Reading this post with interest because I have just bought a 2006 3.2. In the week that I have been driving it the warning lights (ASC) that are mentioned have flashed on for a short period on 2 separate occasions. Tar roads, dry conditions, high speed, under load.
Can someone please 'direct' me to the sensor and tube as described in the easier posts, I need to go investigate their condition.
thanks
James
Howdy dirtyB.
Sorry for the delayed response gosh damn, been a while since I checked my mail notifications.
Anyway,
Here is an image in this forum topic. post 15 (also attached it)
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... p?p=178435
If you can see the blue plastic bit of the sensor on the right edge of the image, that's the map sensor.
It has a tube which connects to the manifold. Get yourself some extra clamps after checking the size of the ones already on the tube. Then, clean or replace the tube and fasten it wherever you can with the extra clamps you got at autozone/midas. Make sure you check that it's fastened everywhere, I added extra clamps, have not had the error codes or warning lights or limp mode return in 7500km now.
Hope it helps.
Sorry for the delayed response gosh damn, been a while since I checked my mail notifications.
Anyway,
Here is an image in this forum topic. post 15 (also attached it)
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... p?p=178435
If you can see the blue plastic bit of the sensor on the right edge of the image, that's the map sensor.
It has a tube which connects to the manifold. Get yourself some extra clamps after checking the size of the ones already on the tube. Then, clean or replace the tube and fasten it wherever you can with the extra clamps you got at autozone/midas. Make sure you check that it's fastened everywhere, I added extra clamps, have not had the error codes or warning lights or limp mode return in 7500km now.
Hope it helps.
Attachments:
Mighty kind of you Sir.
Now I know where to look. I will whip it off and have a look at the first daylight chance I get.
It will be interesting to see if it has any effect on performance and/or consumption.
Now I know where to look. I will whip it off and have a look at the first daylight chance I get.
It will be interesting to see if it has any effect on performance and/or consumption.
Ok, so yesterday I had a 5min window to have a looksee under the bonnet.
Thanks to the previous posts and pics I identified the part and did the following: Please comment if any of my logic seems wrong.
Firstly I disconnected the rubber pipe at one end and started the car. The amber Engine 'Problem' light came on.
I shut down the engine and took the pipe off completely. Tried to blow through it with my mouth and it felt quite restricted.
There was a spring clip securing it at both ends and also various clips holding it in position along its path. Some of these clips distort the pipe and I imagine if its got some soot residue built up in it it would start having a detrimental effect.
I put it back and had to go out. Took this oportunity to floor the vehicle on a long uphill. I briefly got only the one traction control light to flicker, but not the ASC ON/OFF one which did come on in the past, so maybe just by fiddling and blowing down the pipe I have made it slightly better.
Anyway I have decided that the best thing is for me to buy a new rubber pipe because cleaning the existing one could damage the pipe plus the current one is old and probably a bit brittle anyway.
Now, what does one do about cleaning the bits at either end?
At the manifold end I have seen comments about sticking a piece of wire in the hole to loosen up the soot. Is this advisable, is there anything inside the I could damage? Do I and how easy is it to take this thing off to clean, do I use any solvents ?
At the other end is the MAP sensor which must convert vacumn/pressure into an electronic signal so I dont see how I can safelty 'clean' that end.
I have seen on some sites that you can buy an aeresol MAF cleaner. Can you get that here ? Can I use that to clean the MAP sensor and the thing bolted into the manifold ?
Your input would be much appreciated
Thank you
Thanks to the previous posts and pics I identified the part and did the following: Please comment if any of my logic seems wrong.
Firstly I disconnected the rubber pipe at one end and started the car. The amber Engine 'Problem' light came on.
I shut down the engine and took the pipe off completely. Tried to blow through it with my mouth and it felt quite restricted.
There was a spring clip securing it at both ends and also various clips holding it in position along its path. Some of these clips distort the pipe and I imagine if its got some soot residue built up in it it would start having a detrimental effect.
I put it back and had to go out. Took this oportunity to floor the vehicle on a long uphill. I briefly got only the one traction control light to flicker, but not the ASC ON/OFF one which did come on in the past, so maybe just by fiddling and blowing down the pipe I have made it slightly better.
Anyway I have decided that the best thing is for me to buy a new rubber pipe because cleaning the existing one could damage the pipe plus the current one is old and probably a bit brittle anyway.
Now, what does one do about cleaning the bits at either end?
At the manifold end I have seen comments about sticking a piece of wire in the hole to loosen up the soot. Is this advisable, is there anything inside the I could damage? Do I and how easy is it to take this thing off to clean, do I use any solvents ?
At the other end is the MAP sensor which must convert vacumn/pressure into an electronic signal so I dont see how I can safelty 'clean' that end.
I have seen on some sites that you can buy an aeresol MAF cleaner. Can you get that here ? Can I use that to clean the MAP sensor and the thing bolted into the manifold ?
Your input would be much appreciated
Thank you
Hello again,
Well I can only share what my own experience was so here goes.
Cleaning the pipe
I cleaned the pipe by running a piece of damp string through it and having someone hold it while I moved the string from side to side, then let it dry.
Replacing the pipe (after realizing how soft it got while running)
I later figured out that the pipe was getting warm and thus expanding where it meets the manifold port (nozzle) and then let some pressure escape. So replaced it, guess you could do the same if mere cleaning doesn't sort it out.
Cleaning the map sensor.
You can take it off and check it I suppose, I did with mine, there was very little to clean though, I basically just gave it a 20 second once over with a toothbrush and an earbud.
The wire and the manifold.
I stuck the wire in there mainly to clear any carbon directly inside the port itself. There was some but not too much, obviously a piece of wire is not the best tool for the job, you'd have to clean the whole manifold if you were intending on getting rid of all carbon buildup. Ouch, big job, probably best left to a tech and a wad of cash unless you're very much inclined to do it yourself.
Final thoughts
you need to identify whether there are any NEW codes registered after this procedure so clear the ECU, either taking to someone with the correct scanner or by diy i.e. Park car on completely level surface, with wheels straight aligned. Disconnecting the battery and wait 1 and a 1/2 to 2 hours (read on the forums to see other's experience with the waiting period). Then reconnect battery. The ASC light will be on when you start the car at this point because the ECU and ASC system has no idea what driving in a straight line means (since you erased the memory). Now take the car for a bit of a drive, my ASC switches off between 50 and 200 meters down the road depending on how long it takes the car to relearn.
Then basically wait and see. Don't reset the trip meter so you can figure our how far you've driven without the limp mode coming back. If it does come back you need to get the error codes read so you can get additional pointers so good luck. I hope your problem is as simple and cheap to fix as mine was.
Well I can only share what my own experience was so here goes.
Cleaning the pipe
I cleaned the pipe by running a piece of damp string through it and having someone hold it while I moved the string from side to side, then let it dry.
Replacing the pipe (after realizing how soft it got while running)
I later figured out that the pipe was getting warm and thus expanding where it meets the manifold port (nozzle) and then let some pressure escape. So replaced it, guess you could do the same if mere cleaning doesn't sort it out.
Cleaning the map sensor.
You can take it off and check it I suppose, I did with mine, there was very little to clean though, I basically just gave it a 20 second once over with a toothbrush and an earbud.
The wire and the manifold.
I stuck the wire in there mainly to clear any carbon directly inside the port itself. There was some but not too much, obviously a piece of wire is not the best tool for the job, you'd have to clean the whole manifold if you were intending on getting rid of all carbon buildup. Ouch, big job, probably best left to a tech and a wad of cash unless you're very much inclined to do it yourself.
Final thoughts
you need to identify whether there are any NEW codes registered after this procedure so clear the ECU, either taking to someone with the correct scanner or by diy i.e. Park car on completely level surface, with wheels straight aligned. Disconnecting the battery and wait 1 and a 1/2 to 2 hours (read on the forums to see other's experience with the waiting period). Then reconnect battery. The ASC light will be on when you start the car at this point because the ECU and ASC system has no idea what driving in a straight line means (since you erased the memory). Now take the car for a bit of a drive, my ASC switches off between 50 and 200 meters down the road depending on how long it takes the car to relearn.
Then basically wait and see. Don't reset the trip meter so you can figure our how far you've driven without the limp mode coming back. If it does come back you need to get the error codes read so you can get additional pointers so good luck. I hope your problem is as simple and cheap to fix as mine was.
So last night I took the rubber hose off and ran a length of wire through it expecting to clear out a pile of soot and oily gunk. With white surface and camera at the ready, imagine my dissapointment when the wire came out clean.
I was hoping to clear a blockage and enjoy Warp Factor 5 performance.
I put it all back together and have to accept that the current status of no warning lights and Warp Factor 4 speed is normal.
I was hoping to clear a blockage and enjoy Warp Factor 5 performance.
I put it all back together and have to accept that the current status of no warning lights and Warp Factor 4 speed is normal.
hi everyone, is this not a great forum to belong to? - bought a 'new' 2007 gen 4 with exact same intermittent problem - ASC=on and Engine Management light=on. i didn't do anything yet - just checked the pipe and looked OK - will replace anyway, otherwise it must be the MAP 
sensor?
sensor?Sound advice, if you want to enter in a BBBEE business venture? Think twice! Make sure your i's are dotted and t's are crossed 
Loved the description and could just picture your faceDirty Boy wrote: I was hoping to clear a blockage and enjoy Warp Factor 5 performance.
I put it all back together and have to accept that the current status of no warning lights and Warp Factor 4 speed is normal.
CATS
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2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
hoping its not your map but yes, could be... suppose only getting the codes read would tell you for certain whether the MAP has anything to do with it. The diagnostics on mine indicated the MAP sensor but the cheap fix has eliminated the problem for me anyway. Note, the pipe on mine looked just fine also.. run it till the warnings switch on, then check. pipe might be getting soft cos of heat and letting air escape on one of the ends...deonengel wrote:hi everyone, is this not a great forum to belong to? - bought a 'new' 2007 gen 4 with exact same intermittent problem - ASC=on and Engine Management light=on. i didn't do anything yet - just checked the pipe and looked OK - will replace anyway, otherwise it must be the MAP
hi all, i hope this is not useless information but i also found this: "It senses Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP). The vehicle computer calculates how much fuel to deliver to the engine based on the amount of load being applied to the engine. The computer uses manifold pressure, barometric pressure, engine RPM and throttle angle to determine engine load. Fuel ratio and spark timing are then fine tuned by the computer using additional sensors, this also helps to control fuel economy and emissions. Some vehicles use a Mass Air Flow sensor to measure the amount of air entering the engine, this also is used to determine engine load, in some cases there may be a MAP sensor and a MAF sensor. In that configuration the MAP is used for Barometric pressure and is a back up should the MAF fail, the computer will illuminate the Service Engine Soon lamp and use a calculated air fuel mixture to allow the driver to get to a repair shop without damaging the catalytic converter.
The MAP sensor doubles as a barometric sensor. The computer will read barometric pressure when the key is turned on prior to engine cranking and then every time the computer senses wide open throttle it will check Baro pressure again."
i hop it is of some value
regards
The MAP sensor doubles as a barometric sensor. The computer will read barometric pressure when the key is turned on prior to engine cranking and then every time the computer senses wide open throttle it will check Baro pressure again."
i hop it is of some value
regards
Sound advice, if you want to enter in a BBBEE business venture? Think twice! Make sure your i's are dotted and t's are crossed