Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

@ Jenki - Thanks for the input. They were 33x12.5x15. The steel rims were offset, but I can see that a narrower tyre might not have rubbed so bad.

@ Ned - I had the torsion bars turned up and now have an extra 25mm in front, and the rear lift with OME spring was around 40mm. I also had the bump-stops shaved a bit for more articulation up front.

Iron Man suspension will probably give you more lift, but I like quality over quantity IMHO.

Nico.

Ghost_Traffic did you change your front shocks after cranking up the tortion bars?

Need about 25 mm extra up front.

@ Theunsb - Yes. Full OME replacement all round, including springs and torsion bars.

Nico.

Mcnoogle wrote: I forgot to ask whether they were 10.5s or 12.5s, I would imagine the best option for a standard / minimal lift suspension 33's would work, but as a 10.5 or maybe even 11.5 but not a 12.5 without cutting.

Now to find a set of 33'x10.5x15's or 33'x11.5x15's (Cooper Stt's all the way) any suggestions anyone?

I also spoke to the guys at 4x4 megaworld, and hearing what they had to say, and what Larry has experienced, it seems Iron Man is more of a lift kit, whereas OME offers not so much lift (they quoted me 20mm increase on the back & nothing on the front) but with a marked difference in comfort, stability & articluation.

The tires were BFG AT 33x12.5x15's. I experienced very little rubbing on the inside of the wheel arches when turning. However, the steel rims are slightly off-set, which also helped. Also, the speedo was 100% correct up to 120kms on my 2.8TDi.

The biggest problem with 33's is that the 31 Coopers now simply looks too small

In my opinion the perfect fit will be a 32", pity they are as expensive as 33"s. Me thinks a landy tyre might just be the solution 235x85x16 - and we know were they can go.... They are equal to 32", but will mean investing in a new set of rims though - anyone out there tried this combination yet? I am seriously contemplating it...

ghost_traffic wrote:
@ Ned - I had the torsion bars turned up and now have an extra 25mm in front, and the rear lift with OME spring was around 40mm. I also had the bump-stops shaved a bit for more articulation up front.

Iron Man suspension will probably give you more lift, but I like quality over quantity IMHO.

Nico.

That sounds like a good plan, although I have heard that turning up the torsion springs decreases the articulation on the front (hence your obvious shaving of the bump stops)
Have you had your vehicle RTI (ramp travel index) tested yet, I would like to know what your articulation gain is after doing all that (front and back)
also, how did you get it right to gain 40mm on the back, as 4x4 megaworld quoted 20mm (even the book states 20mm)
also on your rear kit, what load package did you take? the std, or heavy load?

nino62 wrote: Hi Ned
It seems that you "fully" test the capability of Bismark", even without the DIFF-LOCK availability....
I also attribute it to the "fantastic" tyres, that COOPER STT seem to have proven themselves.

Thanks Achille,
I am definately trying to test it as much as possible to see how far I can push it, all the more so because I'm not scared of scratches or dings, and even bigger damage is covered by insurance)

Also
I definately agree, the Coopers are AWESOME, I see more and more (seriously hard core 4x4s with them on)
and they keep on just astounding me with their gripability and there ability to withstand sharp rocks etc.
The only thing I'm yet to be sold on is the 100,000 km durability (especially on tar) hence I am loath to think of having to change brands for the right size, as I really think 32" or 33" by 10.5 or 11.5 would work best, and would have to be for 15's.

Can anyone tell me if 11.5s would fit on the std 15' rims that the 10.5s fit on?

@ Ned - Sorry, my bad. I just dug up the OME warranty card and saw the lift was exactly 30mm, from 740mm to 770mm (measurement from centre of wheel to bottom of fender.)

Nico.

Thanks Nico,

any info on your articulation (RTI) at all?, also what load package did you take on your rear shocks std, or heavy load.
30mm is still a full 33% better than 20mm.

Thanks

Ned

ghost_traffic wrote:...
@ Ned - I had the torsion bars turned up and now have an extra 25mm in front, and the rear lift with OME spring was around 40mm. I also had the bump-stops shaved a bit for more articulation up front.

Iron Man suspension will probably give you more lift, but I like quality over quantity IMHO.

Nico.

For Ironman suspension, I mean torsion bars and springs (shocks in the kit as well), lift is the same 40mm in front and rear. And quality is excellent. Btw. I have Foam Cell shocks, not Nitro-Gas. Two cars (Patrol GR and Pajero) and the same experience.

If that helps mine has a 40mm suspension lift and 33x12.50R15 tires on steel rims. I have made some modifications to the front wheelarches to stop them from rubbing, mostly removing the stock mudguards as part of fitting fender flares. Before I did that I had some rubbing when turning under suspension flex, now I have no rubbing whatsoever and could probably fit 35s without rubbing. Wheel offset is important, but since I have never measured my wheels offset I can't tell you what mine is. My current tires are worn BFGoodrich ATs.

My suspension lift is very plain, blocks under the springs in back and torsion bars adjusted in front. Obviously downwards travel is compromised a bit, but some can be reclaimed by shaving the front bumpstops a bit. I don't really feel a big difference in the gearing or stability. My speedo is almost spot on with the 33s.

As for wheel width, it obviously depends on the tire width. For the 12.50s up here, 10 inch wide wheels are considered the norm, but they will fit on narrower wheels. For 10.50s the stock wheels will be fine.

On the other hand, I already got blocks for a 60 mm body lift, just lacking the free time to actually do the lift. I'm aiming for 36 inch tires, but I want enough lift to be able to fit 38 inch tires with some additional bodywork. After I put the body lift in, I'll probably take out the suspension lift, to regain the articulation and release the tension on the cv joints. I might put it back in when and if I move to 38" tires, if necessary. The body lift actually affects the center of gravity less than a suspension lift, since the really heavy parts (engine and transmission) aren't lifted. Less lift of any kind is obviously better.

Back when the gen 2.5 was new, the local dealership offered a modification where they fit 38" tires, with no body lift and minimal, if any suspension lift. Instead they did some fairly major work on the fenders and moved the rear axle 4 cm back. The modifications included a lengthened rear driveshaft and modifications to the trailing arms attachment points. This modification was only offered on the 2.8TDI, probably because that model had the right gearing, sufficient torque and last but not least, the factory 40 mm body lift (necessary for the 2.8 and 3500 for the bigger transmission).

As you know, a suspension lift will give you increased clearance under the frame but the only thing that will give you increased clearance under the axle is bigger tires. Rock sliders are good, I would love to have those, preferably ones I could also use as a step or kind of a mini running board.