Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Time to re-do the Pajero 2.8 TDI head gasket! Last time I put in a brand new head (R4,500 + R500 engineering) I had not been here yet...The gasket blew again within 20 kms! I learned a few lessons of my own and got lots of tips and advice from friends here thank you!
So far I have stripped the head out and sent it back to the Engineers (fully assembled) for testing. It looks ok but where the gasket blew is clear plus water in pistons....it was either a sub-standard quality gasket or we did not torque it correctly...I know from here how to do that properly this time!
I found a genuine Pajero radiator new at a good price (R1,250)....and got a new water pump (R395)& thermostat from the same people (Engine Den in Pretoria)
Also, on advice, I got an independent water temp gauge (I don't trust the Pajero's own...it did not warn me of a prob last time although I don't think it was over-heating that blew the gasket any way....which should mean the head is ok???!)

What do YOU think so far? agree, disagree, tips etc?

in my books a repair after an overheat should cover

- new head
- new OEM gasket
- radiator flush or recore and pressure tested
- new radiator cap
- new thermostat
- new coolant hoses (ALL of them)
- coolant replacement
- oil change

Hi Guys - I hope I can be of some sssistance to some of you..

The issue regarding the 4M40 Head - unfortunately that is probably the only 'weak' point as regards the motor, however,having said that, here are a few tips in that regard.

In the event of a blown head gasket, speak to your Engineers and ascertain WHY the gasket went in the first instant? Do not simply 'replace' the head with a new one without first finding , and solving the problem.....after an 'overheat' make sure you send your Diesel Pump and Injectors in to a Diesel Pump Room for checking.....if the pump is still good, I am sure the nossels will be burnt and require replacement at least...
Ask your Engineers to check your piston heights....a blown head gasket could have blown 'inwards' resulting in water on the piston - attempting to compress same could have resulted in a bent conrod, which will become evident to the Engineer when he checks your piston-heights......lets hope that is not the case....
!) send your radiator in to the 'radiator people' for flushing to ascertain 'effieciency' at least, or if not happy - replace with a new one, and fit a new cap - irrespective!
2) check ALL your coolant hoses - replace if any are hard or skuffed
3) fit a new thermostat - drill four 6mm or 8mm holes opposite one another on the inside flat skirt before fitting - this will ensure coolant flow is not stopped in the event of a thermostat jamming closed
4) have your Engineers ascertain if your engine block is not warped - if it is, remover the motor and have it skimmed straight.......
Now you are about to refit the new/pressure-tested and overhauled cylinderhead........ensure an Agents Head Gasket is used with NEW HEAD BOLTS - do not use old head bolts! Ensure a 'head gasket sealer' is applied prior fitment (SPANJARD COPPER HEAD GASKET MAKER) - a spray retailing @R100 a can approx, is good.
5) ensure correct head torque is used, new 1/2 moon rubbers are used from the agents - apply a little cylicone grey when fitting on the clean rubber - assists with ensuring no oil leaks
6) use a good Turbo Diesel Oil with a new Oil filter!

You are almost ready to fire-up......a good 'anti-freeze' should be used in the coolant system @ 100%......only top up with water....

The 'heat indication' system in the Pajero is fine - remember if the cooling system 'boiled' and coolant escaped, the chances of a 'heat sender unit' sitting in 'steam' and not water is good - and hence the unit not giving a true reading - it cannot function in steam, only water!

All the best, hope I have been of some help.

Regards

Skidz

Hi Skidz,

Welcome here and thanks for an informative post.

I know about petrol and old basic diesel engines......this hectic & complicated Pajero Turbo diesel engine is an entirely new animal for me!
There is a small air-controlled plastic unit at the back of the engine bay....some thing to do with the Turbo system. Pipe connections broke of and I tried to re-glue them back....what is this unit, what is it called....can I get a new one?
I do know that if air pipes to the unit are reversed the engine /turbo dont work properly...so I presume its quite important?

WOW, Skidz and 4e great posting. Can we get a average cost breakdown of this operations? I firmly believe my head is gone... Which is kinda putting me off a great ride. It is only giving me headaches and now all my friends who told me to NOT buy a Paj (and i was bent in proving them wrong cause im the guy who doesnt follow the rules) are laughing at me and saying i told you so... I did a 20km sprint from Maputo to Matola city and she overheated... i had her at most at 3000 Rpm. opened the bonnet and no coolant!!! im currently nursing her and even my mom told me to cut my losses and get a toyota...

And i had planned a trip to Zim on the next weekend.

Hi...yr family is not wrong....Go for a Toyota any time! My Toyota Stout I have had for 27 years....just one set of rings and 650,000 on the clock and still going strong.....barely ever a problem!
My Pajero sucks with just 200,00 kms and a whole engine re-build!...OK so some mistakes were made in the re-build which cost over R25,000 so far....likely another R15,00 to do most of it again! (re-building my Toyota engine 10 years ago cost just R3,000 and she is still running just fine!)
Want to know about the cost of a Pajero Engine Re-build? (excluding labour at about R5,000 + R2,500 to do it all again top-end)
Bearings, con-rod ends. bearings, etc...R3,000
New Head+ engineers set up R5,000 (existing head can't be skimmed or restored...it cracks inside....what a dumb-ass feature!)
Radiator R2,000
Water pump R500
Gasket set & bits : R1,000
Service Diesel pump: R800
Hot-plugs: R 800
Thermostat, pipes,& other bits.....R900
Diesel pump service R500

+ lots more bits and pieces, fluids, oils etc....about R2,000

Be afraid....be very afraid....do all you can and ya may still never have a reliable working vehicle ever..... after R30,000 spent fixing just the engine!....then the alternator, then the gear-box, then the diffs, then the brakes, then the tyres, then the electronics (R10,000 for a new computer system)....then lights, then...then ...then and more then!...The whole vehicle is a totally too <censored> complicated nitemare....why did they do that?.....just rather get a Toyota and rest easy!
My 1998 Pajero's market value is less than R30,00....am i a nutter to spend so much fixing this pile of junk?....You bet!
Last time I wanted a 4x4 I bought a 1976 Ford F250 Custom mega-truck....with a V8 engine for R12,00....I spent 25,000 rebuilding her....and sold her for R65,000 a year later....and she is still just fine!
WTF is going on with Mitsubishi Pajero's?

You say pajeros suck but admitted to a faulty rebuild. Ummmmm...

We have many members who have reached over 300k and mimmo has done nearly 700k kms on the original engine.

Your prices are also a bit mad as a 4m40 sub assembly can be bought these days complete for about R12k.

Sent via iPad & Forum Runner

Wont it be easier/cheaper to buy a used engine? They go for 12-16k on most engine import places...

Thanks for all the advice from members....I followed it all very carefully this time. The engine is done now and started first kick....idles quietly, smoke free and smoothly.....hardly seems the same engine!!!
A couple of problems remain.....
1. the Turbo is not kicking in!? Is it maybe that little vacuum switch at the bulk-head which I know has something to do with the Turbo.....I tried switching the pipes over....did not help....could the unit be faulty or the vacuum itself?

2. The solenoid switch to the heat-plugs is not disengaging after starting (probably what burned my heat-plugs out last time?)....is it a faulty unit or am I missing a wire to a sensor some-where?

3. There is a rubber 'overflow' pipe at the diesel pump that goes no-where....what is it and where should it go?...I have just blocked it....is that a problem?

One of my best moves was installing an independent temperature gauge....it work fine while the original registers almost nothing......how my engine over-heated last time!

Any advice will continue to be very welcom thank you....Grant