Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

I recently rebuilt my V6 and have been using LRP as I am scared of the valve issue on Unleaded.

It is a 1993 model so I'm sure it used Leaded originally.
The manual states Unleaded.
The engine rebuilder asked that I use LRP
I have been using 500ml 2-stroke per 90l tank of fuel.
I have a new MAF and only one exhaust box - NO cat converter
I drive sedately in the pajero.

I filled up last night and got 20l/100km of the last tank. The last tank was used for about 50% highway driving and the rest in a quiet East London.

It seems a tad heavy. Should I try unleaded or will it harm?

Is the engine still stiff?

My mind says I should try a tank but 5 (or more) heads are better than 1.

I honestly can't say yes or no. But an old famous last words comes to mind

"Ag one won't hurt"

I'm intrigued at the manual stating unleaded and the rebuilder syaing LRP... did he say why?

Why should there be a valve issue? Were these SAMCOR models only assembled in SA? So I'm not sure why one should use LRP if the motors were originally designed to run on unleaded in the first place.

SimonB wrote:I'm intrigued at the manual stating unleaded and the rebuilder syaing LRP... did he say why?

Why should there be a valve issue? Were these SAMCOR models only assembled in SA? So I'm not sure why one should use LRP if the motors were originally designed to run on unleaded in the first place.

He didn't go into detail but he said that he can see the damage on the valve seats on newer engines from running unleaded as opposed to lrp/leaded on the older engines.

He personally feels that the additives are not sufficient - even the LRP is worse than the old leaded according to him. ( He is smiling from the extra work he gets though )

He has never seen a DiD ( he asked me if it was made by toyota. And he mentioned that my V6 was a scarce sight - other than the occasional overheated head.)

His most business comes from KZTE and VVT toyota engines. - mostly rings/bores wear and oil pump failures.

My next tank will be unleaded ( with magic oil ) and we'll see how it goes.

My baby has a jap import motor so the issues of being assembled here does not apply but what I have personaly seen is that she performs better on lrp than on unleaded.
I have always gone for the higher octane as my compression is slightly higher than the original engine but on a few occasions I was forced to drop in lrp which surprise me as to the consumption and performance side of things. December I did a few rough tests down at the coast and the results were all in favor of lrp.
Last week I was in Kruger for the week and could only get unleaded 97 in the camp. Driving around at no speed it did not matter and made no big difference to my overall consumption so I put it down to my imagination but as soon as we left the park kasper was sluggish and lazy and used more fuel than before. I filled in nelspruit with lrp and from the word go I could feel a major difference and the climb from waterfal onder to waterfal boven was a piece of cake with normal 7.6k/l consumption at hi way speeds.

It may be helpful if you look at : http://www.bp.com/sectiongenericarticle ... Id=7049877 and then the charts to be found here http://www.naamsa.co.za/unleaded/databases/index.php will tell you what fuel they suggest you use.

Thanks for the links Dean

I see they mention 91, 93, and 95 Octane at the coast and they recommend 91, but unless I am blind i have not seen 91 at the coast.

How would octane influence consumption?

Had a talk with Dad this evening and he suspects spark plugs.

I never checked what plugs the rebuilder put in so I quickly pulled a plug.

It looks nice and brown but it is a NGK BPR6E

and the specs I found are


I'm gonna change the plugs and check that the gaps are massive as specced and see how it goes.

The leads are not a tight fit to the spark plugs. The cap and rotor looks new. Is this a major concern? The engine doesn't miss a beat. It's just thirsty.

What was the gap of the plug you took out?
The fit of the leads is not that critical, as long as is does not cause arcing.

4ePajero wrote:What was the gap of the plug you took out?
The fit of the leads is not that critical, as long as is does not cause arcing.

I judged about 1.1mm but my tool collection lacks a feeler gauge set...... for now.