[Nick Gibson]

I had a bit of time to work on the Pajero on sunday.

I replaced the diesel fuel filter to try and sort out a hard hot starting issue. I was actually surprised at the size difference between the two, the GUD (made in ISRAEL nogal) being much bigger. Will see if it helps with the issue this week, the element seemed to be quite dirty.

OEM vs GUD 1

OEM vs GUD 2

OEM vs GUD 3

Element to OEM filter

I also replaced the exhaust manifold with a well seasoned second-hand unit due to a crack in it at cylinder no. 2. I also installed a EGT probe at the same time. The manifold replacement is quite a job... The whole EGR system has to be removed, you then have to remove the downpipe of the exhaust and work your up due to the way the turbo is bolted onto the manifold. The whole turbo/manifold/dump-pipe assembly is then removed.

It took me about 3 hours to get the rusty 9 year old nuts off the exhaust and manifold (lots of penetrating oil helps), and all the coolant and oil feeds to the turbo are removed and tucked away. I then had the manifold and turbo unit out to swap the manifolds around.

"New" manifold with 1/8" NPT thread tapped for EGT.

Had had already drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT thread into the 'newer' manifold for the brass gland to accept the EGT probe - from MadMan. I drilled it in a position to measure the temperature where all the exhaust gasses combine before entering the turbo.

Another 2 hours later it was all bolted together, with copaslip on all the stud threads for easier removal in the future. I will connect the probe to the MadMan later this week and start monitoring the temps.

[RoelfleRoux]

Nick,

Hard start when hot: Don't you suspect the starter motor?

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[Nick Gibson]

Nick,

Hard start when hot: Don't you suspect the starter motor?

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Forum Runner

HI Roelf

I did suspect the starter, but I picked up that Skillie had a new/refurbished starter motor fitted a short while before I bought the Pajero from him, done by Mitspro. It swings the motor very quickly hot & cold, no difference I can pick up in RPM of starter motor. Sounds/feels like a fuel or lack thereof problem, if I give a bit of throttle while starting hot she takes, otherwise not...
I have checked - blocked breather(s) to fuel tank by leaving the fuel cap a half turn open, throttle butterfly setting, and now fuel filter.

She runs beautifully otherwise, no hesitation, smoke- just the hard hot starting issue

ps. I did the 2mm wastegate spacer mod as well while I had the turbo out - it throws a CEL under heavy/hard acceleration for high boost pressure - guess the turbo is running 100% as per spec for 245k km on the clock...

[RoelfleRoux]

Thanks for the response. Makes sense.

One other question: do you run 50 or 500ppm? My last DiD needed a few more swings from the starter when running on 50. That was with less than 60k on the clock.

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[Nick Gibson]

Thanks for the response. Makes sense.

One other question: do you run 50 or 500ppm? My last DiD needed a few more swings from the starter when running on 50. That was with less than 60k on the clock.

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Forum Runner

I understand the 4m41 prefers 500ppm diesel over 50ppm, but I struggle to find 500ppm down here near where I live & work in Cape Town (Durbanville to belville/stikland), none of the garages on my route to work carry it in stock (Caltex, Sasol, Engen, Shell)??

So unfortunately I have to run on 50ppm with 500ml of 2SO per fill-up of 90-110 liters diesel - I have a LR tank. I also am wary of the bulk discount diesel places that stock 500ppm - blending of paraffin is a big concern to me.

[Nick Gibson]

Darn... Pajero still struggles to start when hot

I am going to try a full tank of 500ppm Diesel with 500ml 2SO next time around to see if that helps at all, failing that I will have to pull the starter motor and see if all is OK with it. It still looks very clean and shiny (from the refurb service at Mitspro) when compared to the gunked up areas on the surrounding engine...

If that checks out I don't know what else to try, all online research points to starter motor giving hot starting issues due the the diesel filter being situated directly above it, and the diesel fuel spilt on it during filter changes/bleeding causes the hot starting problem.

[RoelfleRoux]

And then there is the battery as well....

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[Nick Gibson]

Thanks for the response. Makes sense.

One other question: do you run 50 or 500ppm? My last DiD needed a few more swings from the starter when running on 50. That was with less than 60k on the clock.

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Forum Runner

HI Roelf

I owe you a beer, I found a fuel station that still stocks 500ppm and filled up with 102 liters of 500ppm (with 500ml of JASO FC 2SO as per usual)...

Hot start problem GONE!! I can't believe the difference between the two diesel fuels. The engine is smoother, more powerful, has instantaneous startup hot and cold. Only worry I have is that there are fewer and fewer fuel stations seem to still be stocking 500ppm diesel nowadays.

Will have to do some reccies to plot where I can find it in the Cape town Northern 'burbs now.

[LowRange]

Busy weekend! 232500km Service done, new tyres fitted, new brakepads fitted front and rear, CAT removed!

Old timer runs like a new one from the showroom floor - ready for the December long haul!

Fitted Goodyear Wrangler AT/SA+ this time round. BF's did 90k kilos - could do a few more, but had to be replaced due to two serious cuts . Was going to fit them again, but they are just way too expensive now (Would double the value of the Pajero )

Anybody using the AT/SA+'s?

[Nick Gibson]

Solved my overboost CEL under hard acceleration. I first removed my airfilter box and both pipes feeding the compressor on the turbo to gain access to the pneumatic wastegate actuator can.

I previously did the 2mm wastegate spaced mod which initially caused the overboost CEL event, but unfortunately did not solve it when I removed the spacers again. I think when I fitted the spacers it pulled the actuator diaphragm into a gunked/dirty up section of the actuator jamming it slightly and preventing it from opening at 160 kPa as required.

Method to Unstick actuator:
I undid the 2 bolts holding the actuator to the turbo housing, and removed the short hose connecting it to the turbo. I then attached a longer hose to the actuator nipple and set my air compressor at 180-200 kPa (VERY NB otherwise you can rupture the diaphragm).
I then pressurised/depressurised the actuator very rapidly by blowing into the hose with the air compressor while spraying silicone aerosol spray into the hole where the actuator shaft enters the rear of the can to lubricate the innards. I did this for a good 5 minutes or so to make sure there was free movement of the diaphragm in the actuator at the required pressure - 160Kpa.

I then kept the actuator can pressurised at 180kPa, this allowed me to manually move the whole actuator assembly backwards and forwards to make sure there was no stickiness on the shaft or poppet valve (wastegate) in the turbo itself. Google - "Wastegate Wiggle"

EDIT: PLease note to only use a silicone spray or a rubber friendly lubricant, Q20,WD40 etc. has an oil base which attacks the rubber diaphragm, and will destroy it over time.

CAVEAT: Some folks say that once the silicone/lubricant spray dries out, it will cause possible issues again due to the residual stickiness. Use at your own risk.