[Nick Gibson]

Intake manifold Gasket on.

Intake Manifold gasket

Leak off rail with new gaskets

Leak off rail

Intake manifold & injector lines fitted. I blew very line out with compressed air make sure the fuel lines are pristine inside.

Intake manifold and injector lines fitted

Side view

Time to fit the exhaust manifold

Cleaning exhaust manifold flanges up

Clean

[Roelf_le_Roux]

I simply adore this thread. I'm going to be positively suicidal if this engine doesn't purr after all the detail, effort and care it is receiving.

[Nick Gibson]

I then started to fir the manifold. The first stud I torqued up snapped off.

Test fitting manifold

Did a quick extraction with a torx mini-socket and fitted a new stud.

Stud extraction

Engine off the stand and fitted the bell-housing adapter plate and flex plate.

Adapter & flex plate fitted

Ready to be dropped in...

Ready to be dropped in.

[4ePajero]

Respect!
Respect!
Respect!

Good luck with the start-up!

A bit late, but two questions:

1. What do you use on the manifold gaskets? I presume they are copper? I always use copper-slip on the very hot bits.
2. Would it not have been prudent to replace all the studs with SS, and use SS nuts (with copper-slip)?

[Nick Gibson]

Engine is in...

Engine dropped in

When I stripped the car there was a bolt missing in the torque converter/flex plate junction. It has a thinner than normal head to clear all the bolts in the bell housing, I could not find the same one, so I had to buy a normal sized bolt and cut the head thinner with a hack saw - a grinder would have heated the bolt up too much and thus damaged the composition of the 8.8 High Tensile steel used and thereby reducing its strength. Took me a while with a hack saw and hand file, but I managed.

[Nick Gibson]

Respect!
Respect!
Respect!

Good luck with the start-up!

A bit late, but two questions:

1. What do you use on the manifold gaskets? I presume they are copper? I always use copper-slip on the very hot bits.
2. Would it not have been prudent to replace all the studs with SS, and use SS nuts (with copper-slip)?

Thanks 4e snr.

The Victor Reinz re-build kit came with new gaskets for every thing, so I used the ones supplied. Absolutely every bolt on the exhaust manifold & turbo got a dob of copper compound applied, makes life a lot easier when you need to strip something again. I also applied to the intake studs as well for good measure, you can see the jar of copper compound in my "work-station" pic, on the table, luckily I got a whole jar from a passing mechanic on our site a short wile ago.

In retrospect perhaps I should have perhaps gone stainless steel studs, but the old ones looked pretty good - there was just one was a bit jammed in the old head -I think that is the one that snapped when torquing to 30Nm, the rest took the torque 100%. The nuts were high tensile as well, and also seemed in good condition.

[Nick Gibson]

I had labelled everything before disconnecting it, so just had to put the right plug in the right socket again.

Sorting the wiring out.

Fit the turbo and oil & coolant pipes to it.

Fitting the turbo

It took me a while to install all the goodies again, about 4 hours or so and to mkae sure I had not forgotten anything, and all the wires were routed correctly.

I filled up with oil, coolant and new oil filter. Left the glow plugs out and installed the battery...

[Nick Gibson]

Swung the motor twice for about 15 seconds to get the oil everywhere and to bleed the injectors.

Reinstalled the glow plugs and...

https://youtu.be/C7anD2NdbQ4

[4ePajero]

Whoohoo!

Sent by 4e, from my iPad using Forum Runner

[Nick Gibson]

I must say it caught me by surprise, I have read it sometimes take a good few swings to get a a diesel going after a rebuild... She caught instantly! Wanted to get a video of the first startup.

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