manifolds.
I have a 2000 CK 3.5 V6 Pajero. Mine are also cracked, but have been advised not to fit the Branches, as the original ones actually offer better low down torque than the branches.
So I bought 2 new Manifolds and Gaskets which came to about R3700 from Mitsubishi.
Before fitting then I met a guy with a 3.8 v6 at Kosie Swanepoel Developments in Stikland in the Cape, who was testing his new manifold that were ceramic coated by Powerkote. (He got about 166kW and 345Nm - The coating was done for extended life and not for performance if some feel those numbers are inadequate)
The 3.8 v6 owner mentioned that he had a number of cracked manifolds on his previous Pajeros, up to doing the ceramic coating. I must say it works excelent. Powerkote do a black high temperature coating on the inside and a silver coating on the outside for R1940 for both manifolds. The coating is so effective that you can actually touch the manifold just after you were driving. As you all know touching the standard manifolds is impossible without having a blister on your finger.
The Engine compartment heat is thus greatly reduced and your heat is channeled throught to the exhaust.
They also do brake calipers and piston head coatings with the Ceramic.