[Goldmember]

HI ALL
Anyone who may have followed an earlier post of mine where I was struggling with the above issues, may like to hear that the problem was solved.

Whilst I'm not sorry I changed the heat sender unit, and the thermostat (the thermostat definitely was not working as it should, was damaged visibly) - it turned out to be the CCT board (R1,499 from MITSU - install it yourself it takes 3 min)

So thank you to all those who gave advice and tips, I seem to recall that CATS might have been spot on with the suggestion - where lots of Aussie vans have the same issue. Thanks.

It's now been 10 days, and 1,500km without issue. (previously the longest was a couple of hours!) So in my book, problem solved! BOTH AT ONCE!

[malcolmb]

Hi Guys

I have just joined and found the exact problem I have had for the last year. My temp guage jumps all over the place, mainly showing very hot for extended periods. We have changed the temp controller etc. I will get a PCB as suggested. Please advise, what happens to the odometer reading when you chang the PCB? Where is the PCB located, how do you get to it?

Thanks for the help
Malcolm

[Goldmember]

Hi Guys

I have just joined and found the exact problem I have had for the last year. My temp guage jumps all over the place, mainly showing very hot for extended periods. We have changed the temp controller etc. I will get a PCB as suggested. Please advise, what happens to the odometer reading when you chang the PCB? Where is the PCB located, how do you get to it?

Thanks for the help
Malcolm

Hi Malcolm
Welcome. I've not been here very long myself, but everyone has been very helpful and welcoming.

The odometer reading resets to ZERO, I didn't check where you were from, but here in Cape Town at Mitsu, they gave me the name and number of a chap who can re-program the new board with the old boards reading.
It literally takes about 60 seconds, literally (once you've done it twice) to access the "PCB".
Steps:
1. Lower your steering wheel with the release catch under it.
2. Use a shorty philips screwdriver - there are two screws on the soffit of the dash board (where your speedo etc is)
3. Once the two screws are out, then remove this section - at the bottom of the piece you are wanting to remove you will note two little holes, both facing inwards towards the centre of your dash display - stick your two fingers in here and pull - (there are two plastic clips that will break otherwise) should come out fairly easily
4. There are now 4 screws which hold in the next piece of dash (it's the piece which holds the whole lot together - the above piece you removed was merely cosmetic). This piece has no catches or clips, it just comes out easily. But take it out slowly and with care as this piece has all of the electronic plugs into the back of it from the ECU.
5. Once removed you will see a blue printed panel across the whole back of the unit. THIS ISN'T THE PCB, I thought it was - but I was wrong.
6. You'll note that there is a white plastic panel, also held in with 6 (smaller) philips screws. This entire little thing is the PCB you have been searching for. Take 6 screws out, remove carefully, and install new one all in reverse.
7. BIG TIP:
Once you have installed the new PCB and you're feeling very hopeful and cheerful - don't.
Remove the front plastic/clear perspex panel of the dash console (the physical unit with the blue printed panel, the one you've been holding in your hands since step 4). Once the glass is off, take a small piece of cloth and put it over the odometer LED panel, use your two thumbs and apply even pressure across this panel, you should hear 4 or more little clicks.
Once that is done, then take your finger and move the speedo lever, and the rev lever - both should fall back to zero very smoothly. If they don't it means irritation (I found this out after re-installing everything, taking it for a drive - realizing there was a problem, taking it all out again, then checking the PCB wasn't screwed in too tightly, then re-installing it all again, going for a drive to find the same problem!)
The above 'clicks' at the odometer panel should rectify not dropping to zero smoothly, and also ensure that the odometer reads properly, I also uninstalled everything because the panel was displaying giberish.

Call Mitsu, and tell them your engine number. My motor is a 4M4Y motor, they need to know this.

The workshop manual is also downloadable on this site, and it basically gives you (with pretty pictures) about 50% of the above info. (none of the irritation saving stuff of the clicks and tricks!)

And hopefully that's that. It should be smooth and easy, if you follow the steps. I literally, because I've opened and closed it probably close on 12 times, can do it now in about 45 seconds! Hope you only have to do it once and it takes you 5 minutes!!!

[gaz1]

At last! The answer to why my speedo has been jumping around and not returning to zero.

I'm located in Australia and have posted questions on the Victorian forum here and on a Montero forum in the US without any responses.

I pulled my instrument cluster out to check on some illumination globes and made the mistake of removing the PCB to see if there were any hidden in behind there - zero.

But when I reassembled it all, the speedo problems began. I've removed and replaced it several times since, trying different things to resolve the problem to no avail.

Now Goldmember's description of the process of removing the clear plastic cover and pressing on the dial near the odometer has solved it - and saved me from a possible extortion attempt by a MM dealer or an instrument maker.

[Goldmember]

At last! The answer to why my speedo has been jumping around and not returning to zero.

I'm located in Australia and have posted questions on the Victorian forum here and on a Montero forum in the US without any responses.

I pulled my instrument cluster out to check on some illumination globes and made the mistake of removing the PCB to see if there were any hidden in behind there - zero.

But when I reassembled it all, the speedo problems began. I've removed and replaced it several times since, trying different things to resolve the problem to no avail.

Now Goldmember's description of the process of removing the clear plastic cover and pressing on the dial near the odometer has solved it - and saved me from a possible extortion attempt by a MM dealer or an instrument maker.

Glad I could help!
Us South African are also happy to train your cricket and rugby teams if you like... he he he
all the best

[gaz1]

Well after what the All Blacks did to us last weekend, we may be beyond help!
Gaz

[Goldmember]

Well after what the All Blacks did to us last weekend, we may be beyond help!
Gaz

...yeah, they're a fierce bunch those island dwellers...

[taylormj]

Has any one been able to find a circuit diagram for this PCB. Or any indication is there is a place that can repair them. or do we have to fork out the cash at MM?

[Davidvan]

Taylor,

I had the same issue, I tried a repair on the board (not myself by through Hatting Motors), but with no success. The guys on the aussie forums also indicate a difficult fix, I did give my old board for the guys to see if they could fix it, I will see if I can get some feedback if they ever got this done or got it working.

Cheers

David

[taylormj]

Hi David

Would be nice to know if it worked. In the mean time with the temp going up and down. I have now discovered on Friday that I popped the head gasket. So I have the motor open and am doing the repair.

tar
Taylor