Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Hi all,.

Day 1

We set off on a cold, wet and windy Saturday morning on our Namibia journey. We wanted to leave early, but the warm bed felt a lot better than the cold outside. We eventually left around 10 in the morning. I spent the morning braving the chilly wet weather to pack and strap all the goodies on the roof. I was miserable not only due to the cold and wet, but because i was dreading the upcoming four weeks unpacking and repacking at every camp site...

Our fist part of the journey was to drive to Kuruman in the Northern Cape. Roads are well, SA’s roads... We drove through some pretty hectic rain storms, but luckily missed the hail. We did however drive on white roads, which ended up being slippery and only had one or two tracks of vehicles in front of us. We got to Kuruman around 18:00 and needed to fill up. NOT good, as the garages were all full of mostly young guys all drunk, but we managed.We were booked into the Red Sands, about 14Km other side of Kuruman, which as always was a pleasure. Good food, cold beer and very nice accommodation
Distance form JHB, 564 Km.

I have posted some pics on: http://kaibruniandsteffi.shutterfly.com/ just to wet the appetite:)

Day 2-6

Day 2
We hit the road early that morning but not before meeting with ____________________, avid bird photographers. We ended up chatting for a long time and then we took a drive around the Red Sands reserve where they have game. The owner is German and has imported Fellow deer which is breeding well, as well as local indigenous game on the reserve.
We drove through via Upington to Augrabis falls, 381 Km from Kuruman and stayed in the Augrabis National Park. On the way we passed the “Pink Padstal” which is a well, Pink Padstal. The coffee was good and the little shop full of interesting goodies especially dried fruit which was nice.
At Augrabis we took our first “break” staying for two nights, especially to let Steffi stretch her legs and rid some energy. Though not too much water, the falls were still impressive.
Day 3
We decided to do one of the walks available, the so called Dassie trail. It was 5Km long and Steffi walked the whole way. It was hot, dry and the flies bothered me.
Day 4,
We took off from Augrabis and via Pofadder crossed into Namibia at the Onseekpans border. In Pofadder we stocked up on biltong and some last minute groceries at the local Spaar. It was clean, though here we had the first beggars telling us stories of their misfortune (what they could remember in their drunken stupor) Leaving Pofadder, we took the gravel road to the border post. The road was in good condition and travelling at 100Km/hr was no problem. The SA side was clean efficient and friendly. Namibia was a bit more run down, but still efficient with no problems.
From there we carried on via Karasburg, Grunau to Ai-Ais. The roads, still gravel, were good and we had no problems with tires (yet). From Augrabis to Ai-Ais was 462Km. This was our first night of camping, only to find out that the tent poles of the Oztent we had borrowed from my Dad had no tent poles! Luckily i had the Outback awning with me and we got those poles to fit.
The camp sites are clean and all have power. The shop had limited supplies (all still new) and sells nice fire wood. Meat was not available to buy, though the restaurant was fully operational. Bread was available, but had to be ordered from the restaurant

Day 5 was spent relaxing in the hot pools. The whole facility only opened up to the public a week or two before we got there and everything was new. Ablutions were clean and tidy, the pools hot with brand new rooms running the length of the pools. The outside pool was also warm, though by far not as pleasant as the inside ones.

Day 6,
We set of to look at the fish river canyon. It was a 176Km round trip. Roads started off good, but the C10 to the fish river canyon had some dips and corrugations. From the entrance office to the actual canyon the roads are all very stony and bumpy. On our return, we lost our first tire, with a 4cm cut... no plugging would have helpedL So, on came the spare.. the high lift jack also came in handy as the normal jack kept going skew I did everything as the book says, but I didn’t trust it. And yes, my home made rock sliders could carry the car. Also, on this day I spotted my first little problem. The 50L water tank I had fitted behind the rear seats and the storage shelf, was leaking. I reckon 15/20L had already dripped out. Why is it that one cannot get proper hose clamps Anyways, with thanks to Pieter from Cape town, we were able to lift out the tank and fit new hose clamps to stop the leak on one of the elbows. The water eventually evaporated.
Once back in Ai-Ais, the local guys there could patch the tire, but not balance it. So, it stayed on as a spare. Fuel is available, but payment in cash only.

Day 7,
We packed and strapped the car and departed after a hearty breakfast in the restaurant. We had an awesome drive through a dry river bed. It was the Gamchab 4x4 trail which meanders through the Aussenkehr Nature reserve. It cut out a huge chunk of gravel road and we were the only ones in the canyon. There was a trickle of water every now and then, but nothing we couldn’t handle. From there we went along the D212 road which follows the Orange river. T4A mentioned that parts of the road were impassable, but all went well and the road is in good condition. We took a chance and asked the Namibian border guards if we can have a look at the Pont at Sendelingsdrift, taking cars over the Orange River. They had no problems and it was interesting seeing the Pont being driven by two outboard engines to ferry back and forth. Then, on to Rosh Pinah where stopped at the local Spar again to get odds and ends. Again, locals were begging or trying to sell some seeds effort thing? We then set off on the long road to Aus which is now fully tarred. Amazing was the amount of glass bottles along the road. One could have filed more than a large truck with the amount of bottles strewn along the whole 160Km section of road. We only just made it to the petrol station, the Pajero only having fumes to sniff on.

After Aus, we stopped just after Klein Aus (about 20Km) to look at the wild horses. We not only saw them drinking at the permanent water hole, but counted around 180 off them, though all through binoculars. They looked in stunning condition.
We arrived in Lüderitz late that afternoon. We stayed in the Obelix village at the entrance of Lüderitz, which is a friendly guest house / village, run by Norbert. His pub is awesome with a beautiful variety of mounts and artefacts form the area.

So, we all met at the Hotel zum Sperrgebiet for a briefing. We met up with Heiner and Manfred (a great cook) form Coastaway tour and got a general idea of what we'll be doing. After a good supper, we got ready. That morning, a final check and breakfast we all set off. We were packed heavy!!! Full tank of Diesel as well as another 105L diesel in jerry cans all strapped in the back with the fried, 50L water and clothes, beer camping goodies and some more beer. Also a nice bottle of red wine, thanks to CATS. On the roof, a Oztent, a frontrunner bag filled with sleeping bags, cushions and blankets), car spares (oils, coolant, belts, and odds n ends, tools, wood, charcoal, chairs and table) The back seat was also full of bags of clothes and stuff......
We set off a little later than expected and in convoy followed Heiner towards Aus for about 30Km and then turned off into the desert. The first 50 odd Km was rough. Corrugations just didn’t want to end. Never mind the dust clouds, especially ending up the second last vehicle.
Then we turned off and we all let down tyres. And off we went again. Going initially was good and once we started getting into the soft sand, we soon saw who was going to need help and moral support getting through. A few got stuck, but easily pulled out and got going again.
I could go on and on, but the desert is a wonderful place. We saw Gemsbok and jackal as well as all sorts of beetles and gogos that live in what we would deem as a great nothingness. Camp 1 was really awesome. Everyone still filled with adrenalin following a twisty slip face down to our camp site and all the excitement of setting up camp and wondering what food we’ll be getting was chatting and getting to know one another. Well, the dinner was awesome and most went down early. At least we were lucky with out big group that there were no snorers...
Most of us did have an “ever so slight” loose stomach that night which was unpleasant, but soon passed. It was cool, but warm for what was to follow. As the days passed, we got better and more efficient at un and re packing the cars. As we neared the coast line, temperatures dropped to the degree that long underpants, jeans, t shirt, flannel shirt, fleece, jacket and beanie did not keep me warm..... Oh well, the company and wine (thanks CATS) made up for it. Also, every night we had a good fire and that did warm our spirits.
I think only two vehicles ended up not getting stuck. Stuck, means needing a pull to get out. We learnt the speeds needed to get up and over dunes. Also, what to do before getting “stuck”..
My heart dropped whilst Bruni was driving and she asked me why there is a green light blinking on the dash!!! Turns out that my Pajero’s gearbox went on the blink whilst approaching the coast. Satellite calls to various dealers all said to “please bring the vehicle to your nearest authorized dealer”!!!! My thoughts were along the lines of WTF....... Thanks a further satellite call to Spain from Kike (from Spain) to his friend in Spain who was a Mitsubishi race mechanic we knew what to do. Luckily my gearbox ended up “freezing” in 4x4 mode and we could continue without a hitch. See also my post in the gearbox section.
We loved it and (me anyway) would leave again tomorrow for another go at the desert. What did get to us all though, was the cold continuous wind that blew sand in and around everything. That was a bit much for everyone.
The trip ended in Walvis bay with some more beers, Jägermeisters and a good meal.

Desert used up some 165 odd litres od diesel (ssut under a 1/4 tank left) most of our water and we traveled 625 Km

Following some three days in Swakupmund (cleaning, car wash, car repairs, new tyre) we were ready to hit the road again off on the 322Km trip to Aba Huab and Twyfelfontein. We left Swakupmund and headed to Henties Bay. Personally, I don’t know what pulls people to that place, but each to their own, sorry, I’m not a fisherman... That’s where the tar ended and all roads from now were gravel. Good gravel that one could easily travel 100Km/hr on. Hoping though that one didn’t have a slower car to overtake as one would have tons of dust to swallow.
We set up camp and set off to Twyfelfontein (bad corrugated road) and looked at the rock engravings and paintings. It was a nice walk and our guide was knowledgeable too. Unfortunately we were a bit too late, otherwise i would have liked to explore the area a bit more. There are two guided walks and we only did one of them (though we did see some of the other walk)
The Aba Huab camp site is nice and clean. Ablution facilities weren’t the best, but a great camp site which is closer to the wild side. We found elephant spoor in the river bed and had game tracks (Kudu we think) in and around our campsite the next morning.

We stopped at the Petrified Forest. That was amazing, though difficult to believe that these petrified trunks are some 180 million years old stemming from the DRC region having been washed down from there and set in mud.....

Day 20,
From Aba Huab we set off for Palmwag. Once there, we took a instant liking to the place. If you ever go there ask for campsite 5 or 6. These have their own ablutions (something I like, though we only had cold water) consisting of shower basin and toilet with a view onto the river. Electricity is also available as well as a washing up basin. Shade and running water also there.
My Mom and Dad joined us there (though in a chalet) and spending most of their time sleeping. Both had the flu to the degree that we recommended that they drive back to Windhoek and fly back. When we pass through Windhoek on the way back, I could drive their Cruiser back to JHB, which we did.
We left Palmwag after two nights and headed on to the campsite called Ongongo just passed Warmquelle. We took a drive through the Palmwag conservancy where we Hyena, Springbok, Gemsbok, Giraffe and even Rhino spoor, though the Rhino and Elephants managed to elude us. A 4x4 is not required, but ground clearance is.
Ongongo camp site was a bit of a letdown. Dusty with so so ablutions. The spring however is wonderful and pleasant to swim in. The bar up top the hill has a magic view and nice cold beers.. the company was also nice with a guide having a Swiss group with him. A suggestion, ask for camp site 1 or 9 or 10. I think those are the nicest.
There is a hot spring in the town, Warmqulle, but we were advised that this is run down and dirty....

Distance 110Km.

Day 21
We left Ongongo and set off for Epupa falls. We stopped in Opuwo for fuel and groceries as well as fending off the beggars old and young. We were lucky and managed to buy more beers “under the counter” because we were a bit late. Note: shops close at 13:00 sharp and no alcohol may be sold after that.
On the road again, we set off for Epupa. We overtook a Land Rover and a Cruiser, only for them to overtake us when I had to stop with a puncture. The landy didn’t even slow down, but the Cruiser stopped. I said all was OK and they left, only to return deciding to help. Thanks Vaughn and his partner. Luckily I didn’t have to unpack one of the roof boxes to get the sticky plugs out. Vaughn had his handy and the puncture (though leaking again) was fixed quickly. We spent a long time swapping stories on the side of the road.
Epupa falls was lovely. We camped on the river’s edge and the ablutions are great. They are a maze of showers and toilets, clean and warm water. The pub is great too. Steffi found a new best friend. The managers had a three year old too and the two of them played well together.
We walked along the Kunene to get a great view of the falls. One can just imagine that the falls must be even more spectacular if they are in full flood. The days were hot and the evenings warm. Lovely weather and a great camp. The sound of the falls sounds good too.
We had sundowners at the camp site next door, called _______ What a great deck and again, cold beer.....

and again:)