DIY - Gen2 Inner CV boot
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:44 am
spray tierod and a-arm balljoints with penetrating oil spray and leave overnight
Loosen wheel nuts Jack up car and support on struts
Take the wheel off
take the dustcap off
take the shaft circlip off
take cotter pins off the 3 balljoints
loosen 3 balljoint nuts but leave screwed on at least half the thread to catch the removal of the joints
remove 2 bolts holding brake caliper
move caliper out of the way and tie up with string - DO NOT let it hang by the brake line.
remove tierod balljoint with puller or 2m leverage and 70kg followed by a smack with a big hammer
jack up lower control arm and hit bottom balljoint with a big hammer to get bottom balljoint out
OR
use puller leverage top a-arm down and smack top balljoint with big hammer to get top balljoint loose
knuckle can now come out. a slight pull on the green part will let the rest of the shaft out.
disassemble ( pretty easy to figure out ) and clean with diesel. - I didn't take the balls out as they were still tightly seated ( but spun freely )
clean really good re-assemble working clean but applying liberal amounts of proper CV grease - usually dark grey in colour. I used my fingers to squeze in between the ball cage and then packed it FULL of grease. Put everything back together.
Clean the balljoint threads with a rag. Tighten to torque specs work your way up the torque specs - I incremented in 15Nm values. That way you can feel if the bolt is just stretching before reaching torque. That is when you should stop. don't keep tightening if you don't reach torque. If you are close then that's fine.
Pictures below
The previous bloke put the wrong grease in - none the less the cage had no play in it. Mitsu really uses a high grade steel.
Loosen wheel nuts Jack up car and support on struts
Take the wheel off
take the dustcap off
take the shaft circlip off
take cotter pins off the 3 balljoints
loosen 3 balljoint nuts but leave screwed on at least half the thread to catch the removal of the joints
remove 2 bolts holding brake caliper
move caliper out of the way and tie up with string - DO NOT let it hang by the brake line.
remove tierod balljoint with puller or 2m leverage and 70kg followed by a smack with a big hammer
jack up lower control arm and hit bottom balljoint with a big hammer to get bottom balljoint out
OR
use puller leverage top a-arm down and smack top balljoint with big hammer to get top balljoint loose
knuckle can now come out. a slight pull on the green part will let the rest of the shaft out.
disassemble ( pretty easy to figure out ) and clean with diesel. - I didn't take the balls out as they were still tightly seated ( but spun freely )
clean really good re-assemble working clean but applying liberal amounts of proper CV grease - usually dark grey in colour. I used my fingers to squeze in between the ball cage and then packed it FULL of grease. Put everything back together.
Clean the balljoint threads with a rag. Tighten to torque specs work your way up the torque specs - I incremented in 15Nm values. That way you can feel if the bolt is just stretching before reaching torque. That is when you should stop. don't keep tightening if you don't reach torque. If you are close then that's fine.
Pictures below
The previous bloke put the wrong grease in - none the less the cage had no play in it. Mitsu really uses a high grade steel.