Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

After damaging my paper thin factory bash plates on a botswana trip last year I decided to replace the plates with a lynx intercooler and gearbox plate.

In installation I found that 1 of the bolts was badly damaged. The guys installing the plates supplied a new bolt, and we're able to 'clear' the thread of the nut on the body by tapping it with the same size.

However, on my recent trip I found that two other bolts / nuts have also been stripped - they were probably over tightened as they do grip a bit, but turn fairly easily without end.

My question is, what should I do as the standard bolts seem to be easily damaged / over tightened.

Should I first try to retread the current nuts to a larger bolt size? Or should have have the current nuts removed and have the same sized ones welded back on?

I have a similar problem. I looked at the option of longer bolts with a second nut on top of the old damaged one. The problem is those nuts are inside the chassis leg and just about impossible to get to. I don't think removing them and welding new ones in is a option. You just cant get in there. So all that remains is to drill out and tap to a next size.

Same problem....no solution. However, I haven't looked for a solution yet, first have to get cash for a new bash plate. Lost my factory plate somewhere....no idea where.

Same problem....no solution. However, I haven't looked for a solution yet, first have to get cash for a new bash plate. Lost my factory plate somewhere....no idea where.

Don't give up.

If you can't re-tap to the original size there are some products along the lines of liquid steel that allow you to recreate the threaded portion.

Here is one product, but they are not the only one available:
Permatex® Stripped Thread Repair Kit

Much better to get back to using the standard size bolts rather than going oversize if you can.

Also take out each of the healthy bolts and use a bit of copper based anti-seize grease to prevent them rusting up.

This is some awesome and valuable info!!

Do you reckon it would be strong enough to hold these heavy lynx bashplates (30kg+) - the specs reckon 128 ft. lbs. of torque... not sure how that translates to the forces that act on the thread from bumps and shocks...

Also, where would I be able to buy this permatex stuff? Autozone? Midas?

Gemaskerde Tuinvurk wrote:This is some awesome and valuable info!!

Do you reckon it would be strong enough to hold these heavy lynx bashplates (30kg+) - the specs reckon 128 ft. lbs. of torque... not sure how that translates to the forces that act on the thread from bumps and shocks...

Also, where would I be able to buy this permatex stuff? Autozone? Midas?

Remember that if you are worried about strength then you can use a thread insert like Heli Coil / Time-Sert. Here is an example: Stripped threads on Oil pan repair

Both Permatex and Loctite (and probably others) make thead forming liquids. You can certainly buy Loctite and Permatex brands at Builders Warehouse, Autozone etc. - Not sure if they will have this specific product line - else I would expect engineering suppliers to stock.

Helicoil official agents in South Africa are: FAS (Pty) Ltd, Unit A1 Wesrihan Park
160 Venturi Crescent Hennopspark, Centurion
Phone +27 12 653 7510

Guys, please be careful with Loctite. There must be 50 odd loctite products on the market and each one with its own use.
Most however are used to "lock" the threads. To unlock one needs heat and force. Not so lekker with the little nuts welded to the chassis.
I also have the same problem. In those areas where I could get too, there is a second nut.

I find the dealers find it easier to remove the whole plate to do an oilchange instead of just removing the little plate to drain the oil. Mine is fixed with Hex head bolts, and the dealers dont have allan keys as tools......
Lastly, after every service, I have to retighten the bolts.....