[CATS]

Christo,

IMHO, whatever caused the Snoop to destroy the original head has not been fixed!

The result(s) of some problem was fixed, but if you don't get to the bottom of this, the cycle WILL repeat itself.

It is time for a thorough cooling system check:

• Radiator
• Radiator cap
• Cowling
• Viscous clutch
• Thermostat
• Water pump
• Coolant (I recommend Caltex Extended Life)

Don't use it until this is resolved.

Oom 4E

That is the thing. Waterpump, radiator, radiator cap, thermostat was all replaced with engine rebuild, which by the way was not due to overheating as I never had overheating issues before the engine rebuilt. All waterpipes etc was also replaced a while ago as preventetave maintenance. So all that was not yet replaced is the viscous. I am happy to change that to new original, even if it does not resolve issue as it has done 300000kms, so might need new goo in any case. Only thing is that before rebuilt viscous did not give issues so why now after rebuild?

I see the bottom cowling around the viscous is missing, not sure it was missing before rebuild as it never gave heat problems so I never checked. Also the sponges around the radiator is all gone where there definitely were some before. Maybe that is the main thing.

CATS

[4ePikanini]

My Gen3 never had the bottom cowling and never had the sponges and it never overheated. The biggest workout I ever gave it was towing a tractor trailer home about 3km uphill and then going back and towing the tractor home as well. It was slow but hard work.

Perhaps a dud thermostat or gasket maker stuck in thermostat impeding flow?

Was the welsch plugs changed? I have seen a welsch plug just pushed into the block and left there. That can also seriously hamper flow.

Did they deck the cylinder head? There are various thickness headgaskets to compensate for cylinder to piston clearance. Get this wrong and the ignition properties can change.

Has the egr been blocked? It may stuck open and hot gases may flow through the cooler heating the coolant excessively.

Is the exhaust manifold heat shield still in place so it doesn't heat the engine bay and surrounding pipes too much?

Catalytic converter out?

Have you changed bash plate setup or removed a bash plate?It may affect airflow through the engine bay if you have a different one or none at all.

Just throwing a few theories out there.

[cloyd]

Cats,

I believe the Mitsu engineer had a reason for the gaskets. When my strips started to disintegrate I went to the stealers and asked them to replace. Their answer was that they did not have spares and that they have never ever replaced them. I argued and tried everything but no replacement.

Soon after we went on a trip to Zambia and encountered real HOT weather +45 n the car gauge and more on the route. My temp gauge started to creep up. When we got back home, I immediately bought some foam (sealer strips) from Builders and fitted it. That did not last long before the heat destroyed them. Next I went to a rubber dealer and they had some thick foam - ± 30 mm thick and very dense. I bought about 1,5m of it and fitted it. To date no "warming up" of the temp gauge. It stays where it used to be. Since fitting the strips, we have been to Namibia, Bots, etc - once again with temps deep in the 40's without any "rise". Even whilst towing my Desert Wolf in March in the middle of the Karoo. Maybe the engineers knew what they were doing when they installed those gaskets.

Cloyd

[CATS]

My Gen3 never had the bottom cowling and never had the sponges and it never overheated. The biggest workout I ever gave it was towing a tractor trailer home about 3km uphill and then going back and towing the tractor home as well. It was slow but hard work.

Perhaps a dud thermostat or gasket maker stuck in thermostat impeding flow?

Was the welsch plugs changed? I have seen a welsch plug just pushed into the block and left there. That can also seriously hamper flow.

Did they deck the cylinder head? There are various thickness headgaskets to compensate for cylinder to piston clearance. Get this wrong and the ignition properties can change.

Has the egr been blocked? It may stuck open and hot gases may flow through the cooler heating the coolant excessively.

Is the exhaust manifold heat shield still in place so it doesn't heat the engine bay and surrounding pipes too much?

Catalytic converter out?

Have you changed bash plate setup or removed a bash plate?It may affect airflow through the engine bay if you have a different one or none at all.

Just throwing a few theories out there.

4ePikanini

EGR blocked off now with rebuild but was still opperational before rebuild.

Cat removed some time ago.

Exhaust heat shield still in place.

No new or changed bashplates etc. Only thing that changed since the piston crack was the new pistons(original Mitsu), oil pump, turbo seal service, new radiator, new radiator cap( this was changed again since then by the way), new thermostat, new oil pressure level sensor, new timing chain and guides/ tensioners, new head (AMF), new valve stem seals, intercooler flush, EGR block off and all the rest that go with new pistons. Block was honed slightly.

Basically a new car, but now it gives me temp problems where it never did before. The blocked thermostat or incorrect gasket or welsch plug replacement I do not know and hope thar AB will check all that.

They are getting new cowling and sponges and will test on dyno hopefully tomorrow.

CATS

[4ePajero]

No new or changed bashplates etc. Only thing that changed since the piston crack was the new pistons(original Mitsu), oil pump, turbo seal service, new radiator, new radiator cap( this was changed again since then by the way), new thermostat, new oil pressure level sensor, new timing chain and guides/ tensioners, new head (AMF), new valve stem seals, intercooler flush, EGR block off and all the rest that go with new pistons. Block was honed slightly.

Basically a new car, but now it gives me temp problems where it never did before. The blocked thermostat or incorrect gasket or welsch plug replacement I do not know and hope thar AB will check all that.

They are getting new cowling and sponges and will test on dyno hopefully tomorrow.

CATS

Water pump?

[CATS]

Waterpump was replaced as preventative maintenance 20000km before engine rebuilt with original MM unit and did not give hassles before rebuild. I hope it is still that waterpump that is mounted on my engine? I will replace again if it is found to be faulty, not sure how one can test a waterpump?

CATS

[andrew.ashton]

Waterpump was replaced as preventative maintenance 20000km before engine rebuilt with original MM unit and did not give hassles before rebuild. I hope it is still that waterpump that is mounted on my engine? I will replace again if it is found to be faulty, not sure how one can test a waterpump?

CATS

Just do a visual check on the rotor / vanes.

When I took mine out at around 220 000km it looked like new. If that rotor was turning at belt speed then it was delivering at rated capacity.

The reason for changing the water pump at that kind of age / km is because the seal can start weeping resulting in (possibly catastrophic) loss of coolant and loss of coolant pressure.

[andrew.ashton]

Hi CATS,

I've just got back from a trip and was wondering if you had sorted out the overheating issue on Snoopy, because mine is also not sorted to my satisfaction?

[CATS]

Andrew

Yes, and I don't know!

It seems to be fixed, but I have yet to hook up my Xplorer and tackle a big hill. I fitted a Madman engine management system in the process to give me accurate temp readings for EGT, oil and water amongst some other data. This makes for interesting reading info and so far I could determine that it is better but I am not sure if completely cured. I drove this weekend at high speed with a light trailer and over a long period of hard work the temp still climb steadily. The highest it would go however was 89degC before the hill was over or I had to slack down for traffic, so that is still good. What was a bit worrying was that it was still steadily slowly climbing at that stage, which to me seems not right. I will monitor and give feedback but as I don't have an upcoming long trip planned and it is not my daily driver, conclusive feedback might take a while.

CATS

[4ePikanini]

That temp climb doesn't sound right.

Can you compare the coolant hoses to a schematic or another car?

Have tried parking with the nose elevated to try and see if there are air pockets that you can bleed?