Hi all,
I can get a 1995 3.5 V6 with 205K on the clock for R65K:
This is what the Seller says:
The car is 100% sound to do long distance driving, cambelt was
replaced on 200 000km as well as full major service. Only problem with
vehicle is that it uses a pint of oil per 1000km, but it does not
smoke. Mechanic recons it is normal for vehicle, but feel free to give
me a call for any other questions.
The driver seat leather is worn from climbing in and out of vehicle
and the passanger front seat has got a small tear. Further more the
car is in good condition.
New shocks and tyres (BFG AT)
***
What should I think about the oil use? I don't want hidden surprises...
A pint per 1000km is still within spec for the petrol motors. I would however try and put some money aside to redo the motor at some stage. I don't totally believe the not smoking part, as the oils needs to go somewhere, and if it is the combustion chamber it will smoke a bit.Freshman wrote:Hi all,
I can get a 1995 3.5 V6 with 205K on the clock for R65K:
This is what the Seller says:
The car is 100% sound to do long distance driving, cambelt was
replaced on 200 000km as well as full major service. Only problem with
vehicle is that it uses a pint of oil per 1000km, but it does not
smoke. Mechanic recons it is normal for vehicle, but feel free to give
me a call for any other questions.
The driver seat leather is worn from climbing in and out of vehicle
and the passanger front seat has got a small tear. Further more the
car is in good condition.
New shocks and tyres (BFG AT)
***
What should I think about the oil use? I don't want hidden surprises...
CATS
2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
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probably valve stem seals. 205'000km is about the time the mitsu motor's valve stem seals start to perish.
Find a long downhill and let it coast in gear down the hill. Just before you reach the bottom give full throttle and watch your rearview mirror. If a puff of smoke comes out it is the valve stem seals. To do valve stem seals are a lot less expensive than rebuilding an engine. - some shops can even do it without removing the heads making it even cheaper.
If not, just try a thicker oil - delo 400 stopped my jetta from using 500ml between 15'000km service intervals.
Find a long downhill and let it coast in gear down the hill. Just before you reach the bottom give full throttle and watch your rearview mirror. If a puff of smoke comes out it is the valve stem seals. To do valve stem seals are a lot less expensive than rebuilding an engine. - some shops can even do it without removing the heads making it even cheaper.
If not, just try a thicker oil - delo 400 stopped my jetta from using 500ml between 15'000km service intervals.
Thanks you guys.
Thing is - I have to decide between the one I mentioned above and a 1999 with 230K on the clock selling for R73,000 which is apparently in perfect condition but the tyres are worn so I will have to replace them in the 1st month.
So that leave a diffrence of +-R15,000 between the cars if I consider the cheaper one has new BFG tyres on.
Now I could take the more expensive one and believe the Dealer who says it is perfect and get a surprise a few months down the line. Or I can buy the cheaper one with the oil problem and know I already saved R15K towards a rebuild which I might not have to do for a long while.
How much would stem seals be to do and how much would a complete rebuild be? Maybe that will help me make up my mind.
(Both cars had their cambelts done at 200K).
Thing is - I have to decide between the one I mentioned above and a 1999 with 230K on the clock selling for R73,000 which is apparently in perfect condition but the tyres are worn so I will have to replace them in the 1st month.
So that leave a diffrence of +-R15,000 between the cars if I consider the cheaper one has new BFG tyres on.
Now I could take the more expensive one and believe the Dealer who says it is perfect and get a surprise a few months down the line. Or I can buy the cheaper one with the oil problem and know I already saved R15K towards a rebuild which I might not have to do for a long while.
How much would stem seals be to do and how much would a complete rebuild be? Maybe that will help me make up my mind.
(Both cars had their cambelts done at 200K).
Freshman,Freshman wrote:Thanks you guys.
Thing is - I have to decide between the one I mentioned above and a 1999 with 230K on the clock selling for R73,000 which is apparently in perfect condition but the tyres are worn so I will have to replace them in the 1st month.
So that leave a diffrence of +-R15,000 between the cars if I consider the cheaper one has new BFG tyres on.
Now I could take the more expensive one and believe the Dealer who says it is perfect and get a surprise a few months down the line. Or I can buy the cheaper one with the oil problem and know I already saved R15K towards a rebuild which I might not have to do for a long while.
How much would stem seals be to do and how much would a complete rebuild be? Maybe that will help me make up my mind.
(Both cars had their cambelts done at 200K).
Note that the '99 (if a blister fender) has a difflock.
And the overall condition is more important than the mileage. It ususlly indicates the overall care taken to keep the car in good condition.
Personally, I'd go for the blister...
Anton
I agree with that - is is just the the Blister is at a Dealer and the cheaper one is a private sale. So the price and the promises of the Dealer might be inflated. It is easy to say that if something goes wrong the Dealer would be responsible whilst the Private sale is more Voetstoots, but with me picking up the car and driving back to Durban becomes a problem as the Dealer can just say "no problem - bring it in and we'll fix it" knowing that I will not be able to which makes it almost voetstootsAnd the overall condition is more important than the mileage. It ususlly indicates the overall care taken to keep the car in good condition.
The Private seller was honest enough to tell me about the oil use which he had no reason to do as by the time I reach Durban and find out about it it would be too late anyway.
I spoke to Allan of ANG in CT just now - what a friendly guy! He offered to have a look at the car and give me his honest advice before I fly down to buy.
Eish - what a mission to buy old hey!
Freshman,
I will go for the Blister.
I have one and its a very nice vehicle - especially with the diff lock.
You might take it for a test drive and test all the garbox settings . I mean the transfer side to check whether everything is working fine.
If you need advice here is quite a few of us with Blisters and we are sure to advice.
Good Luck
I will go for the Blister.
I have one and its a very nice vehicle - especially with the diff lock.
You might take it for a test drive and test all the garbox settings . I mean the transfer side to check whether everything is working fine.
If you need advice here is quite a few of us with Blisters and we are sure to advice.
Good Luck
If I go for the Blister (and I like the difflock option) I will have to spend R8000 more to buy it (compared to R65K for the older one) and then another R10,000 to fit new tyres as the current ones are shot.
That means having to spend R18,000 more compared to the older model I mentioned above which has new BFGs.
That means R73K + R10K for tyres = R83K
Don't you guys think that is too much for a vechile with 230K on the clock and no real warrantees?
At 230K something is bound to go at some stage. While if I buy the one for R65K and something goes south I have the diffrence of R18,000 to play with.
Not sure if a difflock is worth that much...Confused
That means having to spend R18,000 more compared to the older model I mentioned above which has new BFGs.
That means R73K + R10K for tyres = R83K
Don't you guys think that is too much for a vechile with 230K on the clock and no real warrantees?
At 230K something is bound to go at some stage. While if I buy the one for R65K and something goes south I have the diffrence of R18,000 to play with.
Not sure if a difflock is worth that much...Confused
One thing I forgot the mention. The Seller of the older model is willing to have a compression test done to hopefully proof the oil usage towards either the value stem seals or a possible oil rings.
Freshman,
If you are planning to do some serious off road you are going to need difflock at some point. It makes for much better traction and ease off getting out of situations. Especially soft sand and mud and steep inclines or rocks that is slippery.
Try and get the price down for badly worn tyres -push your luck.
That's probably the best advice I can give you.
If you are planning to do some serious off road you are going to need difflock at some point. It makes for much better traction and ease off getting out of situations. Especially soft sand and mud and steep inclines or rocks that is slippery.
Try and get the price down for badly worn tyres -push your luck.
That's probably the best advice I can give you.