Hi all,
I took the Pajero up Sani Pass for the first time today.
We were fully loaded and going up quite slowly due to someone in front of me going at a snail's pace.
I was in low-range and autobox in Drive.
Half-way up I noticed the heat gauge going up slightly and I could smell anti-freeze so I stopped to give the guy in front some headway and then set up faster to try create some airflow to help with the cooling. It helped a bit but when I got to the top I noticed water dripping underneight the right-hand side below the filler unit. It was too hot in inspect where it came from exactly.
So I parked it at the pub with the bonnet open for an hour or so and then came back and filled it to the mark (whilst ideling and heater on full).
I drove into Lesotho for a few k's and the temp gauge was 100%.
Got back to the pub and let it cool again while we had lunch.
Afterwards I had to top it up again to the mark and then drove down to Underberg where I filled petrol and had to top in up again to the mark.
The last 2 top-ups only took about 1/4 liter or so each time.
I then drove back to Durban and the temp did not move up even the slightest bit so I was happy.
But back home I had to fill it again with about 1/4 liter.
My Pajero never used water before today, so now I'm wondering:
Could it be just a airlock after the initial overheating up the pass?
I felt no performance loss on the way back.
I want to take it to my regular Mac, but also wondering if I should not take it to a cooling expert say like Silverton Rad.
In my mind it could be:
1. Fan not coming on
2. Thermostat not opening (but new one fitted 3 months ago)
3. Leaking pipe somewhere
4. Blocked Rad
What do you guys suggest: Regular Mac or "expert" Rad place?
Any other input would be appreciated.
Thanks
Pierre
Affiliate Member
check for antifreeze residue in the area it leaked.
Look especially from behind the front right wheel towards the gearbox sump. There are plastic T-pieces that tend to crack when old and leak.
Look especially from behind the front right wheel towards the gearbox sump. There are plastic T-pieces that tend to crack when old and leak.
I saw no leaks so I took it to Silverton just now.
They did a pressure test and reported no leaks but pointed out that my rad cap was shot and they were concerned that my bottom water pipe was cold and the top one hot.
So I booked it in for a flush and rad re-con as well as a full check-up of Fan, thermostat etc.
Should have it back later today.
They did a pressure test and reported no leaks but pointed out that my rad cap was shot and they were concerned that my bottom water pipe was cold and the top one hot.
So I booked it in for a flush and rad re-con as well as a full check-up of Fan, thermostat etc.
Should have it back later today.
Affiliate Member
not too expensive. While they have access replace the thermostat and cap (genuine ones) for peace of mind.
Agree with 4e, replace now with genuine and know it is all good, ask them to rod the radiator, sure they will but just make sure. A @aj should not get hot IMHO going up or down SANI, it takes a lot more than that, to get the temp up high.
Hope that sorts it, they can do a gas/head gasket test as well, maybe ask them to show you if they haven't already.
Cheers
D
Hope that sorts it, they can do a gas/head gasket test as well, maybe ask them to show you if they haven't already.
Cheers
D
Thanks for the input - they did mention "roding the rad" yes.Davidvan wrote:Agree with 4e, replace now with genuine and know it is all good, ask them to rod the radiator, sure they will but just make sure. A @aj should not get hot IMHO going up or down SANI, it takes a lot more than that, to get the temp up high.
Hope that sorts it, they can do a gas/head gasket test as well, maybe ask them to show you if they haven't already.
Cheers
D
I already ordered an original rad cap from the Agents but will only get it in 3 days so I will buy the pirate one now and replace when I get the original one and then keep the other as a spare.
The thermostat along with the w/pump was done about 3 months ago.
I'll ask about the headgasket test - thanks
It is like a plunger which goes by the radiator cap, if it picks up gases in the water it changes colour if I remember correctly.
Hi guys,
With all the overheating quarries and problems, I looked for some info I posted a few weeks ago but could not find it and did not see any comments on my findings. So I decided to repeat it. This may help with the overheating, but it is for you to decide.
Between the radiator and the valance, there are three pieces of foam gaskets - on the top and sides and my contention is that their purpose in life is to prevent warm/hot air from behind the radiator to recirculate and enter from the front thereby reducing the cooling flow of outside air. These get perished and old and then drop out. When mine dropped out, I went to the agents and asked that it be replaced. Their answer was that there is no need for it and in any case, they do not carry any spares!! I then asked them why Mitsubishi designed the gaskets and installed them - obviously no answer from the "experts".
Shortly after that episode and still without the gaskets, we went on a trip to Zambia and there I found that the heat gauge climbed a bit. We have been in similar situations (day temp, difficult terrain, low range driving, etc) without any increase in temp on previous trips.
When we got back in Pretoria, I decided to follow Mr Mitsubishi's example and made replacement gaskets with high density foam strips that I bought at PRO-rubber in Pretoria.
On our next trip into the Namib desert (day long low range, thick sand, high outside temp, heavy load, etc), the temp gauge stayed where it used to be before the original gasket dropped out.
Maybe this bit of info can help somebody. Try it and then give feedback.
Cloyd
With all the overheating quarries and problems, I looked for some info I posted a few weeks ago but could not find it and did not see any comments on my findings. So I decided to repeat it. This may help with the overheating, but it is for you to decide.
Between the radiator and the valance, there are three pieces of foam gaskets - on the top and sides and my contention is that their purpose in life is to prevent warm/hot air from behind the radiator to recirculate and enter from the front thereby reducing the cooling flow of outside air. These get perished and old and then drop out. When mine dropped out, I went to the agents and asked that it be replaced. Their answer was that there is no need for it and in any case, they do not carry any spares!! I then asked them why Mitsubishi designed the gaskets and installed them - obviously no answer from the "experts".
Shortly after that episode and still without the gaskets, we went on a trip to Zambia and there I found that the heat gauge climbed a bit. We have been in similar situations (day temp, difficult terrain, low range driving, etc) without any increase in temp on previous trips.
When we got back in Pretoria, I decided to follow Mr Mitsubishi's example and made replacement gaskets with high density foam strips that I bought at PRO-rubber in Pretoria.
On our next trip into the Namib desert (day long low range, thick sand, high outside temp, heavy load, etc), the temp gauge stayed where it used to be before the original gasket dropped out.
Maybe this bit of info can help somebody. Try it and then give feedback.
Cloyd