Making your own hi lift points on a gen2
Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 10:46 pm
Making your own hi lift points on a gen2
Yes I know there are commercial hi lift points available, only problem is they are not specifically for the Pajero gen 2 instead it is a universal one that needs so much modification that, by the time it fits, you have redesigned the lift point and half of the Pajero. I set out to build a set that would be strong enough to do the job and be easy to fit with the minimum of cutting of the Pajero. If need be it must be removable without leaving big gaps and holes. This is what I have come up with:
Rear points.
These were the easy ones to do, they basically consist of a piece of 60 x 60 x 6 angle iron with a piece of tubing welded to the inside of the angle to clear your rear bumper. The Pajero has three existing holes in the chassis and these are the ones I used to bolt the points on to the chassis. You will notice the front two holes have nuts welded on to the chassis but the rear one is just a hole right through the chassis with a squash tube welded in place, for this one I used a high tensile bolt and self locking nut, you will have to remove the chrome insert on the top of the bumper to gain access to this hole. As an additional safety fixing point I added a piece of 60 x 6mm flat bar with a 20mm hole in the end to the outside of the angle. This point is used as a safety fixing with a bow shackle and safety bridal. Be very meticulous with the welding and I would suggest tapering the sides of the flat bar and drilling two 12mm holes and rosette welding it on to the angle.
Front points.
These ones were a bit trickier. To start off there is no direct unobstructed access from the chassis to the underside of the bumper as my bull bar was in the way of the horizontal part of the angle. On these ones I opted to let the angle slide in to the chassis using the two holes already in the chassis and drilling an additional one on the side. The offset is achieved by adding a shorter piece of angle to accept the tube on the side of the mounting angle and to cut the horizontal part of the mounting angle to clear the bull bar. For the two top holes I welded the bolts in place as it might be difficult to insert them otherwise and for the side one I welded the nut on to the angle. This mounting needs the front plastic grille to be cut slightly.
I have lifted the vehicle countless times and even used the rear safety holes to tow a plat kar on a few occasions without any distortion or negative effects. For recovery purposes I prefer to use the pintel tow bar and loop two safety straps from the hi lift points to the snatch strap. In the event of anything breaking I have at least two backup straps in place. The same goes for the side of the vehicle that is being recovered I can not see humor in having a front bumper coming through my rear window at speed.
I hope the pictures tell a better story than I could.
Henk
Yes I know there are commercial hi lift points available, only problem is they are not specifically for the Pajero gen 2 instead it is a universal one that needs so much modification that, by the time it fits, you have redesigned the lift point and half of the Pajero. I set out to build a set that would be strong enough to do the job and be easy to fit with the minimum of cutting of the Pajero. If need be it must be removable without leaving big gaps and holes. This is what I have come up with:
Rear points.
These were the easy ones to do, they basically consist of a piece of 60 x 60 x 6 angle iron with a piece of tubing welded to the inside of the angle to clear your rear bumper. The Pajero has three existing holes in the chassis and these are the ones I used to bolt the points on to the chassis. You will notice the front two holes have nuts welded on to the chassis but the rear one is just a hole right through the chassis with a squash tube welded in place, for this one I used a high tensile bolt and self locking nut, you will have to remove the chrome insert on the top of the bumper to gain access to this hole. As an additional safety fixing point I added a piece of 60 x 6mm flat bar with a 20mm hole in the end to the outside of the angle. This point is used as a safety fixing with a bow shackle and safety bridal. Be very meticulous with the welding and I would suggest tapering the sides of the flat bar and drilling two 12mm holes and rosette welding it on to the angle.
These ones were a bit trickier. To start off there is no direct unobstructed access from the chassis to the underside of the bumper as my bull bar was in the way of the horizontal part of the angle. On these ones I opted to let the angle slide in to the chassis using the two holes already in the chassis and drilling an additional one on the side. The offset is achieved by adding a shorter piece of angle to accept the tube on the side of the mounting angle and to cut the horizontal part of the mounting angle to clear the bull bar. For the two top holes I welded the bolts in place as it might be difficult to insert them otherwise and for the side one I welded the nut on to the angle. This mounting needs the front plastic grille to be cut slightly.
I hope the pictures tell a better story than I could.
Henk