Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Does anyone know how the safety mechanism (triggering reverse action) actually works? (1993 Pajero). My driver side window moves easily to the top, but then suddenly reverses just as it reaches the top? It does not sound if the window hits anything - can the stop-point be adjusted or perhaps be made less sensitive?

How easy is it take to open the door mechanism - I am not a mechanic but can help myself with basics?

Its based on load. Just spray the window runners with silicone spray.

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If the door it self is misaligned like was in a accident or something can also cause it. I had it with mine. If the channel is just a millimeter out, either skew or narrowed it will cause it. Especially now as we are having colder weather. Remember steel shrink(not much) and also the rubbers get stiffer.

Hi @Chriswm,

I have had similar problems on my Gen3.
Not sure if the mechanism on your door is similar.
I stripped the driver's door yesterday. The mechanism is a drum and a multi-strand cable. So as the drum turns the cable is wound off one side, goes over an upper and lower pulley and then returns to wind back on to the drum (similar to an overhead crane lifting hook) The window carrier is fixed to the cable between the two pulleys.

On mine the problem was that several of the cable strands had broken causing birds nests in the cable. When a birds nest hits one of the pulleys the current drawn by the motor increases and the safety mechanism then reverses the motor to prevent say a child's hand / head being trapped between window and frame.

Sadly the cable is not a consumer maintainable part - In my case I need a complete new mechanism to solve.

Between the Mitsu workshop manual, various helpful posts and a Haynes manual I sussed out what to do - Found the trim clips were very tight and the door handle surround a bit of a pig to remove - there is a technique to it.

Those cables can be made up at your local cable supplier. I paid R120 for mine. Most cable suppliers do the job so often that you can bring in the whole mecahanism and they even fit the cables for you!(about R300)

P.S the silicone lube on the rubbers works wonders, did the same with my Colt D/C.

Hi @sixmaniac,

Thanks for the post.

I already came to that same conclusion yesterday.

Got a pair of cables made up by Anropa (011 334 7410) this morning - 3-hour turnaround R228 for the pair incl VAT vs last known price of a regulator at Mitsu of about R800. NB apparently the regulator is specific to LWB 2000 - 2003

Anropa use a wire with 1.5mm OD - a bit bigger than the OEM 1.4mm but seems to work OK. Maybe if others get cables made that are of a larger diameter allow another 2mm per cable. My tensioner springs are fully compressed using the 1.5mm OD. But then that probably compensates for some wear in other components so no harm done.

So now sixmaniac and I have bust the myth that window regulators are not user serviceable - as long as it is one or both regulator cables that have failed and not the motor / other components.

If anyone needs more info don't hesitate to contact me.

Hi Andrew

Thanks for the advice - I had a similar problem and had the cables made up by Anropa.
The window however now winds up to the top and immediately returns a third down. This happens even if the window is not installed and only the mechanism is connected.
Any idea what this could be?

Thanks
Fanie

Fanie wrote:Hi Andrew

Thanks for the advice - I had a similar problem and had the cables made up by Anropa.
The window however now winds up to the top and immediately returns a third down. This happens even if the window is not installed and only the mechanism is connected.
Any idea what this could be?

Thanks
Fanie

Hi Fanie,
Not sure - where are you based? Since you used Anropa I am guessing you must be somewhere around Jhb / Centurion. If so I am willing to take a look and see if I can help you. You are welcome to pm me to coordinate something.

When you fitted the new cables from Anropa how compressed or otherwise are the tensioning springs in the window carrier?

Hi Andrew
I am based in Centurion.
The springs are compressed about halfway - just about the way the originals were.
I took out the left window carrier and compared - can spot no difference.
Even with the carrier removed from the door, and without the glass, this still happens.
I have been wondering whether there is not a limit adjusting to be done or alternatively a learn function.
Will struggle some more and let you know.
I need to mention that the return seems to occur after the top has been reached. (not before the top)

Regards
Fanie

Hi Fanie,

Assuming all the obvious things OK, like path of cables etc.

One thing you could try.
Stop the window half way down.
Turn off ignition for a while (longer than it takes for window mechanism to become inactive).
Turn on ignition.
Send window to fully open.
Wait a few seconds till it is stopped at fully open.
Then try to close it and see if it then stays at fully closed after it reaches the top.