it is not uncommon to have a dud pump or thermostat.
Also : the rebuilder could have used too much gasket maker that went through the cooling system, trashed the pump and got stuck in the thermostat.
A pajero cooling system is vastly over engineered on the gen3.
Have the flow of the pump checked and have the thermostat checked/replaced.
I've only just caught up on this CATS - indeed a pity that all your efforts have not come to a complete solution...
Maybe a stupid question - you say engine temp goes up to a max of 89degC - is this a problem? Do we have nominal values for factory operating temps on the paj?
I've seen mine max out at 90degC pulling a 1.2 ton trailer at 130km/h on a long it uphill with the EGTs sustained at about 670degC.
Maybe a stupid question - you say engine temp goes up to a max of 89degC - is this a problem? Do we have nominal values for factory operating temps on the paj?
I've seen mine max out at 90degC pulling a 1.2 ton trailer at 130km/h on a long it uphill with the EGTs sustained at about 670degC.
Karl
Gemaskerde Tuinvurk wrote:I've only just caught up on this CATS - indeed a pity that all your efforts have not come to a complete solution...
Maybe a stupid question - you say engine temp goes up to a max of 89degC - is this a problem? Do we have nominal values for factory operating temps on the paj?
I've seen mine max out at 90degC pulling a 1.2 ton trailer at 130km/h on a long it uphill with the EGTs sustained at about 670degC.
I concur, 89'C sounds within spec. Pressurized water systems are designed to go up to 115'C..... Your Madman should give accurate readings - find out what normal operating temps should be, also acceptable temps under load. It may well turn out that your temps are fine and the gauge over indicates!
Sample temps stated by Gemaskerde Tuinvurk seems in perfectly normal to start your comparison with.
PS Even though my lexus conversion is now sorted, it also took months of tinkering in 2014, and it could have been worse also.... There is never a perfect solution, sometimes one just have to face the cards you're dealt, and grin....
I only get some overheating when I tow my Xplorer now. Solo I can flog it to death on a hot summers day on an uphill and it goes to about 95degC max. If I hook the Xplorer and climb a hill or drive fast like 120km/h it gently climbs. This weekend it went as high as 116degC on the Madman and just under the red on the dash!!!. The resultant heat transfered to the oil then reduce oil presure and if I then get to a stop and idle oil presure will go to as low as 0.4 on the Madman but light on dash does not light up. It aint right!
Alan Black has sugested that I get a second opinion as they are at wits end and to be honest to give them the vehicle to run on the dyno does not create the same effect as towing so their tests come out good.
I will try and get local cooling specialist to take a drive with me but am a bit down.
I wonder what it will do if I completely remove the thermostat when I go towing again? If this resolve issue I at least know thermo is place to look, or will do more bad than good?
CATS
Alan Black has sugested that I get a second opinion as they are at wits end and to be honest to give them the vehicle to run on the dyno does not create the same effect as towing so their tests come out good.
I will try and get local cooling specialist to take a drive with me but am a bit down.
I wonder what it will do if I completely remove the thermostat when I go towing again? If this resolve issue I at least know thermo is place to look, or will do more bad than good?
CATS
2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
Hi CATS,
Disappointing that this is not resolved.
For interest (and I know that it does not impact the fact that the temperature IS rising) where is the OEM coolant sensor located vs where is the MadMan coolant sensor located?
Taking out the thermostat does not always improve things - if coolant flows too fast through the radiator it can have the same effect as flowing too slowly - i.e.too fast and the efficiency of the radiator drops. But it still worth a try.
Is it an original OEM 2-core aluminium radiator or a 3rd party 3-core copper radiator?
Have you thought about removing your front ARB as test to see if it is airflow related? I know that seems a bit drastic, but desperate times call for desperate measures!
Disappointing that this is not resolved.
For interest (and I know that it does not impact the fact that the temperature IS rising) where is the OEM coolant sensor located vs where is the MadMan coolant sensor located?
Taking out the thermostat does not always improve things - if coolant flows too fast through the radiator it can have the same effect as flowing too slowly - i.e.too fast and the efficiency of the radiator drops. But it still worth a try.
Is it an original OEM 2-core aluminium radiator or a 3rd party 3-core copper radiator?
Have you thought about removing your front ARB as test to see if it is airflow related? I know that seems a bit drastic, but desperate times call for desperate measures!
If the thermostat is good, removing it should improve waterflow, but I don't know what it will prove.CATS wrote:
I wonder what it will do if I completely remove the thermostat when I go towing again? If this resolve issue I at least know thermo is place to look, or will do more bad than good?
CATS
If the thermostat is bad, you should see improvement when towing.
Removing the thermostat will result in the vehicle running cold more often than not, and also take an age to heat up, if at all. Cold wear is what really hurts a motor. Running as a test will be OK, but over time, not so much. If the thermostat is the issue, replace until fixed, maybe even fit a colder one, or drill a hole or two, but don't remove it permanently - m2cw!
PS Back in my student days I had to replace a thermostat in my grandpa's workshop. He just took it and drilled a 3mm hole without asking, like it is daily practice. Slightly upset I requested why, and his reply was that it prevents air locks in the system and has very little effect on heating up the motor. But I don't know if it is still acceptable practice on modern systems....
@larry007,
Thermostats already come with an air bleed built in these days.
@CATS,
Two other random thoughts:
1. Is the aircon condenser (radiator) clean and unobstructed (no bent fins) because that is the only supply point of outside air to the engine coolant radiator.
2. I see talk on the Aus Pajero site of high flow thermostats (e.g. here: http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... 835&page=3). Such a thermostat will still allow engine to get to and maintain optimum operating temperature, but allows for higher flow as temperature rises vs standard OEM thermostat.
Thermostats already come with an air bleed built in these days.
@CATS,
Two other random thoughts:
1. Is the aircon condenser (radiator) clean and unobstructed (no bent fins) because that is the only supply point of outside air to the engine coolant radiator.
2. I see talk on the Aus Pajero site of high flow thermostats (e.g. here: http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... 835&page=3). Such a thermostat will still allow engine to get to and maintain optimum operating temperature, but allows for higher flow as temperature rises vs standard OEM thermostat.
To be honest, if it remains under 100'C by itself, your DiD seems perfectly fine, it should be within design specs and you should be happy!!CATS wrote:I only get some overheating when I tow my Xplorer now. Solo I can flog it to death on a hot summers day on an uphill and it goes to about 95degC max. If I hook the Xplorer and climb a hill or drive fast like 120km/h it gently climbs. This weekend it went as high as 116degC on the Madman and just under the red on the dash!!!.
CATS
Second observation: besides the fact that you really shouldn't tow your Xplorer at 120kph all the time, it really is normal for any vehicle to get hot when pushed whilst heavy loaded. I think this is fair to expect it to sweat a bit when being pushed in summer.
116'C
I wouldn't recommend going higher than 110'C. The risk just becomes too high IMHOPS That ARB bumper makes me think... It may very well affect your airflow negatively. Why not remove it completely and test then? Or then go even further and put the original bumper and test again (obviously documenting the whole saga here for us). If the bumper is the culprit, it can at least account for the issue and end up with a few strategically placed 40mm holes
If you expect it to remain cool, contemplate fitting a bigger/more efficient radiator. It can't ever run too cold, that is what the thermostat regulates.
To be honest, if it remains under 100'C by itself, your DiD seems perfectly fine, it should be within design specs and you should be happy!!CATS wrote:I only get some overheating when I tow my Xplorer now. Solo I can flog it to death on a hot summers day on an uphill and it goes to about 95degC max. If I hook the Xplorer and climb a hill or drive fast like 120km/h it gently climbs. This weekend it went as high as 116degC on the Madman and just under the red on the dash!!!.
CATS
Second observation: besides the fact that you really shouldn't tow your Xplorer at 120kph all the time, it really is normal for any vehicle to get hot when pushed whilst heavy loaded. I think this is fair to expect it to sweat a bit when being pushed in summer.
116'C
I wouldn't recommend going higher than 110'C. The risk just becomes too high IMHOPS That ARB bumper makes me think... It may very well affect your airflow negatively. Why not remove it completely and test then? Or then go even further and put the original bumper and test again (obviously documenting the whole saga here for us). If the bumper is the culprit, it can at least account for the issue and end up with a few strategically placed 40mm holes
If you expect it to remain cool, contemplate fitting a bigger/more efficient radiator. It can't ever run too cold, that is what the thermostat regulates.
Affiliate Member
remove the thermostat and hook your trailer.
If the temp still rises it's the waterpump
If the temp stays cool then the thermostat is dud (remember to install a new one with bleed nipple on top) - I think you should change it for another original one anyways.
the statement of too fast flowing coolant through the radiator is unfounded. A fully opened thermostat allows full flow and max cooling.
Your cooling system is over engineered. It should be able to tow max weight up and down passes all day long.
Can you hear the viscous blowing when it gets hot?
Are you sure the viscous is pulling air through and not installed back to front so it's blowing air back into the radiator? (I have seen it happen)
If the temp still rises it's the waterpump
If the temp stays cool then the thermostat is dud (remember to install a new one with bleed nipple on top) - I think you should change it for another original one anyways.
the statement of too fast flowing coolant through the radiator is unfounded. A fully opened thermostat allows full flow and max cooling.
Your cooling system is over engineered. It should be able to tow max weight up and down passes all day long.
Can you hear the viscous blowing when it gets hot?
Are you sure the viscous is pulling air through and not installed back to front so it's blowing air back into the radiator? (I have seen it happen)