Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Hi Nick
Sorry to hear about your troubles. My first advice is DO NOT REBUILD. Do a Lexus V8 conversion or replacement motor from Martin / Parthunt. I have heard very few success stories on the rebuilds and my own experience is an equal disaster story.

If you do decided to rebuild, go to a reputable workshop who will guarantee all the work. My one rebuilt lasted just long enough to be out of "warranty". The 2nd time, I ended up with a holed piston and "not part of warranty"

After spending a fortune, I met a fleet owner running Colts and he confirmed that in his own experience there are very few mechanic who can successfully open up the Mitso diesel motor. This is passably linked to the torqueing requirements of the head. Torque, torque and torque again. (Maybe we should all re torque the engine on 200 000 kms just as an preventative measure?)

Also check on who is actually doing the work if you do rebuild. It's great having a fantastic mechanic who know is stuff, only to find out that the actual grind work is delegated out to a slightly goofed appie, still hung over from the weekend!

Hey Nick - no advise from my side. just wishing you all of the luck forward.

GK

Hi Nick
The moment one see that white "smoke"(steam) on your exhaust, you know that the writing is on the wall and you have to dig deeper than just the surface and believe me, none of us want to be there!!
Nevertheless, the best advice given to you came from Rockcrawler.
You are there now, bite the bullet and do the full monty as rockcrawler has suggested.
The "Thing" that you must not rebuild, is nonsence(Excuse my french). If every owner of a truck, tractor and whatever, using a diesel engine, must buy second hand engines, I would have been in that market. And we are only using another diesel engine.
The other fact is that the industry is having troubles with the shortage of proper trained artisans and therefore a reputable re-builder might be hard to find.
My condolences that your next holiday might not happen due to re-allocation of funds, but do the right thing now and you will see a lot more kilos coming from your vehicle.
Vasbyt!!

OK, More feedback.

I had some time yesterday to go to Basticks Engineering in Woodstock (closest to my work), to have my head checked out. I spoke to a very helpful and friendly chap called Ron MacFarlane.

He had a look at the head and gasket, and said that it looked very good condition, you would not even be able to tell that I had damage to the engine or a cracked sleeve. The technician then polished up the small spaces between the valves with an air-tool and said that there are no signs of damage, cavitation of coolant or cracking between the valves. I requested a pressure test on the head in any case just to be sure. They also put a straight edge to the face and said it does not even require a light skim, not warping or distortion. I am getting the results today, holding thumbs the head checks out.

He also said he had never seen anything like my cracked sleeve before on a 4m41 block in his years at the shop, and also said the 4m41 blocks are bulletproof, and could not venture a guess as to why it happened in the first place. He needs to remove the sleeve entirely to have a better look.

I then went to CL diesel to have my injectors checked again, and they are still the same as earlier in the year, pop pressures are good, although still slightly low, but no dripping, 'pee-ing' or poor atomisation of fuel. I took a video of the test for interest sake, you can hear the 'chatter' of the needle in the injector which is apparently a good sign.

See here:
https://youtu.be/kJ-OqsPlN7A

Here is the spec for the pop pressure for each needle lift opening stage.

They also did a test of a dud injector off a perkins motor, see how the stream does not atomise correctly into a fine spray.
Here:
https://youtu.be/T87PqVb9y6s

ps. Please can some-one help me insert a Youtube video into a message? The BB function does not work for me...

Good signs so far Nick.

Holding thumbs.

CATS
PS - Will check out your videos at home tonight.

Nick,

I echo Kobus Louws sentiments about overhauling an engine. It can be done and if properly done, the "new" engine will be as good as a new factory engine. The qualifying factor is that the person(s) who work on the engine MUST know what he (they) is (are) doing. Any person who can read and who has a proper (factory) manual can do the job with the proviso that the machine work is done properly. However, if time is a factor, then the professional way is the way to go. It takes time for a novice to read the book, find the correct part, "play" around with it to find the correct assembly place and sequence and then to install the part. I overhauled a few V8 engines (both Chev and Ford) for myself and was and still is totally satisfied with the end results AND the money saved.

If I may make a suggestion: Why don't you contact Jake Venter - he is the technical guy writing in Leisure Wheels - and ask him to venture a guest as to the reason for the cracked cylinder. He is a Mechanical Engineer, very interested in cars and engines and used to be the Technical Editor for CAR magazine. He is very knowledgeable and willing to assist.
Sidebar: If you do decide to contact him, ask for his opinion on chipping and dyno readouts.

Cloyd

cloyd wrote:Nick,

I echo Kobus Louws sentiments about overhauling an engine. It can be done and if properly done, the "new" engine will be as good as a new factory engine. The qualifying factor is that the person(s) who work on the engine MUST know what he (they) is (are) doing. Any person who can read and who has a proper (factory) manual can do the job with the proviso that the machine work is done properly. However, if time is a factor, then the professional way is the way to go. It takes time for a novice to read the book, find the correct part, "play" around with it to find the correct assembly place and sequence and then to install the part. I overhauled a few V8 engines (both Chev and Ford) for myself and was and still is totally satisfied with the end results AND the money saved.

If I may make a suggestion: Why don't you contact Jake Venter - he is the technical guy writing in Leisure Wheels - and ask him to venture a guest as to the reason for the cracked cylinder. He is a Mechanical Engineer, very interested in cars and engines and used to be the Technical Editor for CAR magazine. He is very knowledgeable and willing to assist.
Sidebar: If you do decide to contact him, ask for his opinion on chipping and dyno readouts.

Cloyd

Thanks cloyd.
I have spent many hours going over the very detailed 4m41 engine overhaul service manual and although daunting at first, I believe if you follow the spec and tolerance to the T, one should be able to put it back together correctly as mitsubishi intended.

At this stage I am swaying towards a rebuild, as I have just heard my head is 100% after the pressure test. I also have no guarantees on the condition and life of the second hand motors, which are more than double the price of a rebuild and have between 170-200k km on them. Also i don't know for 100% if they came from a rolled car or a frontal smash causing untold damage to the insides of the engine.

I will pull my motor this weekend with a loaned engine crane. Adendorfs has a 450kg rated engine stand for R700 which will make my like a little easier for reassembly and thorough tolerance and torque checking before putting back into the car.

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I have to support the idea of rebuilding the engine, especially since the rest of the engine seems to be in good condition.
With the right attention to the spec, a re-built engine is as good as a new engine.
Please don't consider the Lexus V-8 option.
It might be a 'good' engine, but won't be the same as a 4m41! (IMHO)

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I dont know. I would personally get a low mileage later model common rail BK complete engine with all the computers etc and build that in. But if you get a hands on rebuilder or if you can do it yourself I suppose that could work.

CATS

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CATS wrote:I dont know. I would personally get a low mileage later model common rail BK complete engine with all the computers etc and build that in. But if you get a hands on rebuilder or if you can do it yourself I suppose that could work.

CATS

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Hi cats.

That thought has crossed my mind, however my van has electronic stability aids incorporated (asc, traction control, etc) which communicate with the engine ecu. I doubt the newer engine ecu would talk to the older 4x4 ecu's. And that is the same reason why I won't go the lexus route either, I want my pajero to operate as it should, ie. Cruise control, traction control, tiptronic auto functions, automatic gearbox box, active stability control... All these things communicate with the 3.2 DiD ecu for information or instructions.

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