Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

We drove up Scotburg -> Sani pass pulling a conqueror conquest trailer. We stopped a few times to admire the view and all was going well.

At +-2600m the temp needle shot up quickly we continued 50 m to the next bend stopped opened the bonnet and let the car idle. The coolant was boiling quite violently and the cap on the reservoir was not tight. I tightened it and the temp dropped back fairly quickly to normal.

Just when it started to rise the aircon also stopped cooling and blowed warm air.

The engine was working quite hard we were in low range 2nd @ 3000 rpm most of the way. After stopping we continued and I let the revs go to 4000 rpm in 2nd low range. It was very warm 27 degrees outside.

It only raised above normal once after that and we stopped and it cooled down again. It did not overheat further and we stopped for a drink at sani top before continuing up Kotisephola Pass to Mokhotlong.

The following day from Mokhotlong to Katsi all was fine. from Katsi back to Fauriesburg It happened again this time we were in 2nd high range @ 2800 m. All the way back to Centurion it was fine with the needle sitting at bellow halfway.

Checking the coolant today with the car cold it is just bellow the low level.

Can I safely assume it was the high altitude and Low coolant level/non tightened reservoir ? Or do I need to investigate further ?

I see the post got a bit long - a bit shorter version is

- Overheated going slow up Sani pass with trailer in 2nd low range @ 2600 m temp rose again a bit later.
- Next day all fine
- 3rd day from Katse to Fouriesburg overheated again 2nd high range @ 2800 m

- Rest of the 2000km trip temp was sitting at normal bellow midway.

- The resovoir cap was not tight going up sani and getting back home hte coolent level was low.

Probably worth flushing cooling system and refilling with correct dilution of Mitsu coolant. I think Mitsu recommend every 2 year anyway and before winter is a good time to do it.
Also check if viscous fan operating correctly.
And if temperature gauge (R10 issue) is OK.

Not worth taking chances.

I'll try and do the flush over the weekend.

I got Silverton radiators in Centurion to clean and rod my radiator. Looks good as new. My issue was not my radiator but my gauge which had a faulty pc board.

But my temp never moves off middle unless temp is 42 degrees and very thick sand. My gauge never moves over half up Sani pass. Definately use the Mitsu coolant mix though.

Just saw pics in your trip report. I haven't towed up Sani and I have the petrol Paj not Diesel. Would still recommend Silverton in Centurion for a good clean of the radiator

Maybe I'm doing it all wrong but I'm not having much joy with car people. Its all vague we do this and that and the other and why do you want to do that, and ag ja we do that or no its not needed,

Radiator flush
- Silverton - R650 using their own brand of coolant - could not get an answer on whether they flush the heater unit or not or only the radiator.
- Mitsubishi Centurion -(R650 + R650 + 2 x R230) - ag no we don't really do it we just drain it and top up the anti freeze but we will hook it up to the computer and then take it from there. They don't seem to want to say anything until they have spoken to the computer. SO it seems like R650 + R650 labour + 2 x R230 for 4L coolant.
- Mitspro - will phone tomorow
- DIY - 2 xR230 for coolant from Mitsubishi + lots of time ?

pfgrobler wrote:Maybe I'm doing it all wrong but I'm not having much joy with car people. Its all vague we do this and that and the other and why do you want to do that, and ag ja we do that or no its not needed,

Speak to Rudi at Silverton Strijdompark.

Ask him to:
1. Flush the system, including the heaters.
2. Drain the system
3. Remove the radiator - take the header and lower tanks off and rod the cores, reassemble and then pressure test radiator & reinstall.
4. Then reassemble, flush again, do a full pressure and gas test and finally put in coolant at correct dilution or supply him with Mitsu coolant.
5. If you feel like it and they have not been done lately you can add a thermostat and rad cap and main coolant hoses.
6. And if you really feel like it you can ask him to do an inside and out intercooler clean.

They are capable of all those and understand their significance.

Be aware that you may find that in doing step 3 you need a new radiator because the headers get too brittle - but better when at the shop than when you are in the bush.

Remember you can also do lots of this yourself - then all you have to do is drop off the radiator (and intercooler if you choose) at Sivertons.