ABS pump

[witblits]

I have a 2007 SWB 3.2 diesel with 195000 on th e clock. ABS pump with diff lock has broken down R60k to replace with new. Any help/advice on where to get a replacement 2nd hand or recon part?

[hend]

Try this

https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/sh ... ump-repair

Danie


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MMC 3.5 V6]

Hi,

I had the same problem in Cape Town and was solved quite easily (after overcoming the horror of a hearing the new OEM part is R38k). The ABS pump's other name is the HBB unit pump (Hydraulic Brake Booster Pump).

There is a rewinder in Klapmuts in Cape Town that keeps the commutators of the little motor on the HBB in stock. (Kasper +27 82 782 1884). Your alternative is to order a complete new armature from Italy, or the complete motor also from Italy on eBay. But at ~R1800 and some elbow grease I was happy. After some calculations on import duties and other costs, the repair option was by far the easiest, fastest and cheapest solution.

The link and Post above in 4x4 community is a good layout / description of what they look like. Apparently, it is the same Aisin HBB unit as that what is found in the Landcruisers. On mine the brake light came on and pretty much you have 1-2 km to find a safe spot to stop, because then the brakes become so hard you cant brake anymore. The little motor driving the hydraulics does a lot of work to help you to brake. I have however seen the Africa imported basic spec Pajeros have a normal Brake booster in, but I think they don't have the same towing capacity as brakes with HBB.

Removing the pump was easy, just be sure to get a nice piece of clear plastic bag in underneath the HBB unit to prevent the Hydraulic fluid from damaging your paint. Do not reuse the same brake fluid that you remove. Buy 2 x 500ml new fluid.

You have to remove the whole HBB unit, as the motor bolts are not accessible in-situ. It also has small drive coupling that would be impossible to get back with the HBB unit in place.

Also, just remove the Air-cleaner box and pipes first. (otherwise your will struggle.) The Main pin and spring clip linking the brake booster to the brake peddle below the dash and 4 small nuts is your last difficulty (difficult to twist your body under the dash to get to them. Remove the driver seat for easier access. It is actually quite quick to remove.

Putting it back goes fairly quick. the biggest pain is the pipes that get stuck and hook onto everything you trying to squeeze past. You should take a couple of pictures before stripping. BE VERY careful to turn in the hydraulic couplers into the HBB unit straight. If you cross thread them, you are in for BIG money.

Once all assembled and running you can fill the reservoir and bleed the brakes.

I bled the brakes starting from the furthest wheel and ended with the closest tot he HBB unit. (Start bleeding without the main engine running. - Ignition off). The brakes are very hard then. I think the ABS only works on the front wheels, because we were able to bleed only bleed the rear effectively like this.

Then switch on the ignition and start the pump. (no engine running). ...Listen to that sweet sound of the motor running.. Wait for the pump to complete its first run cycle and stop. Repeat the bleed process with the ignition on. Bleed from furthest to closest again. Then you can drive slowly and find a open & safe gravel road.

You then drive and repeatedly brake hard, so that the ABS kicks in and you feel ABS kicking in consistently. I did this 10-15 times, until I was happy the brakes and ABS works fine again.

Hope this helps someone,

Repair-Kit-ABS-PAJERO-MR407202 - Mtec Electronics in Italy
Complete HBB unit - Mitsubishi Part number MN102843 (shown as 54242 in their diagrams)

Best Repair instruction
You Can Laugh – 4WD Pajeroclub Australia
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sh ... ight=brake
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sh ... hp?t=64207

Repair Videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrsXN6h ... e=youtu.be
https://youtu.be/vrsXN6hy-JM

[malcolmp]

Hello All

Gen 4 2010 model Pajero 3.2 DiD.

First the HBB was making a bird singing noise when braking. Got the shock of new Accumulator and the long delivery time, and took it to a service centre who said they could have them repaired.

Short story, they said the motor was faulty, had thrown the magnets, and they could repair the magnets and all might be OK. Then after the pump repair, they said they could not clear the fault on the computer and the pump did not seems to work as well as expected.

I found a friend who had exchanged his unit for another HBB, he offered his used parts to help the service centre put mine together with donor parts from both. It worked, the noise was gone and I was smiling.

About 2 months down the line, long beep in the car and 4 lights on about the brakes. So - armed with the spare motor and accumulator, I venture into taking a look myself after reading the Aus forum post, which is an awesome step by step guide.

I test the relays - both work as explained in the tut. Remove the unit, test the motor - straight to 12V - the motor works! Then I test my old motor, and it works as well! So I think, if both work as well, maybe my one with the re-attached magnets might work, or at least narrow my fault diagnosis a bit.

Fit my old motor, put unit back, still beeps - but I listen for the motor and hear it switches on as in the tut., but it only lasts for 5 seconds and switches off, then on again and then off, and it continues doing this.

So take the car back to the service centre, and ask them to hook it up to the computer reader - it reports faults on the brakes, but once reset, it only reports the motor faulty. I explain everything and ask them to pout the friends motor back in, as it seems my motor is obviously really finished. They take three full days, but they finish today.

They put it in and took it for a drive and then put it on the computer reader, all brake faults are back, but they say the motor is bad and therefore the other parts of the brake HBB report issues - which is understandable.

Now when I switch the car on - the motor does not start at all, but I can hear the relays kicking in every now and then, but the motor is dead. Obviously, the break driving the car home were just about non-existent.

My questions:

Do you think it is still the motor?
Should I ship this motor, or both to Cape Town to the guys recommended on this forum?
If the motor works with 12V on the bench, surely it should still work in the car?
Where can I get spares, other than the replacement at Mitsubishi?
Any other ideas?
Is there a Pajero mechanic that is highly recommended in Durban?

My next step is to remove the unit and open the motor to look for an obvious fault - like magnets or copper strip missing etc. Then if buggered send it for repairs and then put back in to test again.

Any advice, ideas etc will be very welcome.

[MMC 3.5 V6]

Hi.
First of all, I dont know about the magnets. I never saw them.
As far as I know you test the relays and next you have to remove the Aisin HBB unit from the car.
Then you can remove the motor.
The little motor has a copper segment commutator (which becomes worn and can have dead segments) and brushes similar to your drilling machine.)

With dead segments the motor sometimes runs and sometimes not, depending if the motor stopped with the brush on a dead segment.
After my motor repair (see Casper in Cape Town, he keeps spare new commutators as this HBB apparently also fits on the LC Prados). Overhauling the motor was by far the cheapest. The rest was just bit of sweat and then some money for new brakefluid.
I had to put the motor back twice, because I misaligned the small drive coupling with the cross in
After fixing my mistake it ran perfect.

I only ran the motor briefly in the beginning after completing the installation. Then manually pumped and bled the brakes. ( which only is effective on the rear without the pump running). Then bleed again with the pump running. I never had to use the computer to clear the fault, but I have a Gen 3.

Thereafter you bleed the abs by finding a safe open gravel road and stepping on the brakes hard to activate the abs . I did this many times plus some more in forward and reversing until I was happy all air was cleared and the brakes work 100%.
Are you sure you dont have damage on the one or more of your abs sensors on the wheels?. If someone worked on your lower control arm ball joints they can damage the sensor or wire if they are careless.

[malcolmp]

@ MMC 3.5 V6 - you are a champion for replying. Most appreciated.

I will check the motor when I take it out tomorrow. And then if needed will get hold of the friendly Casper.

Cheers
Malcolm

[malcolmp]

Feedback...

Took the unit off, removed the motor and opened it. As you can see by the pictures, the copper contact sections are warn away - I would imagine it worked sometimes, if it was on a piece of copper and then would spin as the momentum would help moving it.

My thought it to take the rotating stator part from my motor which is still ok and insert it into this motor housing and magnets.

My motor where they re-epoxied the magnets, I am thinking that they may have replaced the magnets and also maybe the positioning of the magnets is not as per the original and that is why it did not run properly.

[MMC 3.5 V6]

Yip, looking at the condition of your motor's inside, I think its where your problems are.
The commutator should be nice and clean colour copper. Black segments may mean the copper has been worn away. You should measure the resistance between 180 deg opposite segments. Then advance one segment at a time an measure to the opposite one. All ohm readings should read the same. If they read much different, you should have the ccummutator replaced.

[MMC 3.5 V6]

Yip, looking at the condition of your motor's inside, I think its where your problems are.
The commutator should be nice an cleand clean copper. You should measure the resistance between 180 deg opposite segments. Then advance one segment at a time an measure to the opposite one. All ohm readings should read the same.

Your commutator segments seem completely worn away. I see only black and no separation where the copper should be and the insulation inbetween. Replace.

[malcolmp]

Thanks MMC - Going to put the best of two motors together today and see the outcome. The brushes on the motor with the segments missing are very worn, so I might use the front plate from my motor as well.

Appreciate the input.