First post, and a long one. I'd like to showcase my battery box design and would appreciate it if you could possibly point out something I've missed (despite the obvious wood = fire hazard!!).
First, the setup:
1. I wanted something that would fit into my Paj nicely for those long camping trips. It would need to be removable as I sometimes don't get the opportunity to park my truck next to my tent, and I HATE walking for cold beer unless it's the zombie apocalypse or similar - I'm running an ARB 47l fridge.
2. My girlfriend needs to be online ALL THE TIME during working hours, and loadshedding has caused major strain. So, something easy to operate, portable again (seeing as she lives at her own place a lot of the time), and slightly aesthetic.
So, after much Googling I decided on the following:
CTEK D250S for the solar input option.
300W inverter for those 220V moments.
Solbian flexible 120W solar panel - light at around 2 kg, and pretty efficient.
After looking at all the bits for around 4 days, and playing with various layout I eventually settled on the following layout for the electronics:

Everything is mounted on a single board, which is slotted into the battery box. The whole assembly can be removed if necessary with minimum effort (9 screws) and slid out.
I had to find a way to hook up the damn inverter which would push it up against the top plate firmly, and eventually came up with the idea of using cable ties, fed through custom made hooks on the top lid. It's not ideal, but seems to do the job - I didn't want to mess around with disassembling the inverter.
I also did not want to cut the CTEK sensor wire down, so I just coiled it and tagged it down.
Top view of the panel, quick test to check everything worked:

I then tested it with the solar panel attached - the CTEK fired up and did it's job. I ran it on and off over a period of 4 days to check if there was any major heat given off by the CTEK, which I did not really expect, DC-DC being pretty efficient.
I also checked the inverter out, ran it at full load for 6 hours. Surprisingly, it runs pretty cool, and did not cut out after 4 hours as the manufacturer specs say. Bonus.
Onto the box. Here's the initial pic:

I had to cut a slot for air inflow for the inverter (as it has it's own built-in fan). I also, just to be on the safe side, added another fan cutout in case things got hot during charging.
I also realised I would need some sort of way of checking the CTEK status in case of error, so I cut a window into the box front and closed it off with a bit of perspex.
Finally, put everything together:

I still need to finish the lid and handle. Will probably have a little hinged lid over the panel. I cut out the section in front of the plugs so the lid can stay closed during any DC action. With the inverter running, however, the lid would need to be open to allow airflow through the inverter, so if there was any cable attached to the 220V socket, the lid would be forced to stay open.
I put in a 50A fuse from the +ve terminal which allows me to do current checks, besides being a fuse

The fan I've connected up to a voltage level sensor (simple opamp circuit): if the voltage at the terminals goes over 13V, the fan switches on. I surmised that the most current would be drawn for charging when the alternator was running, so that would probably be the time when I would most likely need cooling of some sort.
The last thing I need to do is test it in my truck - I'm still trying to figure out how the hell to run a cable from the main battery to the boot through the bodywork. Any ideas here would be most appreciated!
Now that I've got this done, the next trick is to build my packing system around it, probably very similar to SimonB's setup, but will a few mods of my own.
So, any comments or suggestions? Anything I've forgotten?
Cheers!
EB.