Yesterdat I went to HI-Q Dastek to replace tyres and do wheel alignment.
The owner was there and he had them do the alligment before fitting the new tires.
He said once you lift the car to fit the wheels it takes +- 20km for the suspension to settle again causing the allignment be wrong if done after lifting the car
Anybody else have experiance with this ?
I must say its the first time that the allignment actually feels right to me, and I ve done the alligment 3 times before yesterday.
They did struggle almost 20 minutes to loosen everything to be able to do the adjustments.
I think if the owner did not watch they might have given up allot earlier and would have just told me its all OK.
I think if the owner did not watch they might have given up allot earlier and would have just told me its all OK.
Makes sense if you think about it.
CATS
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
CATS
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
pfg and other owners,
A long time ago I added my little stream to the toe-in caster and camber discussion. Herewith the gist of that:
a. Check that the bottom bolts that connect the control arms to the front cross member and the rear suspension carrier are not rusted solid. If the technician can not turn them, he will not care about that specific setting and will only adjust the remainder. On my Pajero the agents had to use an angle grinder to cut the bolts between the arms and the suspension carrier and battled for some tome to get the front bolts out to replace them.
b. When you go for a caster,camber and toe-in adjustment, join the technician in the pit. The correct setting is NOT somewhere in the green arc but in the centre of the arc. Whilst I was still a "slave" I took a day's leave to join the techy in the pit to get the adjustments perfect.
c. Some technicians will tell you that he makes some extra adjustment to compensate for the road camber as well as for the owners that drive mostly without passengers and for worn tires. That is utter nonsense. Adjust the CCA to Pajero specks (in the centre mr venter) and your Pajero will be 100%
Cloyd
A long time ago I added my little stream to the toe-in caster and camber discussion. Herewith the gist of that:
a. Check that the bottom bolts that connect the control arms to the front cross member and the rear suspension carrier are not rusted solid. If the technician can not turn them, he will not care about that specific setting and will only adjust the remainder. On my Pajero the agents had to use an angle grinder to cut the bolts between the arms and the suspension carrier and battled for some tome to get the front bolts out to replace them.
b. When you go for a caster,camber and toe-in adjustment, join the technician in the pit. The correct setting is NOT somewhere in the green arc but in the centre of the arc. Whilst I was still a "slave" I took a day's leave to join the techy in the pit to get the adjustments perfect.
c. Some technicians will tell you that he makes some extra adjustment to compensate for the road camber as well as for the owners that drive mostly without passengers and for worn tires. That is utter nonsense. Adjust the CCA to Pajero specks (in the centre mr venter) and your Pajero will be 100%
Cloyd
On mine they took 20 minutes to loosen the rear - wasent rusted but properly stuck.cloyd wrote: a. Check that the bottom bolts that connect the control arms to the front cross member and the rear suspension carrier are not rusted solid.
The front had some rust and they suggested that I come back - sounded like they are also looking at a girder bases solution.
Thats what happened the previous 2 times I did the wheel alignmentcloyd wrote: If the technician can not turn them, he will not care about that specific setting and will only adjust the remainder.
pfg,
My advice will be: get new bolts and nuts, have them plated and replace the old bolts and add a good dollop of copper slip when assembling. Use a small round metal (copper) brush to remove the rust in the sleeves. Getting them to grind the bolts will just make it worse in the longer term. 20 minutes battle to remove a/the bolt(s) is a sure indication of rust and remember both the bolts and the metal sleeves rust.
It is not a difficult DIY job.
Cloyd
My advice will be: get new bolts and nuts, have them plated and replace the old bolts and add a good dollop of copper slip when assembling. Use a small round metal (copper) brush to remove the rust in the sleeves. Getting them to grind the bolts will just make it worse in the longer term. 20 minutes battle to remove a/the bolt(s) is a sure indication of rust and remember both the bolts and the metal sleeves rust.
It is not a difficult DIY job.
Cloyd