Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

I remember some local SWB 3.2's had factory dual batteries!

I remember some local SWB 3.2's had factory dual batteries!

Yes that is correct. It happened by mistake that two shipments arrived in 2004 with the dual batteries. The dual battery option is really only for countries where freezing temperatures are common in winter. My car came out like that and I subsequently changed the one standard battery for a 102Ah deep cycle and installed a national Luna split charger .

I have photos of bracets made for my Gen 3. dont know how to send them in yet.Have mailed them
to Cloyd.

4ePajero wrote:After all the discussions on numerous forums, I am convinced if a few things:

• A portable battery box (eg the NL one) is better (for my use) than a fitted 2nd battery. The fact that you can carry it into your (or somebody else's) tent/caravan/house gives you so much more flexibility
• a DC-DC charger is the way to go. If your vehicle does not have a 20A cigarette / Hella plug in the load area, install one. No thick cables and batteries that won't fully charge. The battery can even be charged whilst in the caravan/trailer
• an inverter (660W min.) should go with the box.
• invest in an intelligent 220V charger (or a 12V - 25A power supply, to go with the DC-DC charger)
• make up jumper cables for starting, to fit the box's BH plug.

How and where can one check that rated AMP for the back cigarette lighter plug? I have one in the load bay, but not sure how to check the rater? My idea is also to use this plug to either connect an inverter with a benton charger ( i know this is no tthe optimum) or even to get a DC - DC charger and plug it in the cigarette lighter and charger my battery which will be in the back.

jaco_n wrote:

4ePajero wrote:After all the discussions on numerous forums, I am convinced if a few things:

• A portable battery box (eg the NL one) is better (for my use) than a fitted 2nd battery. The fact that you can carry it into your (or somebody else's) tent/caravan/house gives you so much more flexibility
• a DC-DC charger is the way to go. If your vehicle does not have a 20A cigarette / Hella plug in the load area, install one. No thick cables and batteries that won't fully charge. The battery can even be charged whilst in the caravan/trailer
• an inverter (660W min.) should go with the box.
• invest in an intelligent 220V charger (or a 12V - 25A power supply, to go with the DC-DC charger)
• make up jumper cables for starting, to fit the box's BH plug.

How and where can one check that rated AMP for the back cigarette lighter plug? I have one in the load bay, but not sure how to check the rater? My idea is also to use this plug to either connect an inverter with a benton charger ( i know this is no tthe optimum) or even to get a DC - DC charger and plug it in the cigarette lighter and charger my battery which will be in the back.

The supplier (agent)?
Spec sheet?
Stamped on the plug itself?

The rating is moulded into the little flap that closes the plug. If I remember correctly, it reads something like 120W max, which means that the current limitation would be 10A at 12V or (8.6A at 14V ). The wiring to that plug is pretty thin, though. I think the rating is determined more with a view to limiting heat generation than with a view to state the load that can be handled efficiently.

The voltage drop is bound to be quite substantial, so bear this in mind if you wish to plug anything directly into the plug. Many of the 12V fridges, for instance, have a low voltage cut-out to stop the fridge from draining the battery if left on. The problem is that there is a current spike the moment the fridge's compressor starts, which would be much greater than the steady state current to run the fridge (say 8A vs 2.5A or so). Now when the compressor kicks in, the large current spike causes the voltage to drop below the cut-off level and the fridge kicks out, only to repeat the procedure as the voltage recovers. The nett result is that the fridge never runs properly and might illuminate an error lamp. I never managed to run my Waeco compressor fridge directly off the 12V socket with its thin wires. On the other hand, I used to have a Waeco thermo-electric cooler (Peltier-effect cooler), that drew a steady 4A or so while running, but which had almost no start-up spike and this ran happily off the socket.

Yes you can fit 2nd bat in front ,move elect. on mudgard foreward, and make bracket for car bat ,mount at slight angle
in the back ,it will miss the aircon pipes. Then make a 2nd bracet for 105 amp bat to witch you weld water bot bracet, and put in place off old position of car bat.
I prefer to use 16 mm welding cables between batteries,through a continios rated soliniod,reason for this is: should
car bat get flat for a reason ,and you turn key to start car ,starter will fetch power from anny available source with
catastrovic results iff thin wires are used, thin wires become heater ellements and will melt all wireing.The wire used on sig plugs and hella plugs are to thin.I have a diagram for dual bat system, contact me 082 833 7400. to do it yourself
will cost about R1200.00.

When I bought my "pre-owned" Gen III SWB, the vehicle had a dual battery system. The 2nd battery was installed as shown in cats pics behind the first in a holder which seemed to be made for fit for use. The split charger was from NL and it had separate wiring for the 2 plugs in the back powered by the 2nd battery - that's all. I could even use the 2nd battery 1 week to start the motor when the 1st was "down the drain"...the monitor from NL made it possible.

I personally do not believe that any DIY solution serves the same standard - it's only cheaper - in it's performance and reliability...

Weighing up all the options, I got myself a portable unit.

R&D Offroad in Brackenfell did the solution for me. They laid the permanent cables to the back of the Pajero and sold me the NL unit and a DC battery.

Hi CATS,
have just been to one of the installers re dual battery in engine space - not enough space I was told.
There is the aircon refill-valve that sticks out and does not allow for the battery to be mounted level.
Can you please let me have the measurements of your battery (and make).
Thanks
Harald