Gen 2 Rear Shock Replace
Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 9:25 am
I decided to change my shocks this weekend. Bar the need for a spanner because of space issues, the entire job can be completed if you own a socket set.
As can be seen from the photos I replaced Gabriel Kubu's with Gabriel Kubu's. I claim they are the absolute best available
purely because the parts shop had nothing else in stock.
The job took about as long as it takes to have a cold one.
What I did was to loosen both Top and Bottom nuts. Not all the way though. I put a brick under my jack to give me a little bit of extra height. Once the shock stared extending as I jacked the car up, I loosened the Top nut completely. Stop jacking as soon as the top of the shock almost disappears from view in the top mounting hole. When you take the bottom bolt out, you can maneuver the shock out of the top mounting hole. I installed the new shocks by lining the top up first, installing the bottom bolt and tightening slightly. I then very slowly lowered the car to make sure the top comes out of the mounting hole. With the car on the ground I properly tightened the bottom nut. Torque for the bottom nut should be around 240nm. I used as much force as I possibly could get out of myself laying underneath the car using the 2 bars in the picture which hopefully is the equivalent of spec.The top nut needs a bit of pressure on the rubbers to get the nut to grip the thread. Once it grips, just tighten as per picture.

Everything that is needed plus the spanner I didn't have.

Old Top Nut

Oil covered Bottom Nut

Jack Marker

Jack Line

New Top Nut
As can be seen from the photos I replaced Gabriel Kubu's with Gabriel Kubu's. I claim they are the absolute best available


The job took about as long as it takes to have a cold one.
What I did was to loosen both Top and Bottom nuts. Not all the way though. I put a brick under my jack to give me a little bit of extra height. Once the shock stared extending as I jacked the car up, I loosened the Top nut completely. Stop jacking as soon as the top of the shock almost disappears from view in the top mounting hole. When you take the bottom bolt out, you can maneuver the shock out of the top mounting hole. I installed the new shocks by lining the top up first, installing the bottom bolt and tightening slightly. I then very slowly lowered the car to make sure the top comes out of the mounting hole. With the car on the ground I properly tightened the bottom nut. Torque for the bottom nut should be around 240nm. I used as much force as I possibly could get out of myself laying underneath the car using the 2 bars in the picture which hopefully is the equivalent of spec.The top nut needs a bit of pressure on the rubbers to get the nut to grip the thread. Once it grips, just tighten as per picture.

Everything that is needed plus the spanner I didn't have.

Old Top Nut

Oil covered Bottom Nut

Jack Marker

Jack Line

New Top Nut