Has anybody had theirs done?
Was the head taken off?
How much?
Mine is shot and it's not a job I want to do myself as I can't find a decent DIY.
What convinces you that yours is "shot"?
The only negative if they are 'marginal' is the oil consumption, and you can buy a lot of oil for the cost of the repair.
The only negative if they are 'marginal' is the oil consumption, and you can buy a lot of oil for the cost of the repair.
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
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Unusual smoke sometimes at idle - even when car is hot. If it then smokes at idle and rev it it blows a big cloud of smoke and only clears when the turbo is boosting (I suspect the boost pressure keeps the oil back)
Also when coasting down a long hill if I give throttle at the end a big ball of smoke comes out and then clears.
It is marginal as I haven't noticed any oil loss on the dipstick but it is rather embarrasing in car parks and at the drive through.
No smoke at all under acceleration or normal running. Only when I stop and let it idle for longer than about 10 seconds, and of course the familiar coast-then-throttle test.
PLUS it's a bad image for Mitsu
Also when coasting down a long hill if I give throttle at the end a big ball of smoke comes out and then clears.
It is marginal as I haven't noticed any oil loss on the dipstick but it is rather embarrasing in car parks and at the drive through.
No smoke at all under acceleration or normal running. Only when I stop and let it idle for longer than about 10 seconds, and of course the familiar coast-then-throttle test.
PLUS it's a bad image for Mitsu
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I'm keen on doing the job myself after doing some digging (to save some $$$ & I also don't trust workshops) but I need to know whether I can use the rope trick through the glow plug hole to stop the piston from dropping into the cylinder. I don't want to remove the head if possible.
I can just do the following if I'm not mistaken
- remove tappet cover
- mark and remove camshaft sprockets
- remove cam caps and rockers
- make custom spring compression tool
- remove springs and retainer clips
- pry valve stem seal out
- put new ones in
- reassemble and check tappet clearances
If I have to remove the head, it's probably not that bad but adds to the cost. I'll be able to inspect the condition of the engine (especially since I have been running some of mitsubishi's diesel cleaner and 2SO in the diesel) but it adds the work of flushing and bleeding the cooling system and I'm scared to touch an existing good sealing head gasket.
I can just do the following if I'm not mistaken
- remove tappet cover
- mark and remove camshaft sprockets
- remove cam caps and rockers
- make custom spring compression tool
- remove springs and retainer clips
- pry valve stem seal out
- put new ones in
- reassemble and check tappet clearances
If I have to remove the head, it's probably not that bad but adds to the cost. I'll be able to inspect the condition of the engine (especially since I have been running some of mitsubishi's diesel cleaner and 2SO in the diesel) but it adds the work of flushing and bleeding the cooling system and I'm scared to touch an existing good sealing head gasket.
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As a matter of interest what is the clearance between the head and piston at tdc. I have done many petrol engines without any problems and if a valve should drop it would only go down about 5mm. As soon as the new seal is in place the friction keeps the valve up to fit the spring and cotters. Another way is to make an adapter to fit in the glow plug hole that would connect to your compressor and let the air pressure keep the valve up
Henk Bannink
Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
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This is a picture I could find of a 4m41 cylinder.
It looks like it's about 5-6mm
It looks like it's about 5-6mm
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Wise words4ePikanini wrote:............I'm scared to touch an existing good sealing head gasket.
Worst that can happen is you drop a valve and it goes down 8mm should not be a problem to recover with the help of a long nose plier.Remove all the glow plugs so that the motor can turn freely and use a nice thick brazing rod to guage the piston, go for it.
As usual take pics
Henk Bannink
Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
Affiliate Member
That's a given, considering I couldn't find anybody that has done it before with pics.HBannink wrote:
As usual take pics
I'm waiting for prices from the dealer though and will only do it once I have time and cash for the job.
Hi all interested,
Due to the fact that the piston of the 3.2 diesel protrudes the cylinder block when the piston is at top dead centre the valve will only drop by the sum of the thicknes of the head gasket plus the recess for the valve in the piston. Remember that the head's . surface and the valve head surface is about the same level ( no combustion chamber like a petrol enjin). I would guess that the valve will drop about 3mm max if the piston is at top dead centre.
I used the following method on a 3.2 diesel enjin to replace the valve stem seals once in the past.
1. Remove tappet cover.
2. Disconnect the diesel feed to the injectors.
3. Disconnect the electric connection to the glow plugs.
4 Remove the glow plugs. This is done as a safety precaution only because the glow plugs protrode the head when in position.
5. Remove the injectors.
6. Remove rockers. Remember to mark them. The must go back to their origanal position.
7. Turn enjin by hand until number 1 piston is at bottom dead centre.
8. Fill the cylinder with a new ski rope through the injector's hole. Make sure the rope is cleaan and the end is not fed into the cylinder. Will be difficult to fish the rope out through that small hole.
9. Now also fill cylinder 4 with a ski rope as per note 7.
10. Turn the engin by hand to compress the rope. This will prevent the valves to fall down into the cylinder because the rope is also pessing the valves to keep them in a closed position.
NB. The rope must be compressed only enough to keep the valves in position but you must be able to pull the rope one of the cylinder. Never turn the enjin anti clock wise - it may damage the timing chain tentioner.
11. Take off the clips from the valve stems by compressing the valve springs.
12. Remove old valve stem seals and replace with new seals.
13. Fit valve springs and valve stem clips.
14. Pull rope out of cylinders.
15. Repeat step 7 to 14 for cylinders 3 and 4.
16. Fit rockers.
17. Set tappets to correct gaps.
18. Replace the injectors and glow plugs and connect them.
19. Fit the tappet cover.
20. Bleed the diesel if needed.
21. Start the enjin and check for diesel and oil leaks.
22. Fit the tupperware.
If the smoke was caused by leaking valve step seals your problem should be solved.
I've used this method on various petrol enjins with geat results. An old machaninic gave me this method when in 1975 to replace the valve stem seals on my VOLVO 122S.
Regards,
Waldo Fourie.
Due to the fact that the piston of the 3.2 diesel protrudes the cylinder block when the piston is at top dead centre the valve will only drop by the sum of the thicknes of the head gasket plus the recess for the valve in the piston. Remember that the head's . surface and the valve head surface is about the same level ( no combustion chamber like a petrol enjin). I would guess that the valve will drop about 3mm max if the piston is at top dead centre.
I used the following method on a 3.2 diesel enjin to replace the valve stem seals once in the past.
1. Remove tappet cover.
2. Disconnect the diesel feed to the injectors.
3. Disconnect the electric connection to the glow plugs.
4 Remove the glow plugs. This is done as a safety precaution only because the glow plugs protrode the head when in position.
5. Remove the injectors.
6. Remove rockers. Remember to mark them. The must go back to their origanal position.
7. Turn enjin by hand until number 1 piston is at bottom dead centre.
8. Fill the cylinder with a new ski rope through the injector's hole. Make sure the rope is cleaan and the end is not fed into the cylinder. Will be difficult to fish the rope out through that small hole.
9. Now also fill cylinder 4 with a ski rope as per note 7.
10. Turn the engin by hand to compress the rope. This will prevent the valves to fall down into the cylinder because the rope is also pessing the valves to keep them in a closed position.
NB. The rope must be compressed only enough to keep the valves in position but you must be able to pull the rope one of the cylinder. Never turn the enjin anti clock wise - it may damage the timing chain tentioner.
11. Take off the clips from the valve stems by compressing the valve springs.
12. Remove old valve stem seals and replace with new seals.
13. Fit valve springs and valve stem clips.
14. Pull rope out of cylinders.
15. Repeat step 7 to 14 for cylinders 3 and 4.
16. Fit rockers.
17. Set tappets to correct gaps.
18. Replace the injectors and glow plugs and connect them.
19. Fit the tappet cover.
20. Bleed the diesel if needed.
21. Start the enjin and check for diesel and oil leaks.
22. Fit the tupperware.
If the smoke was caused by leaking valve step seals your problem should be solved.
I've used this method on various petrol enjins with geat results. An old machaninic gave me this method when in 1975 to replace the valve stem seals on my VOLVO 122S.
Regards,
Waldo Fourie.
Affiliate Member
Dankie oom.
This confirms to me that it can be done as I thought without disturbing the head.
I will do this once I'm back from my trip to Rhodes this weekend.
This confirms to me that it can be done as I thought without disturbing the head.
I will do this once I'm back from my trip to Rhodes this weekend.