Good morning
Had the pajero at Mitspro yesterday (good experience as always) and they replaced one of the T pieces (cooling system) that was leaking as well as the radiator cap. The pajero had been using water for a while now.
Freek Jnr then showed me that the temp guage was a bit erratic. Not as bad as I've read on this forum, but it moves up and down between 1/4 and 3/4. It did not do this before yesterday. Freek thinks it might be the PC board in the dash. I agree, but it is strange that it started so suddenly. The temp guage is erratic even with the key in the on position, without the engine running.
Freek also asked me to check the water level this morning and to listen for a sucking sound when opening the radiator. It did take about 500 ml of water in the radiator and a bit in the overflow. The sucking sound was also there.
Any suggestions before I take the long trip to Mitspro again?
Hi
Had also a problem similiar the heat gauge gave Faulty readings showing it overheat.Had to replace Meter assembly ,but actualy replaced hole cluster.Meter assembly is +- R1700,have to wait 6 weeks for part
According to agents if you chane Meter assembly km reading shows 000000 or if you fitted sechand part will show previous km reading of other vechile.
In my case it effected petrol gauge as well.
Mitsubishi cant also detect problem with their electronic equipment.
Regards
CFJ
Marius
Had also a problem similiar the heat gauge gave Faulty readings showing it overheat.Had to replace Meter assembly ,but actualy replaced hole cluster.Meter assembly is +- R1700,have to wait 6 weeks for part
According to agents if you chane Meter assembly km reading shows 000000 or if you fitted sechand part will show previous km reading of other vechile.
In my case it effected petrol gauge as well.
Mitsubishi cant also detect problem with their electronic equipment.
Regards
CFJ
Marius
Hi,
The fuel gauge happens just like that, 1 day it is ok, the next it is buggered. The T-piece and radiator cap is primary causes of water loss, unless there is a bigger problem. Had the same with mine. Took around a week to stabilise levels after sorting. Have you seen any signs of coolant from parking overnight? I sure did notice some. I can conirm that replacing components will reset your odometer, I have a brand new Paj, only 13000km's on the clock
I would go the soldering route, check for signs of a leak under the Paj overnight and parked outside. A coolant system is. Critical for the safe running and does not do harm to have radiator flushed and rodded, mine had a lot of seeds in front as well. Silverton does a great job for a few hundred rand$ let them just do that, else they overkill it to make more money. Looks like new now!
Goodluck and keep us updated
Cheers
The fuel gauge happens just like that, 1 day it is ok, the next it is buggered. The T-piece and radiator cap is primary causes of water loss, unless there is a bigger problem. Had the same with mine. Took around a week to stabilise levels after sorting. Have you seen any signs of coolant from parking overnight? I sure did notice some. I can conirm that replacing components will reset your odometer, I have a brand new Paj, only 13000km's on the clock

Goodluck and keep us updated
Cheers
I checked the water levels this morning after driving about 50 km yesterday. Everything was 100% full. No vacuum in the radiator either. Even the overflow bottle was at exactly the same level as when I filled it up. I saw similar behaviour after replacing the thermostat earlier this year. It looks like the cooling system is very prone to airlocks. I did open the bleeder bolts when filling up yesterday, so maybe that did the trick.
As far as the erratic temp guage: It doesn't seem to be that erratic. It goes up when I stop, and down when moving. This does seem to point to air in the system, doesn't it?
As far as the erratic temp guage: It doesn't seem to be that erratic. It goes up when I stop, and down when moving. This does seem to point to air in the system, doesn't it?
Hi Pierre,
I have read of similar issues to what you explained. Also recall reference to a viscous fan coupling that could cause similar issues, maybe best to search for that, I think Marius has posted on this before. May be good just to check.
Cheers
David
I have read of similar issues to what you explained. Also recall reference to a viscous fan coupling that could cause similar issues, maybe best to search for that, I think Marius has posted on this before. May be good just to check.
Cheers
David
Update on the problem after our trip to eastern Free State and Lesotho last week.
The temp gauge will climb to just below ref when climbing steep hills, but will settle back to the halfway position when going downhill again.
The one strange thing is that the overflow bottle is slowly fill up. Its has risen from the max mark to completely full during the last two weeks. This morning I added water to the radiator for the first time. I think it took about the same amount that is now in the overflow bottle. The radiator cap is new and rubber pipes in and to the overflow bottle are connected.
Any suggestions? Are the two problems related?
I haven't checked the viscous fan. Will do that tomorrow.
The temp gauge will climb to just below ref when climbing steep hills, but will settle back to the halfway position when going downhill again.
The one strange thing is that the overflow bottle is slowly fill up. Its has risen from the max mark to completely full during the last two weeks. This morning I added water to the radiator for the first time. I think it took about the same amount that is now in the overflow bottle. The radiator cap is new and rubber pipes in and to the overflow bottle are connected.
Any suggestions? Are the two problems related?
I haven't checked the viscous fan. Will do that tomorrow.
HI Pierre
I had similar temp gauge fluctuations with motor at idle and crusing speed.
I had a look for loose connections, and found the male lug that is attached with a pin on the top of the temp sender unit was loose, I gave it a gentle tap to snug up the fit. As these units work on low voltage, I think as the alternater puts out just over 12.5v at idle and 13.8v at cruising speed this affects the temp gauge in the dash.
I soon as I snugged up the lug, my fluctuation issue went away.
I had similar temp gauge fluctuations with motor at idle and crusing speed.
I had a look for loose connections, and found the male lug that is attached with a pin on the top of the temp sender unit was loose, I gave it a gentle tap to snug up the fit. As these units work on low voltage, I think as the alternater puts out just over 12.5v at idle and 13.8v at cruising speed this affects the temp gauge in the dash.
I soon as I snugged up the lug, my fluctuation issue went away.
Nicholas Gibson
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
Nick, I owe you a beer!
I unplugged and cleaned all of the connectors around the thermostat/water pump area and it solved the problem.
It also made the LCD display (radio/aircon) work properly again. Don't know how thats possible, but I'm guessing a possible earth/short problem with one of the connectors.
I also managed to solve the problem of the overflow bottle that was filling up while the radiotor was emtying. The rubber pipe in the overflow bottle was sucking in air at the top. I fixed it with a clamp. I hope that's it with cooling problems.
I unplugged and cleaned all of the connectors around the thermostat/water pump area and it solved the problem.
It also made the LCD display (radio/aircon) work properly again. Don't know how thats possible, but I'm guessing a possible earth/short problem with one of the connectors.
I also managed to solve the problem of the overflow bottle that was filling up while the radiotor was emtying. The rubber pipe in the overflow bottle was sucking in air at the top. I fixed it with a clamp. I hope that's it with cooling problems.