Recently when I start my Pajero in the morning it starts perfectly and as I pull out of the garage it sometimes begins to run a little rough, almost like plugs fouling ( if it were a petrol ) and then cuts out. I find that it will not start via the battery and starts then by dropping the clutch on the downhill, as I fortunately stay on the side of a hill. The motor invariably fires and great amounts of smoke come out of the exhaust for a few seconds and then she clears and runs as if nothing at all has happened. This only happens when the car is cold. If it were a petrol I would say the symptoms are of plugs fouling and then clearing and firing. When the engine is warm it starts normally.
This never used to happen but I have had the vehicle for close on 100,000km and I have not had the injectors or pump checked or set as it has not been necessary. I have read up onthe forum and consensus seems to be that if these things are working normally you leave them alone or is that wrong? Should they be reset and checked at various times?
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Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8
The dreaded pump seal problem.
Read all about it here:
http://pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11498
The parts are cheap, and with the above "How-to" it is a DIY fix.
Read all about it here:
http://pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11498
The parts are cheap, and with the above "How-to" it is a DIY fix.
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Site Admin
Unfortunately the link above is only available to POCUK members. I have created a PDF of this fix and it is available now available in the library4ePajero wrote:The dreaded pump seal problem.
Read all about it here:
http://pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11498
The parts are cheap, and with the above "How-to" it is a DIY fix.
Thanks 4e
Simon Bloomer
Affiliate Member
I am doing my brother's pump soon so will do a detailed write - up when I get to it and post here.
The more pics the better right?
The more pics the better right?
Hey guys,
thanks a lot for all the help. I see its a fairly technical DIY but I should be able to manage. I kept Landies on the road
so I have become somewhat adept at things mechanical - to a point.
Photos would be a great help!
Will it damage anything if I drive for a short while longer or is this something that requires immediate attention?
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Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8
thanks a lot for all the help. I see its a fairly technical DIY but I should be able to manage. I kept Landies on the road
so I have become somewhat adept at things mechanical - to a point. Photos would be a great help!
Will it damage anything if I drive for a short while longer or is this something that requires immediate attention?
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Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8
There are very good pictures in those links.Andre Plant wrote: Photos would be a great help!
Will it damage anything if I drive for a short while longer or is this something that requires immediate attention?
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Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8
The parts most likely to fail will be the battery of the starter.
Once this problem manifests, it tends to get progressively worse.
Last edited by 4ePajero on Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:41 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Reason: fixed quote
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Hi. In January of this year I possibly went "where angels fear" and bought a (2000 
) 2.8 'blister fender' (my first Paj) from a second-hand dealer in Centurion. I had the vehicle checked out first & was it found mechanically sound & compession on all cylinders good. The odo had 412km on it - the dealer explained that a "faulty" odo was replaced after buying the vehicle at a repo-auction 
.
I have since driven 14000km - btw Jhb & Centurion every work day & two long trips, Nelspruit & Greytown (MMC2010) & the vehicle has "purred" all the way, doing btw 10.2l & 10.6l / 100km.
Then the "miss" on a cold morning started
, and I feared the worst. Fortunately I read the 'weekly digest' from top to bottom, and came across Andre's post about the "2.8 cuts out when cold". I have down-loaded the PDF made available by SimonB & 4e, and will do the repair this week before traveling to the Natal south coast.
A question, does the 2.8 have any other inherent surprises up its sleaves or elsewhere that I should be aware of ? I'd appreciate any feedback.
I must just add how much I enjoy
the Pajero Club website & all contributors to the forums. You are a whole world of knowledge & information for a new owner like myself.
) 2.8 'blister fender' (my first Paj) from a second-hand dealer in Centurion. I had the vehicle checked out first & was it found mechanically sound & compession on all cylinders good. The odo had 412km on it - the dealer explained that a "faulty" odo was replaced after buying the vehicle at a repo-auction .I have since driven 14000km - btw Jhb & Centurion every work day & two long trips, Nelspruit & Greytown (MMC2010) & the vehicle has "purred" all the way, doing btw 10.2l & 10.6l / 100km.
Then the "miss" on a cold morning started
, and I feared the worst. Fortunately I read the 'weekly digest' from top to bottom, and came across Andre's post about the "2.8 cuts out when cold". I have down-loaded the PDF made available by SimonB & 4e, and will do the repair this week before traveling to the Natal south coast.A question, does the 2.8 have any other inherent surprises up its sleaves or elsewhere that I should be aware of ? I'd appreciate any feedback.
I must just add how much I enjoy
the Pajero Club website & all contributors to the forums. You are a whole world of knowledge & information for a new owner like myself. The 4m40 engine has a reputation for cracking it's cylinder head. This happens (for unknown reasons) more often in the L200 / Colt / Rodeo than in the Pajeros.
Three pieces of advice:
Three pieces of advice:
- make sure your cooling system is 100% (radiator in good nick, Mitsu thermostat and best coolant you can buy)
- fit an EGT (Exhaust gas temperature) guage and drive in a manner that will keep EGTs low
- have the diesel pump calibration checked on a regular basis. High EGTs will show when.
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Site Admin
I thought it was because the Pajero's cooling system is beefier?4ePajero wrote:The 4m40 engine has a reputation for cracking it's cylinder head. This happens (for unknown reasons) more often in the L200 / Colt / Rodeo than in the Pajeros.
Also the Colt has a single timing chain but not sure what difference it would make i.r.o. cracked heads.
Simon Bloomer
Hello it's me again, Rodger.
Thanks for the quick feed-back & advise.
I have now started the quest of acquiring the replacement seal(s) I need to remedy the 'dreaded top seal leak', but Mitsubishi in Midrand parts division says there's no kit for the pump - I must go to a diesel pump specialist.
Can this be true ? - I would like to install genuine parts !
I tried my best to explain to the Mitsu spares salesman what I need according to the downloaded PDF, but to no avail.
Any suggestions on who I should turn to and what I should be asking for
Thanks for the quick feed-back & advise.
I have now started the quest of acquiring the replacement seal(s) I need to remedy the 'dreaded top seal leak', but Mitsubishi in Midrand parts division says there's no kit for the pump - I must go to a diesel pump specialist.
Can this be true ? - I would like to install genuine parts !
I tried my best to explain to the Mitsu spares salesman what I need according to the downloaded PDF, but to no avail.
Any suggestions on who I should turn to and what I should be asking for