Hi Guys
I have a very weird fuel gauge reading issue. The gauge either worked or not, and never gave consistent readings, so I put in a new one, and the issue remains.
I noticed that if I apply light pressure on the left corner of the dash display, my fuel gauge reads, but, still not consistent readings.
Any advice would be appreciated, however, replacing the instrument cluster is a last resort.
Thanks
B
Hi B,
Pls can you confirm your model Pajero. There is an issue with the eel Gen3 which usually affects temp gauge and/or fuel gauge. It is a small green PC board behind the instrument cluster which is the possible cause. Do a search for faultty temp gauge here for more details. The replacement from the dealer is around R1500 BUT it can clear your odometer reading. Some guys have had success just re-soldering the joints on the board.could also be problem cable and a few other things. From your detail and if a Zen3 I would suggest starting there.
Perhaps also give Freek snr from Mitspro a call, he knows the Paj very well.
Cheers
David
Pls can you confirm your model Pajero. There is an issue with the eel Gen3 which usually affects temp gauge and/or fuel gauge. It is a small green PC board behind the instrument cluster which is the possible cause. Do a search for faultty temp gauge here for more details. The replacement from the dealer is around R1500 BUT it can clear your odometer reading. Some guys have had success just re-soldering the joints on the board.could also be problem cable and a few other things. From your detail and if a Zen3 I would suggest starting there.
Perhaps also give Freek snr from Mitspro a call, he knows the Paj very well.
Cheers
David
Hi Bernard
I believe the pc board behind the dash sometimes gets a bad solder connection - it rattles and cracks loose - some other members have the same problem with the temperature gauge. A competant electrical repair shop should be able to re-solder all the loose connections and that should (hopefully) sort out the issue.
I had a similar problem with my LCD dash display with some digits not showing, I took it out and resoldered all the loose connections and all was well again!!
Good luck.
I believe the pc board behind the dash sometimes gets a bad solder connection - it rattles and cracks loose - some other members have the same problem with the temperature gauge. A competant electrical repair shop should be able to re-solder all the loose connections and that should (hopefully) sort out the issue.
I had a similar problem with my LCD dash display with some digits not showing, I took it out and resoldered all the loose connections and all was well again!!
Good luck.
Nicholas Gibson
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
Looks like david beat me to it - posted at the same time 
...
...Nicholas Gibson
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
Hi
I've got a similar issue on my Gen 3 LWB: the fuel guage reads more than it should - but only from a quarter tank and below (i.e. it can be practically empty but still read quarter tank), so I rely more on the trip counter. The LCD digits on the display are also dodgy.
How does one get to this circuit board to check solders/connections? Is it a case of removing parts of the dash or is it straightforward?
I've got a similar issue on my Gen 3 LWB: the fuel guage reads more than it should - but only from a quarter tank and below (i.e. it can be practically empty but still read quarter tank), so I rely more on the trip counter. The LCD digits on the display are also dodgy.
How does one get to this circuit board to check solders/connections? Is it a case of removing parts of the dash or is it straightforward?
Hi Donal
Have a look here https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... uge#p28239
I think this might be more aplicable to you, more than likely the reostat in the fuel tank has worn out on the lower 1/4 of the slide, maybe a clean would work.
Have a look here https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... uge#p28239
I think this might be more aplicable to you, more than likely the reostat in the fuel tank has worn out on the lower 1/4 of the slide, maybe a clean would work.
Nicholas Gibson
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
Its a 2002 LWB, and I suspect you are right, HOWEVER, I am not that good with a soldering iron.
Also I tried very delicately to remove the cct board, but, after removing the 5 or was it 6 screws, and the board would not come off, I did NOT force it.
Any suggestions ?? How many screws are there that need to be removed ??
Also I tried very delicately to remove the cct board, but, after removing the 5 or was it 6 screws, and the board would not come off, I did NOT force it.
Any suggestions ?? How many screws are there that need to be removed ??
Right, so its done!
Did the soldering today, and its working. Time will tell if its fixed though.
A note for anyone trying this, its relatively easy, HOWEVER, when replacing the PC board, you may find it necessary to remove the front clear perspex cover and lightly put some pressure on the sides of the km display to seat it properly into the PC board. If you don't do this, you may have issues with the speedo, as the digital display gets pushed forward and interferes with the speedo needle.
I have a pick or two, and will post tomorrow or sometime soon.
Did the soldering today, and its working. Time will tell if its fixed though.
A note for anyone trying this, its relatively easy, HOWEVER, when replacing the PC board, you may find it necessary to remove the front clear perspex cover and lightly put some pressure on the sides of the km display to seat it properly into the PC board. If you don't do this, you may have issues with the speedo, as the digital display gets pushed forward and interferes with the speedo needle.
I have a pick or two, and will post tomorrow or sometime soon.
Attached are the pictures as promised:
See the rear of the instrument cluster, bottom right where the PC board goes, and attached is the PC board.
All I did was remove the board and resolder all the solder joints I could get to and then replace. Look carefully at the PC board and see where it seats and press it in firmly from the front so that it does not interfere with the speedo.
Good luck !!
See the rear of the instrument cluster, bottom right where the PC board goes, and attached is the PC board.
All I did was remove the board and resolder all the solder joints I could get to and then replace. Look carefully at the PC board and see where it seats and press it in firmly from the front so that it does not interfere with the speedo.
Good luck !!
Attachments:
So, all the soldering and taking out, cleaning and replacing the fuel gauge did NOT work. I replaced the fuel and temperature cluster as well, to no avail. I finally replaced the PC board, and the gauge is working. I have only been testing it for a day, but, time will tell.
I was reluctant to do the PC board as my KM reading started at Zero, so I have a brand new 2002 DID
Does anyone know where in the Cape Town area, someone can correct the KM reading for me. Your help would be appreciated.
I also have a fuel and temperature gauge module looking for a new home. I will post a pic sometime. Any offer accepted, and it is in working order.
I was reluctant to do the PC board as my KM reading started at Zero, so I have a brand new 2002 DID
Does anyone know where in the Cape Town area, someone can correct the KM reading for me. Your help would be appreciated.
I also have a fuel and temperature gauge module looking for a new home. I will post a pic sometime. Any offer accepted, and it is in working order.