Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Hi Cats,

You and the Snoopster have had me awake since 3. Good news is: EUREKA!! You need to also monitor the coolant temp into the engine and look at the difference between T into engine (Tb) and T out of engine (Tt).

Here is my logic: If the pump or thermostat is to blame, then Tt minus Tb will be a big number. If your cooling is a problem, then that number will be smaller.

You either need to find the spec for those numbers, or find a willing Pajero to run for benchmark figures. If delta T is small, then you need a bigger/better radiator or more/better airflow.


Sent from my GT-I9305

cloyd wrote:Cats,

A small piddle stream to add to the discussion: Why not borrow an used original radiator from Partshunt? Explain the overheating problem to Martin and ask for a used unit as a test installation with the promise to buy it if it solves the problem.

Cloyd

PS: I agree that by fitting an oversize rad will only hide the problem and not solve it.

Cloyd

Good idea but not so easy unfortunately. In crashed cars the radiator is usually one of the first things to go, also apparently the manual, which I have take a different radiator than an auto and there aint that many manuals out there to start with.

But I will keep a lookout for one.

CATS

4ePikanini wrote:start with the cheap stuff. Get a new thermostat. Make sure it is installed correctly.

I still have dad's 3 core radiator. I'm not sure if it's the same between gen2 and gen3. We can do some measurements and check. The 3 core gives extra cooling capacity and extra cooling efficiency.

Do you still have the CATs in your exhaust?

Is the exhaust manifold heat shields in place?

Are the underbody covers in place?

Next time it gets hot, open the windows and turn the heater to max. Does that make a difference?

Remove the thermostat and check the flow out the radiator hose into a bucket at idle. A video would be good but it should be flowing at a substantial rate.

Can we get another gen3 owner to stop by and confirm that all the pipes are connected the right way? Screw ups are easy to make.

Allan Black may done the pump timing on the bench but has the timing been correctly set in the car? See page 10 onwards of attached PDF

Also make sure the tappet clearances are correct.

Sit this out. When you are done the car will be great. I spent 2 years getting my touareg up to scratch and now I'm loving it! The persistance is worth it!

11C.pdf

I am getting a new thermostat on Saturday and see if I am up to a replacement myself, but not sure I know how to do it properly and refill without air etc, so might give to someone else close to home to do.

CAT was taken out a while before engine rebuild with no specific results except a slightly noisier exhaust. All engine heat shields are in place as far as I can see and all underbody plates are in place, well at least the ones that was there before the rebuild.

Putting on heater when it starts to heat up the engine does nothing to relieve the heat rising, well not enough for me to notice anything while sweating away.

"Remove the thermostat and check the flow out the radiator hose into a bucket at idle. A video would be good but it should be flowing at a substantial rate." - I am not sure I am up to this part. Remember I count beans for a living, my tools are pens and paper so this is a bit higher grade, not to mention the pump setting. Valve clearances was checked by Mitsu as well as by Alan Black according to them, so I think they are OK.

CATS
PS - What does a flight ticket from East Londen/PE cost to JHB and back? Can I maybe sponsor a visit for you to me?

CATS wrote: ...also apparently the manual, which I have take a different radiator than an auto and there aint that many manuals out there to start with.

But I will keep a lookout for one.

CATS

Although you could not use a rad from a manual for an auto, you should be able to use a rad from an auto in a manual, I think. The auto rad has a heat exchanger built in for the auto trans fluid - in your case the connections could just be plugged off, or even left open - there is nothing to leak.

andrew.ashton wrote:@CATS

Can you remember if the problem started rearing its ugly head before or after you replaced the radiator?
Did you use an OEM radiator or a 3rd party radiator?

(Just wondering if the higher capacity 3rd party radiators really do provide improved cooling vs OEM radiator).

Andrew

Radiator was replaced when cracked piston was replaced and engine rebuild was done first time, with old water pump(I did not replace it initially as it was only replaced 20000kms+/- prior to that with new OEM one as preventative steps) but new oil pump, thermostat etc. After that(within 3000kms) it got hot on uphills solo due to it pushing out water on overflow bottle and eventually end with too little water in cooling system, due to exhaust pressure in water system, and a cracked head was diagnosed and a new replacement head was installed.

Since then it does not loose water any more and does not push out water but it gets hot when towing, which it never did before rebuild.

Water pump was replaced subsequently as well to see if it made any difference. Which it did not.

CATS

RoelfleRoux wrote:Hi Cats,

You and the Snoopster have had me awake since 3. Good news is: EUREKA!! You need to also monitor the coolant temp into the engine and look at the difference between T into engine (Tb) and T out of engine (Tt).

Here is my logic: If the pump or thermostat is to blame, then Tt minus Tb will be a big number. If your cooling is a problem, then that number will be smaller.

You either need to find the spec for those numbers, or find a willing Pajero to run for benchmark figures. If delta T is small, then you need a bigger/better radiator or more/better airflow.


Sent from my GT-I9305

Eish Roelf! You should not be awake at 3 in the morning to worry about me and old Snoopy. Rather start worrying about where you gonna go visit once you go on retirement! But thank you for your thoughts!

Your logic is sound and will probably work, but how and where do I source all these sensors and the know how to fit them? I will contact Madman and see if they can maybe advise. I must go and visit some mines. I am sure that if I was in a small mining town like Barberton or Kathu that the know how and expertise plus sensors etc would have been easy to tap on to.

CATS

C'mon.... you guys tap into a 1000°C exhaust manifold to measure EGT, how tuff can it be to tap into a 60°C pipe?

Sent from my GT-I9305

CATS wrote: Andrew
Radiator was replaced when ... engine rebuild was done first time...

Since then ... it gets hot when towing, which it never did before rebuild.
CATS

So just maybe the current overheating issue started from this time - = new radiator could be the culprit?

Anyway, one step at a time.

Remove the thermostat and test like that first per Marius.
DOn't forget you will need some matching (ie same as already in the system) coolant to top up with because you will lose some removing the thermostat (unless you can drain into a clean container for re-use before you remove thermostat) and it is a bad idea to mix different coolants - can cause gelling in the radiator.

Andrew,

I firmly believe the radiator is too "light" for the job and the bumper isn't helping.

If we could just measure the coolant temp as it leaves the radiator, then Cats can know for sure where the problem is. Now he has to source a radiator, without knowing if it is the problem.

Sent from my GT-I9305