[4ePajero]

Thanks for posting!
Looking at your meticulous work, I have little doubt that the rebuilt 3,2 will be as good as new, if not better!
You are proving that a Di-D can be successfully be re-built.
I hope you will share the eventual costs with us.
(your labour does not count! )

I feel like buying an old engine and rebuild it, just for the joy of working with a well-engineered piece of history.

(I don't know whether you have worked on other brands, but my experience is that a Mitsu is just in another league as far as excellent design goes).

Again, well done!!!

[Nick Gibson]

Some more pics of injector pump fitment.
See the red circle where the scissor gear bolt was removed from. The yellow arrow shows the port where the power steering pump is bolted into. This is also where you can double check the pump timing marks.

Front view of injector pump fitment

Side view of injector pump fitted

What the engine looked like at that stage of assembly, you can see how I fixed the timing chain up onto the guides with cable ties.

Engine assembly stage

[Nick Gibson]

Its important to note that the pump timing can be adjusted (retard or advance) as 4epikanini did with his 4m41.

Exploded view of pump

The flange plate (#11) is bolted onto the timing case and there is no adjustment possible there, it can only fit exactly in one position. The adjustment happens between the flange plate (#11) and pump (#20) by loosening the 3 bolts (#10) and pivoting the pump around its shaft to advance or retard.

Pump advance

See the two similar punched lines about 3mm apart (the pump one lines up with a thicker line cast into the flange plate), they used to line up but I advanced my pump about 3mm as I was sitting with an EGT reading higher than I liked. I can always return the pump to the original setting by lining up the punch marks again if the timing is out too much. The open port next to the timing marks is where the one hall type engine speed sensor plugs in, it took them out to protect them from damage during removal & fitment of the pump.

[Nick Gibson]

After I did the timing gears & Injector pump I fitted the oil pickup & Sump.

Oil Pickup fitted with new 'O' ring

Oil pump pickup fitted

Sump cleaned up of all old gasket makes and new bead applied. I ran out of the Victor Reinz liquid gasket, I had to use the Permatex Ultra Grey, as my local parts store didnt stock the Victor Reinz product.

Sump with sealant applied

You have to add some extra liquid gasket over the timing plate & cover to make sure these isn't a leak in that area where all the part join.

Sump Liquid Gasket Procedure is
1. Apply sealant to sump & locally on block over timing plate
2. Fit sump to block
3. Finger tight bolts till sealant squeezes out the sides slightly
4. Wait 1 hour
5. Tighten up bolts to required torque.

[Nick Gibson]

Bottom view of rear crank output with the two bolts used to lock the crank to torque the main pulley bolt to 323Nm.

Rear crank

Fitted new GMB water pump

New water pump

Oil cooler fitted

Oil cooler fitted

Water pump, vacuum pump & power steering pump fitted

New water pump fitted & (vacuum pump & Power steering pump fitted too)

[4ePajero]

That Di-D is still a thing of beauty!

I should have asked earlier, but did you replace the front seal on the injection pump?
They tend to start leaking when old, which causes diesel in the sump, which obviously is not good.

[Nick Gibson]

Piston Heights/protrusions:

In order to select the correct head gasket thickness 1-4 Notch (to achieve correct compression ratio) you need to do the piston heights. I made a slight error in that I should have done this when I fitted the piston without the timing chain in place - so I had to make a plan to turn the engine with out losing the timing of the chain.

timing Chain fixed with cable ties to guides

So I made a plan with a spare shackle and one of the cam sprockets.

Temporary chain tensioner...

To do the piston heights you need to set the piston at TDC with the dial gauge. Then you measure the difference the top top of the block height and top of piston.

Zeroing dial gauge on top of block:

Setting dial gauge on 0 on top of block

Measuring piston:

Check piston height (-0.035mm)

You measure both side of the piston along the centre line of the gudgeon pins and average the readings off all the pistons. I got 0.03375mm average which is fine for a 2 Notch (-0.05 to 0.03mm clearance range) head gasket.

Piston Heights Note sheet:

Piston heights

Head Gasket thickness selection specs:

Head gasket selection

All for now, I am fitting the head tonight, will post more pics when I get a chance again.

[Nick Gibson]

That Di-D is still a thing of beauty!

I should have asked earlier, but did you replace the front seal on the injection pump?
They tend to start leaking when old, which causes diesel in the sump, which obviously is not good.

Shaft seal 2.JPG

HI Gerhard (4e)

Thanks, I must say the 4m41 is quite a solidly designed engine, very robust, everything seems to be a bit larger than necessary!

Re Injector Pump Seal: I had the VRZ pump completely overhauled earlier in the year at Randburg Diesel when my GE actuator burnt out. They did a complete calibration & service of all the seals and gaskets when they had it open for repair, so hopefully it should still be fine 4 months down the line.

[4ePajero]

I love the "Temporary chain tensioner..."

[Nick Gibson]

Ok Feedback time.

Head - I had to fit all the bits to my new head from the old one, the new had came with new valves, springs etc, so I just had to swap studs, coolant outlet, and temp sender.

New Head

Fitting intake studs & coolant outlet - copper-slip to all studs as well

Installing studs with Brit-tool stud gripper

Intake side done

Mock-up of head installation - gasket down

Mock-up - head on block

Then I fond a problem...