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Re: OME + Spacers

Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 1:09 pm
by thekNack
Hey guys

Just been through Moremi/Savuti/Chobe/Baobabs. No worries at all, but was glad that I fitted the stoffpad bashplate as I did hit the "middelmannetjie" a few times in the deep sand/gravel roads in Savuti. So it seems to me that none of the suggested lifts would make a difference to this except bigger tires?

Re: OME + Spacers

Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 2:00 pm
by Wessel
Sorry can't comment on combination of aftermarket suspension and spacers, but here follows my experience.
My 2001 Paj's springs sagged quite a bit over time and had them replaced with OME heavy duty front and rear a year ago (around 225 000 km at that stage. I was advised to do medium duty in front for comfort, but decided against it.

I gained significant lift (50 - 60mm depending on arch, but the ride was much harder. Off-road it made a major difference - before I used to scrape against everything. Apart from gaining height the vehicle bounces a lot less on eg. rocky step declines, therefore less contact with rocks etc. Now, one year later I have either become used to the OME's or they softened up a bit - I think a bit of both. The harder ride doesn't bother me, but that might differ for someone else.

I never regretted my decision. What I sacrificed in comfort, I believe I gained in offroad capability. It will always be a tradeoff, you have to decide what is important for your application.

Would I add spacers to my OME ? No. Don't have the need anymore, and are scared of a negative chain reaction on other components.

Re: OME + Spacers

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 11:03 pm
by gyro
Morning guys, just a quick follow up on subframe spacers. If you use these front and back you dont change the drive shaft angles or the prop shaft angles as the front subframe has engine and gearbox attached. When you drop the front it lowers everything to the back and front with it. the Japanese have several kits (cant find website at moment) which go from 2inches to a 6 inch additional subframe in between body and Paj subframe. Looks awsome with 6 inch lift and 35inch tyres (bit radical for normal use, but you get the idea)The paj suspension can be stiffened by various methods that you have talked about but you dont want to change the drive shaft angles too much cause the /cv joints dont like it. With a subframe lift you can lift the body up out of the way about as much as you want and still keep OEM angles. If you need to stiffen the suspension because of sagging or extra load then there are plenty of springs on the market to do that but dont get too much longer cause it causes problems. Yes 2 inch is about absolute max and even then things interact and dont work as well as stock angles. Hope this helps with some of your discussion points.

Re: OME + Spacers

Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 9:33 am
by expat
For prices and spacers try Uys at Stofpad4x4.

http://www.stofpad4x4.co.za/

Prices are:

Front set, 25mm spacer, 45mm lift, R1000/set

Front set, 35mm spacer, 63mm lift, R1100/set

Re: OME + Spacers

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:30 am
by Gryskoos
expat wrote:For prices and spacers try Uys at Stofpad4x4.

http://www.stofpad4x4.co.za/

Prices are:

Front set, 25mm spacer, 45mm lift, R1000/set

Front set, 35mm spacer, 63mm lift, R1100/set
Can anybody please advice me here?
I own a 2000 blister 3.5

How difficult will it be to fit any of the above spacers?
Do I really need new shocks etc if I put in spacers?

Re: OME + Spacers

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 12:15 pm
by 4ePikanini
yours is a blister with springs at the back and torsion bars at the front.

You be able to fit spacers at the rear but for the front, the best you can do is to crank the torsion bars up.

Re: OME + Spacers

Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:44 am
by Gryskoos
Marius

Cranking the torsion bars up let me to the following questions.

1.) Will the torsion bars/mounting not be prone to snapping/breaking when doing this?

2.) Will it affect offroad handling? Ride not more harch?

Thanks in advance

Re: OME + Spacers

Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 3:12 pm
by 4ePikanini
Cranking the torsion bats up does not add strain to the bars. It will still flex as before but will have a different starting point.

The only time it may affect it is that the bottom bumpstop will be closer to the a-arm so at speed you will get a wheel in the air more easily. On the plus you will have more space to the top bumpstop so a dip at speed is less likely to bottom the suspension and will make for a better smoother ride.

Solution : cut half the bottom bumpstop away.

Remember to have it done as part of wheel alignment as torsion bar cranking will affect the camber.

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