Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Fixed the erratic temp gauge issue. Seems fuel gauge is also working correctly again.

Put a roof rack on my shorty.... including the jerry cans!
Then fitted some LED 64W spots...
And lastly got her new some shoes, the make being BF's A/T...

Other accessories to follow....

Installed Stofpad spacers! Just in time for the Barberton trip.
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Not today...but this weekend.
Saturday:
Took paj to TWT for wheel balancing, rotation and alignment. After balancing and rotation......paj does not want to start....suspect battery finally decided to die on me (was waiting for this to happen)....so got a new battery....starts on first swing.

Sunday:
Time for a wash (plenty Barberton and Swaziland dust everywhere).....finally fitted my spare wheel cover. Thanx Roelf/Cats

Problems with my Gen4 aircon for past 2 weeks, took it to Mitspro last week for diagnostics, turned out to be the Dual Pressure switch. Dealers wanted R984.00 ex vat and no stock, on back order 6 weeks. Got one from Parts Hunt Martin for R150.00. all fixed and nice and cool again. Aircons are like cellphones, once they go down, only then you realise how much you need them.

Polished the old fire engine after the Tie in the Dots trip

Hi guys,

On our last "Tie the Dots" in Barberton I had a discussion with Andrew Ashton about undoing my Pajero's transfer case filler plug. Whilst still under Maintenance Plan the mech butchers at the stealers were suppose to drain the transfer case oil as dictated by the service schedule. Maybe they did, I do not know, but they tightened the plug so much that I could not un-do it.

After the Maintenance Plan ran out, I took the maintenance over. I decided to check the various oil levels. All levels were OK BUT for the transfer case. I could not open the filler plug. They turned it in so tight that even with a power bar and socket I could not undo it and naturally, the socket slipped off damaging the plug. Next effort: an open-ended spanner - same result. Next: a six-sided socket with the same result. Next: I heated it with a plumbers torch: result no movement.

During our discussion Andrew mentioned the possibility of welding a steel bar to the plug and then use that as an extra lever to undo it. Well today I decided to have a go at it. I took the Pajero to a friend (same guy where I made my fuel and water tanks, spacers, etc. He convinced me that we should weld a 12.5mm drive socket to the plug and then try and turn it with a power bar. This was duly done and it required that both of us pull on the bar to undo the plug. Naturally the transfer case needed oil.

So at last, I can now check and fill the transfer case when needed. The above effort will also work on stubborn diff plugs. THANK YOU Andrew for the advice.

Cloyd

cloyd wrote:Hi guys,
...
THANK YOU Andrew for the advice.
Cloyd

You are welcome - glad you got it sorted and that you could get the transfer case oil level checked.

A reminder to all the DIYers - NEVER drain oil from any diff housing / transfer case / whatever unless you are sure that you have FIRST made sure that you have a way of refilling!!

Thanks for sharing.

This does show that personal contact still has a place in our modern cyber society.

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Not today, but yesterday at 257992km.

1. Fitted a new Mitsubishi OEM viscous fan clutch. Not cheap (Part number MLME298543 R3530.09 incl VAT) but much more preferable than paying R100k for a new engine. I had previously topped up the silicon oil in the original viscous clutch and it did help for a while, but I could see coolant temperature beginning to rise again under load and was not prepared to let my engine’s future lie in the hands of a poorly operating fan. I was also not prepared to purchase a 3rd party unit as I don’t believe that a generic will operate (slip vs temperature curve) exactly per the OEM unit.

2. Tensioned up the alternator belt that I had heard slipping on a couple of recent shallow water crossings.

3. Deleted EGR system. Fitted a blank flange at the exhaust manifold and a second blank between the EGR valve body and the inlet manifold, and completely removed the original EGR pipework and EGR cooler. While the EGR valve body was off I did a quick visual check at that inlet into the manifold – not too fouled since I had previously stripped the inlet manifold and cleaned all the gunk out at around 240 000km.

Why did I do this? I came to the conclusion, after doing as much research as I could, that one of the possible failure paths leading to holes in pistons in some diesels could be as follows:

Gunk progressively builds up in inlet manifold. This is caused by heat and soot particles from the EGR combining with oil in the inlet air path (from crankcase ventilation and possibly from turbo bearing lubrication).

As the air flow is restricted in the inlet manifold, the turbo will boost to try to compensate and maybe (perhaps someone can confirm) more diesel will be injected to try to match the imagined (but not actual) air flow. And / or the MAF becomes partially blocked. But the postulated outcome is that fuel / air ratio increases to the point where not all fuel explodes, but some rather burns on the piston crown, leading to piston failure.

I can certainly confirm that when I stripped my inlet system at 240000km it was incredibly blocked, especially at the inlet from the EGR valve, but also all the way through to where the manifold mates with the inlet ports on the head.

4. And today? Well, I will tell you about that once it has been completed to my satisfaction!